d15b2 potential

[aux]

hey folks

d15b2 block + d16z6 or d15b vtec head + z6 or y8 intake + mpfi + crx si trans + obd2 + ex ecu.
can this be done?

i recently saw a civic posted in craigslist which i found quite interesting. it was an EF hatch with with a rebuilt d15b2 block + d16a6 head(crx si) + y8 intake manifold + multi + "no fuel cut" + crx si ecu + crx si trans. had the usuals such as header, exaust, coilovers, and an aem intake, and even an autometer a/f gauge. maybe some more details... yes also it had headwork done, the exact numbers went unspecified though.

this really turned me on, and made me curious about the b2 block. ive seen ppl in europe swap in b2's in thier EG's, and of course we've all seen plenty of EF dx's with I/H/E ..so im curious if the older b2 blocks are actually stronger and better than the d15b7 that was used in the EG's. maybe the bore/stroke is more desirable too, idk. fresh b2 blocks arent that expensive, and if you take care of them and dont abuse them theyll actually last a while, ive seen plenty of dx EG's still on the road and some that have been babied are going for around $2000

so im thinking this would be a perfect hax for a nice moderatly powerful but satisfying DD. it wont outrun DSMs, but it would be fun to drive, and rewarding i believe, if the stock b2 block is strong enough for an engine rating of 88-100 kw, under nominal conditions. 88 would be sweet and great fun for little comprimise(assuming these b2 block are strong). 100 would be just plain nasty and would = the stock power of a 4age smallport... which is more than enough for an EF hatch. this is for an engine that is to be built strictly N/A and no nitrous, since its going to have to last, and keep high compression. im not interested in turbo or supercharging, i prefer a nice highly responsive n/a engine. a lightwieght flywheel would be nice for this, but i wouldnt want to make the comprimise for a DD, for obvious reasons.

high compression is perhaps one of my biggest concerns. its rumored that the a6 head is the same as the b2 head, but that the z6 or d15b vtec heads will be cutting it close.. here are a couple examples of the possible combinations in question:
compression raised ratio or lowered?
d15b2 + a6 head
d15b2 + vtec z6 or y8 or d15b head
does anyone know the results?

i used to have a d15b8 in a cx hatch, which means roller coaster like driving, using hills, interia and manipulating the effects of gforces upon the vehicle to make up for the lack of power. floating the vehicle like water through a aquaduct is the closest i can come to explaining it. it DID have power sometimes though, just enough in certain spots, but nothing for ecceleration, or hills. i always thought of fitting an ex trans to the b8 block, but then i sold the hatch and bought a corolla gt-s.

im about to get back in the game again, looking for a civic as a DD so that i can either rebuild or swap my gt-s engine. so, ive decided that in the event im lucky enough to land a clean EF hatch(no sedans), i would like to do d15b2 + d16z6 or d15b vtec head + intake + mpfi + crx si trans + obd2 + ex ecu. and actually, id settle for the crx si swap like the guy in craigslist. but im much more interested in doing the vtec head.

its either that or end up with an EG already vtec swapped. i would much more prefer to do the Ef hatch build. to me, and even with just the dx trans, this seems like a practical and low cost hax that can be done in 8 hrs without the addition of the si trans. its also rumored that the crx si trans has the shortest gearing of all the d trannies...

any info on this would be greatly appreciated.

 

[K2e2vin]

Skip OBD2, you do not want it(unless you absolutely have to; which means your car is a 96+).

Yes, the A6 and B2 heads are the same casting.

Compression is fine with the VTEC heads(including the Y8). With the A6 head, it's the same as stock. A lot of people go for P29/PM7 pistons out of the D16A1's due to their higher dome(increase compression).

If anything, mill the head about .020" or .030", P29 pistons, reground cam, a well designed header, retune, and you should be looking at around 120-130whp. With a better intake(either carburetors, individual throttle bodies, or ported/aftermarket intake manifold), it's safe to assume you'll be in the 135-150whp range.

Matter of fact, there's a member on D-series.org(friend of Bisi Ezerioha I assume) that has a JDM D15B non-VTEC(pretty much a D15B7; which is like a MPFI'd D15B2), and is putting out 163whps.

