EE9 civic with b16b swap

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GoThanh

New Member
I wonder if a EE9 civic that has b16a engine if it is possible to swap a B16B into it. Or is it easier to change the cam and camgears from the b16a to gain same power as b16b.. because i live in the netherlands and most civic DOHC vtec has high mileage.. and im planning to buy a EF9 that has a good chassis and swap/replace the engine with b16a or b16b.. any advice?
 
I not 100% sure, but I think theyre the same. the mounts might be different, but the ones that are already in the ee9 for the b16a should bolt right up to the brackets on the b16b. its not always the cams that make the power, everything is built to work together when it comes the certain things, so unless your going to be doing more extensive mods than just the basic i/h/e, it just might be better (a cleaner swap with more bhp) to go with the b16b. plus on another note, the b16b redlines at 9k so you probably wouldnt get the most out of just swapping the cams.
 
Yea im mostly worried about the mounts.. cause i dont feeling like changing the mounts.. or would it be easier in an Eg6 instead of an EE9.. but im surely buying a civic VTI DOHC vtec model for easiest swap..
 
so you want to put a b16b in a car with a b16a? if so im 99.9% positive they are the exact same engine, the difference is cams and cr. so it will work
 
you'll need to do some wiring, mainly convert to OBD2, change injector clips, remove injector resistor and move the map sensor wiring. the mounts however will bolt right up. however for the money that b16b ecu and trans (and yes you will want the trans that goes with this motor, it's highly revered as the best b-series vtec trans in existence) would cost, you could do a fresh rebuild with some higher compression pistons and some civic type r cams and still have money left over. i'd go the rebuild route (you need to factor in the cost of wiring as well as the cost of the engine/trans/ecu) then use the rest on making it breathe better (intake header and exhaust) then have it tunned. you'll probably make more power with less money and have a freshly rebuilt motor in the process.
 
So you would recommend me buying just a new b16a and rebuild it? Cause i have to get a new engine since in the netherlands most b16a has a mileage of 130 miles.. which is like so old and not reliable.. and yea i don't know any company in the netherlands or in europe who imports JDM engines that has low mileages.. It's so easy in the US but here its so rare to see good civics with b16a... anyways thanks a lot for the advice and tips.. anything more would be appreciated XD
 
well you said you plan to buy a EF with the B16 correct? if that's the case, rebuild that one. unless it has the b-series already in it, you'll need a mount kit and even more wiring, so i wouldn't recommend buying a non-vtec EF. there's no reason that a 130k mile honda motor would be un-rebuildable. the machine shop doing the rebuild would let you know if, for any reason, that was the case, however these motors when maintained properly will have very little wear outside of the cylinder bores, which you will have honed for your new pistons anyhow.
 
i forgot that the compression of the B16B is higher then normal.. does it mean that it runs with octane 98 or even higher? Cause i've heard that japan has octane 101 thats for JDM engines.. or will the B16B run fine with octane 98... well in the netherlands it's called euro 98 ongelood.. or aren't there any problems in the US about gas..
 
our highest pump gas octane is 91 where i live, and my b16 runs about 11.6 compression. you'll be fine there with 98.
 
A B16A and B16B are not the same engine. The B16B uses the B18C block, which is 7mm taller than a B16A block. The B16B also has higher compression and teflon coated pistons, along with a factory P&P, and different cams and valves. The throttle body and header are the same on the B16A and B16B, so the difference is all in the internals.

For more info, check out this link: http://asia.vtec.net/beystock/honda/civicr/

I'm sure I've missed some other differences, those were just the ones I could pull off the top of my head.
 
right, however we didn't say they were the same. only that the mounting points where. obviously internally they are different, or honda wouldn't have sold any Type-R's.... as for being 7mm taller, the hood on any vtec CRX (with a FACTORY b16, not your swapped rex just to clarify) will clear that extra height (it's the hood sold as a "SiR" in the USA.)
 
I've read about gas octane.. it seems in the US they use PON methode which is avg between RON and MON... so the 93 octane in the US is 98 in europe.. so i guess the JDM b16b would run fine with it if you guys say 93 is fine.. but will it be 185 HP because i still think that in japan they use even higher octane gas.. and as for the engine mounts if they are the same as b16a it's not a big deal if the block is a bit higher..

i've just been to Time attack in Zandvoort.. i saw an EK9 with b16b.. looked interested i could upload some pics later..
 
even if you elect to not buy a ef with a factory b16, you can modify the hood on the non-vtec models to clear the added height. a small amount of trimming of the ribbing on the underside of the hood is all it takes. dont worry about the hood, the wiring is the hardest part if your ef doesn't come with a b16 stock. and even that is no problem once you familiarize yourself with the search function.
 
BrokenRex said:
right, however we didn't say they were the same. only that the mounting points where. obviously internally they are different, or honda wouldn't have sold any Type-R's.... as for being 7mm taller, the hood on any vtec CRX (with a FACTORY b16, not your swapped rex just to clarify) will clear that extra height (it's the hood sold as a "SiR" in the USA.)
Click to expand...
I'm even having clearance issues with my setup: Innovative mounts and a VIS USDM SiR hood. I had to trim part of the ribbing to clear the front driver's side corner of the valve cover. Also, I'm getting very minor interference with the hood and the top distributor mount. It's just enough to scratch the hood, but they are not staying in constant contact.
 
that's odd, as my b16 swap into my rex with OEM hood has no clearance issues whatsoever. i used hasport mounts, but yours are identical to them.... maybe it's just the design of the hood? i'll offer up a cheap effective solution to your problem though, and it wont cost you more than $5. washers... get five of them (or multiples of five if you intend to use more than one per bolt) and unbolt both the driver and passenger side engine mounts (leave the rear one on, as shimming that one isn't necessary) and put those washers under the mounts. this will move the engine down to a small degree, but should be enough if the hood isn't touching at all times.
 
Thanks for the suggestion...I resolved the issue by making a relief cut in the ribbing where it was contacting the valve cover.

The car, when it had a B16A2 w/ HAsport mounts in it, had the stock hood with no issues. I believe the Innovative mounts place the engine a little higher in the bay than HAsports, and in combination with the taller engine...necessitates the use of a SiR style hood.
 
the b16b has a taller block from a b16a the cams are better than those on an a ,it has olso doubble velve springs all round the valves. I see it like a b16a can never be a b16b.
 
The b16b is a stunning motor. Stick it in your car and it'll be fine. It may be tight under the bonnet but you'll cope. You can always shim it up a couple of mm. You don't need to convert it to obd2 either. I ran mine perfectly well on obd0. Tune it with bre and you'll do fine.

Oh, and the engine mounts will all be fine except the one on the drrivers side (US driver's side) will need to be changed for the b16b one. It bolts onto the block using the same mounting bolts as the b16a but the b16b one goes forward instead of backwards (or the other way round - it's been a while since I swapped mine in)
 
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