spun a bearing

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formby

learning in progress
99 hatch
81.5mm ls block w/stock pistons. arp rod bolts
stock b16 head
gsr intake cam sir intake cam

i was driving home from work thursday and suddenly heard a loud ticking or metal against metal sound as i lightly revved through the gear.
i thought something came loose or stuck under the car, but when i stopped at the walgreens by my house i popped the hood and heard this nasty sound from my engine.
at first i thought it was a valve but upon further listening and checking valve lash i thought it was my tensioner or a bent valve.
well today i dropped it off at a reputable auto service place to get a leak down test.
after a couple hrs i called and the owner told me i had a spun bearing. he stated he did a leak down test and it was ok and he used a stethoscope to listen to car block and it was definitely a spun bearing. he told me he could open the pan to verify.
the car had a leaky oil pump so its possible. [it had pleanty of oil]
so what now?
i have three choices as far as i see it.
1 sell the hatch like it is.
2 take out the long block and take the short block to a machine shop and have them fix it. {or take the whole long block so i wont have to tear into it}
3 take out the long block and replace it with a b20 from Hmotorsonline.com [749+shp= 999+/-]
the cons
1 i dont know who would buy a spun engine hatch & i cant afford a car payment.
2 if i sent it to a machine shop i might have to pay close to what a long block might cost me plus water/oil pumps & i still have to use 91+ octane
3 if i buy a B20 long block i would pay close to 1G and i would still have to buy a timing belt kit plus water/oil pumps. but i could use 87 octane

this is all after i bought a new gsr tranny with quaife LSD, got a new radio, installed a stealth alarm and tinted the windows. F-me
not to mention my wife is pissed because this would be my 4th car and 3rd engine ive gone through in 6 years



could i see how bad the bearing looks and just slip a bigger size bearing until i can afford to fix it right?


discuss
 
if i was you i would take the pan off,and see how bad it is,,buy a new crank,new bearings and throw it back together
 
not a big deal, thats why there are bearings, you dont need a new crank. the bearing protect your shit. check clearence with a micrometer and you could prob still use the same size bearing.
 
^wrong if it spun a bearing it could have wrecked the crank,we wont know until he takes the pan off..
 
could is the key word, didnt i say check the clearence with a micrometer, and then you will know,
 
Buy a B20 and throw your B16 head on her. It would probably be your most cost effective choice also.

CR-Vtec FTW!
 
yeah, if it were me i would just swap the b20 n turbo that pig, im a turbo guy, once you feel boost pull you you cant go back
 
well ive decided to rebuild what i have.
max bore TB $100
extrude hone IM $429 might not do it

bought
82mm CTR nippon pistons $159

OEM honda
1 x COVER ASSY., R. SIDE $53.43
1 x PUMP ASSY., OIL $93.82
1 x WATER PUMP (YAMADA) $75.80
1 x TENSIONER, TIMING BELT $54.21
1 x GASKET SET, HEAD COVER $38.02
1 x RUBBER, SEAL (LOWER) $20.61
1 x SEAL B, ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET RUBBER $2.75
1 x COVER, TIMING BELT MIDDLE $17.53
1 x COVER, TIMING BELT BACK $20.25
1 x SEAL A, ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET RUBBER $3.61
1 x RUBBER, BACK SEAL $21.53
1 x SWITCH, OIL PRESSURE (TEC) $6.09
1 x GASKET, OIL PAN $19.83
1 x O-RING (26.2X2.4) (NOK)
$1.33 1 x GASKET, OIL STRAINER $1.51
6 x BOLT A, TIMING BELT COVER $16.02
2 x BOLT, TIMING BELT COVER $5.96
Sub-Total: $452.30 UPS and FedEx (Ground): $13.10 Handling Fee: $4.95 Discount Coupons:honda-tech10: $10.00 Total: $460.35
https://www.hondapartsdeals.com

$420+/- for the machine work plus final assembly

+ honda bearings $???

thats all so far and only the block



i might buy some comp cams 57300 but i dont know if i should using my b16 lifters.
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BTW
i decided to go mild na build instead of FI because i want to close this long block up and not tough it for another 75k+ miles.

and one of the main reasons why i dont know if i should buy the cams stated above. i was going to go with s2proII but i can get the comp cams for under $475.

ill start the removal of my long block some time next week. i might send the short block i have laying around to get built first then start removing the head
 
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just bought
SK2 pro2 cams 519
Professional Products 68mm TB 138
Professional Products 65mm IM 159

2,052 so far including machine work and assembly
my wife is going to kill me. but this is the last engine i put in this car for a long time. and its all in a card under my name only.
 
wow all this and you were complaining about not having any money not too long ago? why not just fix what is broke and save the rest?
 
+
Golden Eagle B16-B18-B20 Main Girdle Kit OE Hardware $388


2440

ouch i'm done
 
its all going in a card that ill pay it off with any cash i have left over each week. and ive bought all these things so i can forget about the engine.

its has been leaking oil since for ever.
it smoked blueish
and the block i am replacing had alot of fucked up threads
and i might as well get this out of the way now rather than spending more money upgrading later

after this is done ill be paying this credit card bill like if it was a car payment.
 
thanks.
i'm going to exchange the ctr pistons for some its units
 
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