H22 Head on F22

[privateyeblckbx2]

Hey, im new to this forum, i have a 1991 Accord with a F22 SOHC non VTEC. Im thinking about dropping a H22 in but would a H22 head fit on my F22A1 with little or no mods? If so which head should i use? Also should i stick with my Accord ECU or go with the Ludes? Or what if i just use a VTEC controller? If this cant be done ill just save for a full H22, trans and ecu. But id i do go with the full swap should i look for the same years as mine or should i look for a 96-01? i just want an almost direct drop in that i can build as a dailey driver/ time attack car. I just need to be pointed in the right direction.

 

[BrutalB83]

It can be done, but I'd probably just swap the whole motor instead. Keep in mind that the H22's internals are different then the F22's. The compression will be lower, it won't perform exactly the same as an H22 would.

If you did do it, then yes, you would definitely need to use the H22's ECU...

 

[nootrac22]

the f22 will take boost better, so if you're looking to go that route later on, I'd just do the head swap.

 

[BrutalB83]

the f22 will take boost better, so if you're looking to go that route later on, I'd just do the head swap.

Right, that's true. The iron sleeves and the lower compression might work out okay if you're going to boost...

 

[Uncle Buck]

dont forget that if you keep the original trans on that F22/H22 hybrid.... your gonna have really long gears and honestly the H22 head swap would be pointless.... id seriously if i were you id slap on a turbo kit of that F22... its bullet proof, can handle 15psi on a safe tune and great DD... cheaper... more power then the H22... and with the F22 trans on boost its a great setup.... perhaps its something to think about.... but ultimatly if you really want the H22 head.... go ahead and swap it over... keep the F22 trans and still boost it.... or another thing.... H22 head swap H22 lsd trans and to make up for that lower compression slap on a thinner head gasket or go buck wild and throw a 75 shot on

you have many options... you just need to make up your mind^_^

oh and yes you will need to ditch the P12 ecu and get the P13 or even a P72

 

[calmfornow]

i just swapped my H22 into my 91 accord lx. runs amazing, just a minor bugs. its really easy but if you do, do the swap, the hardest part for me was to take the motor out of mycar with the trans still connected. we could not get the trans to clear the chassis, as well as getting the h22 in either. also if it is a JDM like mine you will have to tap new holes in for the accord mounts, check all of the mounts before throwing it in. also you would be recomended to replace the auto timing tensioner to a manual on, replace a clutch(i didnt and now i have to with the motor in the car), and minor stuff like that.. thats what you would need todo in a full swap. took me and two of my buddies 3 day because the motor was being stubborn. if the motors went in and out without giving problems it would have been in one night. haha also the power steering on just a head or full swap you will need to get the prelude power steering pressure line, i dont have one, and now i have no power steering, and it SUCKS MONKEY BALLS. but the full hose is 100.99 at my autozone....just email me of message me on here if you need help, i can basically walk you through this procedure step by step if you do the swap good luck deciding and if you boost it, i dont know how reliable the car would be...i havent seen a boosted F22 run longer than 700 miles

 

[BrutalB83]

if you boost it, i dont know how reliable the car would be...i havent seen a boosted F22 run longer than 700 miles

Reliability is all in the quality of the parts that you use, the quality of the tune that you get, and the condition of the engine being boosted. If you slap a crap E-bay turbo kit on to a beat-the-fuck-up high mileage F22 and tune it yourself with an FMU, then yeah, it's probably not going to last.

Conversely, if you check out condition of the motor prior to boosting, do any necessary repairs or re-building, use ARP hardware to hold the motor together, buy decent quality turbo parts, and then get it tuned on a dyno using a re-chipped stock ECU or a standalone, then there's no reason it can't be reliable and last for a long, long time...