Since I'm a Noob..

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Matts96HB

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I just bought a "Chipped OBD1 ECU" from a dude on here. I'm not really that familiar with the inside of an ECU, but I can't tell if this is chipped or not. So, here we go. The main thing is that there is no socket, he says it was made to be used with CROME, Uberdata, etc.. Don't you need a socket of some sort for those programs? I got some pics for you guys, let me know if you can tell.

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Thanks guys.
 
The chip in the bottom right corner of the top pic is the one. It looks like there maybe a socket under it. If its not soldered right to the board it prolly is. Try pulling up on it easily to see if there's a socket underneath.
 
After looking at the pic a couple times, it def is a socket! The chip is an atmel chip even. pull it out :)
 
Okay I will do that in a sec. Going up to get the screwdriver in a sec.

Just out of curiousity, how does that connect to a computer for tuning?
 
basically you pull the chip, put it on a burner (looks like another chip socket), burn the program to the chip, and then put it back in the socket.
 
Ok, so I basically need to get a chip burner.

I'm guessing moates.net or phearable, any of those places will be able to get me what I need?
 
What I'm saying is.. this guy right here: What's In My Cart?

Will that make it so I can get a tuner and have this bitch tuned? Or do I need other things. Sorry for all the questions guys.

EDIT: Oops, that shows the shopping cart, but its called a ZIF socket. Is that what I need?
 
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yess the zif socket will work great! no more accidently bending pins trying to pull the sucker.

ZIF stands for, Zero Inserstion Force ;)

Get the moates Burn1 for chip programing if you need it, works great. Your tuner should have one tho. No all you really need is that, your tuner should have the wideband and software to do his job. Most are only experianced in one or a select few tuning programs, though they are pretty much the same.
 
And, it will require soldering skills to install the zif socket. And possibly a de-soldering iron to remove the old socket. Take your time and double check for good continuity. Changes in temperature can cause a bad soldering job to lose connection even if solder is touching contact points. This is known as a dry joint.
 
Not true. The ZIF socket plugs right into the socket thats already on his board.

Yep he is right you never solder the ZIF socket in, there is a low profile 28 pin socket that is soldered in first. I just socketed a ecu yesterday with a moates kit.
 
Okay I will do that in a sec. Going up to get the screwdriver in a sec.

Just out of curiousity, how does that connect to a computer for tuning?

The atmel chip would come out first of all. Then if you were tuning with CROME the Ostrich which is a chip emulator would plug in to your ecu in that spot. What the emulator does is simulate a chip but the cool thing is it can update and make changes real time. Once the tuning process is over the .bin file is burned onto a chip and plugs in so you can take the emulator out.
 
You can leave the ostrich in as well. I ran my car for months with it always plugged in the car. Useful if you tune the car a lot like I did. Lappy on pass seat, plug the USB cable in and tune. They claim the batt on the ostrich is very reliable and that this can be done :)
 
Not true. The ZIF socket plugs right into the socket thats already on his board.

If you tried to run the zif socket, and the other socket, plus the chip on top, you would have no room in a P30 due to the knock board being right above. This is NOT the correct way to do it. The correct way is to solder the zif to the board.

Though you can get away with just stacking it in your P75..
 
Sorry, I didnt realize the height difference with the knock board :)
 
You can leave the ostrich in as well. I ran my car for months with it always plugged in the car. Useful if you tune the car a lot like I did. Lappy on pass seat, plug the USB cable in and tune. They claim the batt on the ostrich is very reliable and that this can be done :)

Yep. I have had mine in my car for sometime now. I only take it out when I mess with other cars. I like being able to plug my lap top in and make changes anytime I want. Maybe someday I will burn a chip and get all that crap off my passenger side floor!
 
Ok so it sounds like the way to go is to get the Ostrich or another emulator and just run with that.
I have a feeling I will have this car retuned several times before I'm happy with the results. Another question:
For multiple fuel maps, could I just get two burnable chips, and have one tuned for the street, one for the track, and just switch them when I want to? Or is that a more difficult process than it seems? I think I could handle taking the 5 minutes to pop the ecu out, remove the cover and switch chips when I felt like going racing, but I'm not sure if there is more to it than that.

Any suggestions? This will be a DD and will be raced maybe twice a month at the local dragstrip/autocross track.
 
I've got the 2Timer. Works good. Just make sure you turn the car off when changing fuel maps. It's very handy for having a high boost tune and a low boost tune, especially if your a DD.

Yes, moates used to sell them. But as of late I havn't seen them on their site....not sure why.
 
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