Is this set up good and worth the money?

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AS_da

New Member
B16a2 block
-fully polished and balanced
-stock rod
-fully arp bolts
-ctr pistons
-custom hg

B18c1 head
-toda spec b cams
-toda built head
-skunk2 cam gear
-skunk2 intake manifold
-type r header

gsr s80 transmission
fidanza 8lbs flywheel
exedy stage 2 clutch
custom axles
quilfe lsd

how much will i make and could i break 12 and what if its in my da?
 
Building an engine to sell is just a waste of time and a humungus waste of money. Unless you are a well known trusted builder with alot of good rep. you'll never see anywhere near retail for those parts. If you mean 12 as in 12k, you're dreaming. I could see 3k, if you are really lucky.
 
I think hes talkin about quarter mile bro. I think you could do at least very high 13's mabe in the low 12's
 
Ahh, ok. His mastery of the english language pwns me, I suppose.

Anyhow, who knows. Drive the thing and find out.
 
if you're throwing all that money at the thing... why use a b16 block and stock rods? what do you mean by "fully polished and balanced"? do you mean the crank? you'd be much more satisfied if you used a b20 block, or have a b18 bored out to 84mm. the b18 would be cheaper to boot.
 
its a decent list of parts , but again why stock rods , would it do 12s in a da , possibly with the right tune and a good driver , parts don't mean your , fast just that you have the part to be fast
 
why not use a gsr block and get internals for that. those blocks are amazing, they are very strong and hat the oil squirters that help with the high revs. maybe some sleeves too. you lookin at some serious cash. it might be cheeper to just build it with low compression stuff and run boost
 
Judging by the parts list and the question you asked, Im gunna go out on a limb here and say youre new to Hondas. What you need to do is research, your parts list is off to an ok start, but there is a lot more you need to think about.

As for the stock rods, if you decide to stick with em, at least go have them shot peened for a lil more strength.
 
i was asking this question because my cousin ran this in his eg but stock b16 bottom and gsr head with skunk2 cam gear. type r header and gapped pipe and hes alreay seeing low 13s so i was just wondering if i could break 12 with this set up? and no im not selling it for 12k i meant 12 sec 1/4 time!!
 
Building an engine to sell is just a waste of time and a humungus waste of money. Unless you are a well known trusted builder with alot of good rep. you'll never see anywhere near retail for those parts. If you mean 12 as in 12k, you're dreaming. I could see 3k, if you are really lucky.

Jump to conclusions much?


Judging by the parts list and the question you asked, Im gunna go out on a limb here and say youre new to Hondas. What you need to do is research, your parts list is off to an ok start, but there is a lot more you need to think about.

As for the stock rods, if you decide to stick with em, at least go have them shot peened for a lil more strength.


I agree and you need ARP rod bolts as well. Make sure you have 3 times your budget and another car.
 
no im not new to honda...ive been around it for long now but never liked vtec but after my cousins set up i was wondering what that set up should get cause now im just boosting my ls motor! its fun but i want power all time not later on when your getting close to redline already...like 2.5 or 3.5?
 
like 2.5 or 3.5?

What? Are you talkin about VTEC crossover, or redline, or what? VTEC doesnt crossover close to redline, it crosses over on the high side of halfway through the RPM range. It might seem like its near redline cuz your car will pull like a mother fucker after the crossover until it hits redline.
 
Werd, I wasnt thinkin. You should get ARP no matter what rods you go with.

I have Eagle H beam in mine and im running boost, with forged pistons to boot.

I thought Eagle were a better choice with rods then ARP? i mean yeah ARP bolts/studs like the bolts i have IN MY RODS but rods themselves? eh.. i guess

*EDIT* my bad, i thought you meant Rods themselves. not rod bolts. dur de dur on my part.
 
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