Bisi himself put down about 270whp with a carbureted D15B2 in his drag car(naturally aspirated). BTW; the figures listed for the engines are at the crank.

The D15B2 and D15B7 are pretty much identical minus maybe the cam and the intake manifold.

 

[BoostedHatch]

d15b2+d16z6 head =beastly mini me swap.

 

[Slow&Delirious]

D engines are great to play with and learn how to build with

but if you are going to invest a lot of money, get a B series, they have a lot more potential

 

[Slow&Delirious]

isnt the B2 an 8valve? i dont remember off hand

 

[AHHVTEC]

isnt the B2 an 8valve? i dont remember off hand

naa

 

[Slow&Delirious]

i have read about a D15 variant that was an 8 valve that only made like 76hp out of an older CR-x

 

[aux]

hey blanco, could i have your opinion on the d15b2 block for this application? i really would like to know. ive tried researching this topic, and found some good info, but the guy who posted the similar topic was quite an ass so unfortunatley the thread never progressed.

i need to make it clear that im not interested in building up the block/overboring, racing anyone, squirting nitrous, boosting. what i am going for is finding a stricktly plug and play equasion that works, produces around 120-140 hp, decent torque, will rev high but will not wear out very easliy under the conditions of backroad / mountain driving and occasionally pushing it hard, about once or twice a week, and with most of the driving activity as basic commuting and delivering pizza. the idea is to have nice little pizza car hax thats practical and easy as hell to fix/replace parts, quick, pull out of corners well, and be good on fuel. strictly plug and play no block work. head work is fine, slap the sucker on and go. but i think it is a neat idear to find plug n plug n play componenets in this caase. just need to know if the d15b2 block is going to hold up just fine in these conditions, and if the compression ratio is raised or lowered when mated with the vtec head. thank you guys for answering my inquiry about the differences of the b2 and a6 head being just the cam. im not interested in any b engines ATM, i believe a d will be the perfect tool for the job. i have a 4age in my rolla so im quite satisified in the dohc department =]

Civic standard hatchback.

 

[AHHVTEC]

this would be so much easier if blanco just sold built motors lol

 

[AHHVTEC]

dont tease us lol

 

[K2e2vin]

Civic standard hatchback.

That's a 16-valve engine; D15B1

CRX HF(D15B6) and 92-95 Civic CX(D15B8) were 8-valve engines.

Does cam and "replacement" pistons count as block work? If you're talking about bolt-ons, as in intake, header, exhaust, etc. Then 120whp with the D15B2 is almost impossible. I think it puts down around 80whp stock.

 

[AHHVTEC]

That's a 16-valve engine; D15B1

CRX HF(D15B6) and 92-95 Civic CX(D15B8) were 8-valve engines.

Does cam and "replacement" pistons count as block work? If you're talking about bolt-ons, as in intake, header, exhaust, etc. Then 120whp with the D15B2 is almost impossible. I think it puts down around 80whp stock.

blanco can wiggle his way out of that one because it was a 2 part question the d15b1 did have hp in the 70s lol

 

[aux]

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

well crap. i wonder wtf all those guys with dx's have been doing then... the d15b2 is the engine in the DX right?
ive heard of it done before, just thought it would work. well then is there some big difference between the b2 block and the a6? i understamnd the a6 is the popular mini me block, so would i have to get an si model instead of a dx then? i feel like crying lol

 

[aux]

cool. no swaps, no digging in the block. i keep trying to say im not wanting to monkey with it, i need a backup vehicle to deliver pizza in, a reliable DD. if i had any intention of swapping or messing about with the block, it would be another project car, so this is basically a plug and play only inquiry. of course you can do this and that to the blocks, but that would require "downtime" and buying a car just to have to take it off the road and work on it, which is totally not what im trying to do. im trying to find a civic i can just slap a vtec head on and go, make a fun driving reliable DD to deliver pizza in so that i can work on my corolla. thats all. thanks for your help thus far ppl... and blanco, 10.2:1 sounds great. so a d15b2 will work for this...if they have a closer bore/stroke then thats actually a good thing as it may rev higher. a longer stroke = more torque and usually in racing engine designs such as the 4age the bore/stroke are really close. ive heard sohc is great for turbo, and dohc is better for n/a, but im wlling to bet you can make an 11,000 rpm n/a screamer out of a d engine, but that would require building of course. things like ROSS coated nitrous pistons, apr studs, crank scraper, al;l forged internals, and other things i havent mentioned come to mind hehe

