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#1 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Central CA
Posts: 4,380
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Ride: 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Rep Power: 83
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It seems like ever since i did a regular tune up on my rex, it misses around 3000 rpm. Its only when i hold it around there or i'm accelerating slowly, not when i'm driving normally. There are only two things i can think of that might be the problem- either i didn't gap the plugs right, or the dist. rotor doesn't work, since i didn't change it cuz it's fuckin hard. maybe those things don't have anything to do with it, i don't know. BTW my motor is the D15 and has about 190,000 miles.
thanks __________________
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#2 |
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Senior Member
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well i think its your dis. coil..plus there a spring in your dis. that sometimes jumps...check your dis. coil if that dont work try checkin your plugs and make sure there in the right place...my EX did the samething...would jump and spurter around 4k..hope this helps ya out man..
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#3 |
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Senior Member
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same problem here and i've been asking about this for awhile, no replies so far.
i have a CEL for IAV sensor and I'm not sure if it has to do with anything. anyone else had this problem? __________________
<a href=\'http://www.hondaswap.com/gallery/browse.php?album_id=521\' target=\'_blank\'>2.0L naturally aspirated goodness</a> Georgia Institute of Technology Class of 2004 |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Southern California
Age: 29
Posts: 1,613
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Ride: 94 Integra GSR
Rep Power: 31
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Well shit ill jump on the bandwagon too, when im at part throtle or accelerating slowly i get the same thing like its missing, but if i nail it, it clears right up and drives fine, if anyone knows please help me, its pissing me off.
__________________
1994 Acura Integra GSR Power: AEM V2 Cold Air Intake GReddy 4-2-1 Header GReddy Evo 2 Exhaust Suspension: Tanabe Sustec Pro S-0C |
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#6 | |
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Senior Member
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does this mean i could check/fix it myself? or have it rebuilt/buy a new one? its a bitch to drive with the problem, when i dont pay attention i get that jerking with the clutch engaged.....feels like the engine's gonna rip out of the mounts. thanks! I've always thought it was one of my CEL's because I have CELs up the wazoo. __________________
<a href=\'http://www.hondaswap.com/gallery/browse.php?album_id=521\' target=\'_blank\'>2.0L naturally aspirated goodness</a> Georgia Institute of Technology Class of 2004 |
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#7 |
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Senior Member
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Try putting some of them electric grease on all the electrical connection.
At the ignition coil connector (the + and - wires), coil spring, plug wire boot terminal, spark plug termial connector.... anywhere that has an open metal connection. Had the same proplems too, did this an it fixed it. __________________
96 LX 4dr. with B18a, PR3 pistons, B16 head w/ port 'n polish to intake, CTR intake/exhaust cams, ITR IM, CTR TB, Hondata IM gasket, RC 310cc injectors, Denso Iridum plugs, Skunk2 valve springs/retainers, Excedy race clutch, ACT streetlight flywheel, Walbro 255 fuel pump, GSR tranny, and Tanabe Super Racing Medalion...., next is Header and VAFC. Best run on 1320: 14.5 @ 94.5mph street tires 14.4 @ 94mph small slicks :P 98 Yamaha R1 |
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#8 |
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Banned
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change your rotor! my crx was missing at and above 3k for about 2 weeks, then i changed the cap and rotor...and that fixed it. should also change your spark plug wires.
if the gaps on your plugs are too big, it will just kill your engine's power and make it feel really sluggish. |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
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another question from the electrical idiot:
are there any differences between OEM rotors/cap, aftermarket (autozone) rotors/cap, and say MSD and Crane stuff? I understand MSD and Crane caps have a extra plug for their coil blasters or whatever its called, and I understand it's not needed unless I am pushing holy amount of power out of the 1.6 where my spark isn't enough. I always thought it was just a BS upgrade for the average hondas, much like the fuel rails. also, noobvang, i know where the + and - are, but what does a coil spring look like? I've never had the guts to mess around with a distributor, those things are kinda expensive. thanks for all the help. __________________
<a href=\'http://www.hondaswap.com/gallery/browse.php?album_id=521\' target=\'_blank\'>2.0L naturally aspirated goodness</a> Georgia Institute of Technology Class of 2004 |
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#10 |
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Senior Member
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rixxxceboy,
I (and the other 2 members) are only missing around 3000 under very light throttle. I can drive around all the time with more than 50% throttle and it never misses. do you think it could be the cap & rotors? i'm a little excited because all the dumbass shops around here have no idea what's wrong, they kept telling me its the fuel system, now i can finally get it fixed ![]() __________________
<a href=\'http://www.hondaswap.com/gallery/browse.php?album_id=521\' target=\'_blank\'>2.0L naturally aspirated goodness</a> Georgia Institute of Technology Class of 2004 |
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#11 |
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Senior Member
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The coil spring is the one that acutally touches with the dist. cap. It should be located at the end of the extending arm from the coil.
Change the cap and rotors first. Then if it still does this, then use my method. __________________
96 LX 4dr. with B18a, PR3 pistons, B16 head w/ port 'n polish to intake, CTR intake/exhaust cams, ITR IM, CTR TB, Hondata IM gasket, RC 310cc injectors, Denso Iridum plugs, Skunk2 valve springs/retainers, Excedy race clutch, ACT streetlight flywheel, Walbro 255 fuel pump, GSR tranny, and Tanabe Super Racing Medalion...., next is Header and VAFC. Best run on 1320: 14.5 @ 94.5mph street tires 14.4 @ 94mph small slicks :P 98 Yamaha R1 |
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#12 | |
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Super Moderator
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__________________
2005 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 8 2004 BMW 325i 2000 Mercedes Benz ML 430 1994 Honda Civic Del Sol VTEC (race kaa) |
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#14 | |
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Banned
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