MthaFuknGreen

thats what ive been doing wrong!
lol
not.

im not sure if my drill would be much stronger, but ill try that too.

YBLEGAL

i just know my dewalt drill owns a dremel hard core. found that out easily when trying to cut steel braided brake line.

maybe try an insanely fortified breaker bar and longer pipe as phyregod also said?

MthaFuknGreen

i dont know where a longer pipe is..
and i dont think i have enough to buy a new one.

but yeah, my dads dewalt is a fucking beast.
i just have a black and decker firestorm kit(with the sander and jigsaw and drill, im a wood worker..lol).
the only reason i even have that is because it was 20 bucks at goodwill.

95b18c1eg

look broham i don't know what your weight is but im 190 and my fat ass on a three foot bar couldn't get it! so i called my 265 buddy to jump on it. had to have been at 600 ft lbs.

MthaFuknGreen

lol.
i only weight like 180.
i been trying to squat the bar though, pushing it up instead of jumping on it.
cuz i can squat well over 300 lbs, and since the torque specs are only 135 ft lbs, i dont understand why its not moving.
fucking stubborn nuts.

about the heat, changing the properties..
i was only using a small propane torch, is that still enough to change the properties?

YBLEGAL

if your not making it red hot it's not changing the properties (it will be non magnetic when it's reached this temperature). but if your not making it red hot it's not doing anything to break the corrosion anyway.

reckl3ss

Did for me

YBLEGAL

Ok well from what I've read, and my experience with the torx bolts that hold the rear disk spindle to the trailing arm it mattered. This one bolt in particular didn't want to come out. The surrounding surface being hot didn't matter, only when I got it red hot.

stevennn09

than you're gunna want to use a pry bar. wedge it in between the axle hub and the transmission. have someone putting a small amount of force on the axle and the wheel hub to stop the cv from seperating. than slowly work the axle out of the trans. it would be easiest to do with your strut//spring being removed. than have the person pull on the hub, towards them, while they're holding with the other hand the axle to keep it in the cv joint itslef not to hyper extend the axle, because if you do you will mostliely never get the axle back together wihtout it being a pain in tha ass. you should also be pushing towards them to keep pressure on the axle and in moments you should have a free axle//spindle assembly. set it somewhere where it's not gunna get kicked around or anything. i'd put cardboard underneath your rotor as well. btw with the caliper since you have to remove it make sure that you have something holding it up and it's not just dangling there.


i got that pic from hondtech incase it's anyones car or anything.

__________________
heavens not a place that you go when you die it's that moment in life when you actually feel alive, so live for the moment now.

phyregod

OK. Erase from your mind everything you think you know and all of the options that you have explored.

There is a proper way to do this, and there is a proper tool for the job. Using this method will not damage your car in any way whatsoever and is actually recommended by Honda themselves.

Its called a breaker bar. Go borrow one, Check out auto zone's loan-a-tool program. Hit the local pawn shops. I know you said you don't have any money, but you should be able to pick up a nice one for $20-40. You should be able to come up with $40 somehow..

Just go do it, before you damage a $60 axle and end up having to buy a breaker bar later in life for something else anyway. Its just one of those tools you should have around.

__________________

nootrac22

is the axle still good? do you plan on putting the same axle back in the car when you're done?

cjvictoria

shyte i have a black and decker grinder that came with a cutting wheel, got that shit for thirty bucks at wal mart.. go check out wal mart!

MthaFuknGreen

have no way to come up with money until the end of the month.

yes

dont have 30 bucks or a ride to walmart.

lol

and the point of the heat isnt to remove the corrosion on the nut, its to draw the p.b. penetrating fluid into the nut, which will remove the corrosion.

YBLEGAL

Does that work??? Heat will draw the PB in?

Never heard that. Did read and was told heating breaks the corrosion with the expansion of the metal

phyregod

Actually, the point of the heat is to expand the metal of the nut, thereby loosening it.

|Chaz|

Don't you have a jack? Does the handle come off of the jack? If it does put the end of the jack handle over the handle of the socket wrench. That'll be more than enough leverage...

MthaFuknGreen

chaz, read a little more of the thread..
ive answered this question a few times already.

|Chaz|

Sorry, I don't have the patience to read through 90 posts about how you can't figure out how to get a nut off. You're just lucky I wasn't feeling like a smartass and post a link to some porn.

cjvictoria

how is that a smartass thing to do?? oh wait i get it, get a nut off lol

MthaFuknGreen

well, apparently you cant figure out how to get it off either.
cuz that didnt work.

|Chaz|

Actually if it was me I'd already have it off. I would have gone and bought the tool necessary to get the bolt off already...

MthaFuknGreen

well come down and get it off for me then..
lol

newb

I still don't understand how this is soo hard to do. Ok, you don't have the money for tools. You don't have neighbors? You can't borrow tools? Do you have any big box end wrenchs? If so, put the biggest box end you have over the end of your ratchet. It'll give you leverage, I do it quite often.

YBLEGAL

if you dont have tools, dont begin the job. now ur stuck, scrape up money for a strong breaker bar and a pipe.

|Chaz|

It's MthaFuknGreen, what do you expect?