Which timing belt do i need to use?

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armluv

New Member
B18a1 block b16 head aem cam gears and type r 22 tooth water pump.
I have an itm 227 belt but it is about an inch short does anyone know what belt i really should use.

suggested was a 187 and a 184 from itm

please help
 
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i guess everyone is as clueless as me 15 viewers not one anwser. maby the 16th will know more then us.
 
ITM? Or, ITR?

Maybe check into a B18C1 (GSR) timing belt?


Yeah The GSR Timing belts what you run for a LS/V Build assuming you put in the vtev pump for a b18c1(GSR) .. It has a slightly larger pully with a extra tooth or 2 so your slacks probally there if your using the gsr belt The LS head is shorter so cant use that atall I wouldnt think.. Theres an Ebay store you can get any line of b16 pistons to drop in the b18 with a full rebuild gasket set and bearings You tell them the block and head they give you the right gasket, just dont go over 11.5 on the c/r
 
b18c1 (gsr) belt thanks. the type r pump does have 3 extra teeth. I am running the following parts.

1. B18a1 block with darton mid 84mm sleeves
2. balanced rotating assembly with micropolished stock crank
3. acl full race (main and rod) bearings and t washers
4. eagle h-beam rods
5. wisco pistons 9.5:1 with file fit rings
6. stage IV ported and polished b16 head with aftermarket valves stock sized (315
cfm on flowbench)
7. crowler cams (in. 311d/.467 ex. 308d/.467)
8. custom dual valve springs with ti retainers crowler steel keepers,
9. Cometic ls/vtec head gasket
10. Valve cover with gear cover cut for adjustments.
11. parts to plumb oil to vtec and turbo from oil pressure sending unit
12. msd dizzy/blaster sc coil
13. apocalypse oil pump/ gmb type r water pump
14. aem 6 bolt 20 deg. adjustable cam gears

Things i still need are:
1. T67 or T68 turbo will custom make header/downpipe and intercooler to match
2. AEM standalone EMS with wideband UEGO or hondata system (not sure which way to go on the ecu issue yet.)
 
b18c1 (gsr) belt thanks. the type r pump does have 3 extra teeth. I am running the following parts.

1. B18a1 block with darton mid 84mm sleeves
2. balanced rotating assembly with micropolished stock crank
3. acl full race (main and rod) bearings and t washers
4. eagle h-beam rods
5. wisco pistons 9.5:1 with file fit rings
6. stage IV ported and polished b16 head with aftermarket valves stock sized (315
cfm on flowbench)
7. crowler cams (in. 311d/.467 ex. 308d/.467)
8. custom dual valve springs with ti retainers crowler steel keepers,
9. Cometic ls/vtec head gasket
10. Valve cover with gear cover cut for adjustments.
11. parts to plumb oil to vtec and turbo from oil pressure sending unit
12. msd dizzy/blaster sc coil
13. apocalypse oil pump/ gmb type r water pump
14. aem 6 bolt 20 deg. adjustable cam gears

Things i still need are:
1. T67 or T68 turbo will custom make header/downpipe and intercooler to match
2. AEM standalone EMS with wideband UEGO or hondata system (not sure which way to go on the ecu issue yet.)


Thats pretty close to the same build I'm doin after this one.. Garrett GT40r 850hp intercooler (precission) i was lookin into the eagle b18c1 block.. with a b16a head setup ferrea valve train with the rollers cams dual springs.. but I dunno if i wanna run the skunk 2 cams n'pullies or the ferrea cams on that setup.. debating still I'm shooping for a 700whp tune in, at bout 35lbs boost.. Hondata s300, run it nout 15psi daily driver, bump it up to 30 on the track.. Ahh cant wait to get knees deep in parts for it.. Thats the best feeling
 
Thats pretty close to the same build I'm doin after this one.. Garrett GT40r 850hp intercooler (precission) i was lookin into the eagle b18c1 block.. with a b16a head setup ferrea valve train with the rollers cams dual springs.. but I dunno if i wanna run the skunk 2 cams n'pullies or the ferrea cams on that setup.. debating still I'm shooping for a 700whp tune in, at bout 35lbs boost.. Hondata s300, run it nout 15psi daily driver, bump it up to 30 on the track.. Ahh cant wait to get knees deep in parts for it.. Thats the best feeling
Yeah that is definetly a good feeling, I am looking at t T67 or T68 ball bearing turbo. hoping to get around 800hp as well. one thing i would suggest to you and kinda wish i would have done to is to use a B20 Block instead of the B18. As far as the B18c1 it is the same as any B18 block with the exception of the Vtec head so you can get the block cheaper if you use a b18a1 or b1 you just have to plumb the oil to the head which i like better because i can run it throu an oil cooler and keep temps. down. but look into using the b20 it runs pretty much the same price for a better block and the option of running larger pistons.
 
Yeah that is definetly a good feeling, I am looking at t T67 or T68 ball bearing turbo. hoping to get around 800hp as well. one thing i would suggest to you and kinda wish i would have done to is to use a B20 Block instead of the B18. As far as the B18c1 it is the same as any B18 block with the exception of the Vtec head so you can get the block cheaper if you use a b18a1 or b1 you just have to plumb the oil to the head which i like better because i can run it throu an oil cooler and keep temps. down. but look into using the b20 it runs pretty much the same price for a better block and the option of running larger pistons.

well see the reason I'm thinking the eagle b18c1 sleeved block is cause its half the price of taking an b18a/b and sleeving it. Plus you can safly bore it over to run 2.0 sleeves with it being sleeved with eagle sleeves. I have a b18a block in the garage and another in my teg right now. There is a difference between the a/b. And c1. The decks alittle higher on the c1 and the strokes slightly shorter (but has longer rods) All in all its minor gain the ls block has over the GSR. But at a sacrifice to durability.
The slight difference in stroke actually puts more Strain on the bearings. And at high boost. Not a good idea. Not to mention the bore size. Stay at a 1.8 bore and you can rev 11.5-12 grand with that boost on a gsr stroke/bore sleeved, pauter 1,000 hp rods, arp mains and head studs, main girdle. C1/c5 pumps n belt stock pullies, the ferrea valve train on top & skunk 2 pro cams.Catch can kit wouldnt hurt also. All that on a built LS trani for longer gears on turbo, quaiffe LSD differential... Be in there then.

That's durability power and high revs. I'd rather be hittin the 700hp from 6grand on up to 12 grand than hittin it at say 5.5k to 9k (round about) in the long run on the track that's make the difference
 
also the b20's have the same stroke as the b18a/b. The b18c is designed for higher rpms wich will benefit turbo alot in the long run. Hell you can throw a shot of nos in the picture also. Check out the video on servion.com. Last tune on white integra. Looks like a t67 and he's spraying! If its not servion.com its hondoctors.com
 
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