95 Integra Idle Problems *small reward*

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millsd4

New Member
I know everyone and their dog has a post about idle problems, and ive probably read 95% of them. My car is bouncing up and down during idle, only when its warm. I cleaned my idle air controller, put on a differnt one (used one that was also cleaned, makes no differnce.

I cleaned the FITV and this made no differnce (cleaned it so nice it looked like new :)

Took it to the radiator shop and had the coolant system flushed (nasty stuff came out) and he bled it very very good, but still didnt fix it.

I can unplug the iacv and pull the throttle enough to keep it going, but it still jumps.

Checked for vacuum leaks, replaced all the vacuum lines, put hand over throttle body to choke it off, and it died (multiple people say this means no vacuum leaks)

PCV valve is not cracked and seems to work great.

Brand new distributer cap, spark plug wires, and iridium plugs.

AND im not throwing a check engine code.

Now it does idle really low, and as a temperary fix i just tightened the throttle, could the idle screw be turned so low and be causing this?

Also when the throttle is not pulled tight and i put the clutch on, the idle drops way down (lowest mark on rpm gauge) and then goes up a bit and continues to jump.

Im wondering what to check next, fuel system? Map sensor? TPS? valve lash? timing?

Im to the point that whoever can tell me what to check next and it solves the problem i'll send 10 dollars through paypal.
 
throttle body colant bypass did it to me...its under you t/b radiater fluid runs thriugh it from the iacv to the head..i eliminated mine and now mine idles perfect...if anything right start your car witht he intake off.. nad while the cars running put your finger over the lower hole in the t/b and if it stops then its the tbcb....then youll be 100% sure
 
so im still having problems, but i figured out when i rev it up and let off the gas, it never comes to the same idle point, sometimes it will go to 500 and them back up to 800 and jump, sometimes it will stop at 1400 and jump up and down any ideas? the throttle cable itself comes to the same tension but idle fluctuates.
 
Had this issue... you gotta disconnect the EACV (its a little cable plugged into the throttle body, then start it, the idle should fluctuate.) Then what you have to do is adjust the idle screw to about 700 then shut it off. Then you have to plug that EACV back in and then disconnect that 7.5 fuse for a min or 2 then put it back in. Turn the car back on with rear defrost on and high beams and AC on high. The idle should be stable. If it is not stable, disconnect the EACV again and then leave the rest of the stuff on and adjust again. Reconnect EACV disconnect fuse. If it continues after this you probably have too much of a load on your alternator. If that is the case you can find this out by disconnecting the battery while running. It should stay running. (I bet you have a system eh? If you have a system turn it on if it stays running) If it stays runing and idles around 1200 then you should be okay. If it revs up and down your brushes are goin out in the alt. If it dies...well.... Yea.
 
map sensor!!!! try a new one you never said what kind of car you have or anyhing that alwasys helps
 
I have a 95 gsr and I was going through the same thing for some time. My idle was unbelievably low.. and sounded like it was going to die the entire time I drove it. I went to hell and back before simply changing the fuel filter... It's been a few days since I changed it and it's been fine since.

Jinx :(
 
Let me know if you find the answer to that and i find it I'll let you know. I have a 91 integra i had a dead hole and burned vavles and a bowed rod; any way i got a full rebuild done on it and my idle is the same way, it's so bad it cut's out. it might be the fresh rebuild. but before that is idled 1500 now i idle 650 or less the thing is think is that i have all this work done and all bolt-ons ECU i haven't go chiped yet.i have an honda s200 but i need a obd to a obd1 converson. When i get that done i'll let u know the status but if you already have your computer done then forget i said anything. I'll keep troubleshooting i'll let you know
 
This sounds a lot like a throttle plate and TPS issue.

Hook up your multimeter to the TPS with the car not running, but in the ON position. Now, find the wire from the tps that has about .5V on it. If it's not exact, don't worry. There's a little screw/bolt combo under/around the throttle pulley, adjust that until the multimeter reads .49V with the throttle plate fully closed.

THEN set the idle accordingly:
Unplug your IACV (or equivalent) and turn the little screw/stud (With the engine running) on the throttle body until you get 450RPM. Turn the car off, and reset the ECU. Now plug the IACV in, and enjoy your (now correct) idle.



This may be a little skinny on details, but if you find a good manual, it'll help.
 
The thread starter hasn't posted in here for over two months now guys. I'm pretty sure he probably figured out what the problem was by now, you damn reward scavengers, lol...
 
i just did that to know if the guy knew what he was doing but thx for the advice and yeah f*** the reward lol
 
ben there done that

ive got a 90 teg i thought it was the iac also but iread a repair manual and my car has a F.I.T. valve(fast idle thermo valve) for cold start under the throttle body! i took a piece of gasket material and blcked it off! i havent had the problem since and its been about a year now...im not sure if ur car has that but it should so maybe try that let me know if it works peace bro ziggyb20b@yahoo.com
 
I got the same problem and i found these on a teg tips page, it work for me

Remove your distributor cap. If you still have the dist shield in place under the cap, then you will have to remove the rotor, and the shield. If your shield is already gone, you do not need to remove the rotor. When looking down onto the distributor, you will see the coil, the rotor, and some wires leading to a small, brown thing. This is the igniter. There will be 4 connections. 1 on the side, and 3 on top. Honda uses spade connectors to make these connections to the igniter. Remove, and work on only ONE CONNECTOR AT A TIME. Take each connector, and with it removed from the igniter, place it in the needle-nose pliers and crimp down a little tighter on the spade connector. Then put a dab of dielectric grease inside the spade connector. Then put the connector back on the igniter. The connection should be very tight. Do this with all the connections to the igniter. Replace the rotor (if you removed it) and then the cap. Then, under the fuse panel under the hood, remove the ECU and Hazard fuses for about 60 seconds. Replace both, and restart the car WITHOUT touching the gas. Let it run for 60 seconds without ANY accessories on. Then after 60 seconds, turn ALL the accessories on and let it run for 60 seconds. Turn the car off, restart it, and go have fun.
 
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