 

[aux]

D15B2

• Found in:
  • 1988-1991 Honda Civic GL/DX/LX
  • 1988-1991 Honda CRX DX
  • 1992-1995 Honda Civic LSi Hatch/Saloon (European Market)
  • 1990-1995 Honda Concerto (European Market)
    • Displacement : 1493 cm³
    • Bore and stroke : 75 mm X 84.5 mm
    • Rod Length : 134 mm
    • Compression : 9.2:1
    • Power : 92 hp (69 kW) @ 6000 rpm & 119 Nm @ 4500 rpm
    • Valvetrain : SOHC (4 valves per cylinder)
    • Cam Gear : 38 tooth
    • Piston Code : PM3
    • Fuel Control : PGM-FI Dual Point (OBD0)
    • Redline : 6500 rpm (6000 rpm honda concerto
    D15B
  • VTEC
  • Found in:
    • 1991-1999 Honda Civic VTi EG4 (Japanese Market)
    • 1992-1998 Honda CRX VXi EG1 (Japanese Market)
      • Displacement : 1493 cm³
      • Bore and Stroke : 75 mm X 84.5 mm
      • Rod Length : 137 mm
      • Compression : 9.6:1
      • Power : 128.22 hp (130 ps) @ 6800 rpm & 101.9 ft·lbs (14.1kg/m) @ 5200 rpm
      • Redline : 7200 rpm
      • Fuel Cut : 7411 rpm
      • Valvetrain : SOHC VTEC
      • Head Code : P08
      • Fuel Control : OBD-1 MPFI
      
      D16A6
      
      Also known as D16Z2.
    • Found in:
      • 1988-1991 Honda Civic Si, CRX Si, Civic Wagon RT4WD
      • 1990-1991 Honda Civic EX Sedan
      • 1988-1995 Honda Civic Shuttle RT4WD (UK/Europe/Asia/AU/NZ)
      • 1989-1996 Rover 216/416 GSi (UK/Europe)
        • Displacement : 1590 cm³
        • Bore and Stroke : 75 mm X 90 mm
        • Rod Length : 137 mm
        • Compression : 9.1:1
        • Power : 115 hp (86 kW) @ 5600 rpm & 100 ft·lbf (140 N·m) @ 3,800 rpm, redline 7200 rpm (USA)
          • Note: 1988 engines were 105 hp (78 kW), MY89-91 hp was increased to 108
        • Valvetrain : SOHC
        • Fuel Control : OBD-0 four-point PGM-FI
        • Head Code : PM3
        • Piston Code : PM6
    • 
      D16Z6
    • Found in
      • 1991-1992 Honda civic si
      • 1992-1995 Honda Civic EX, EX-V and SI
      • 1992-1995 Honda Civic ESi (European Market)
      • 1993-1995 Honda Del Sol Si (US)
      • 1993-1995 Honda Del Sol ESi (European)
        • Displacement : 1590 cm³
        • Bore and Stroke : 75 mm X 90 mm
        • Compression : 9.2:1
        • Power : 125 hp (93 kW) @ 6600 rpm & 106 ft·lbf (144 N·m) @ 5200 rpm
        • Redline : 7300 rpm
        • Fuel Cut : 7411 rpm
        • Valvetrain : SOHC VTEC
        • Fuel Control : OBD-1 MPFI
        • Head Code : P08
        • ECU Code : P28
        69kw lol...far cry from what i was hoping for (88-100kw)
        

 

[K2e2vin]

The 4AG is more similar to the B16A. I believe they have the same stroke too if not close(77mm); much shorter than even the D15. Most of the built D's redline around 7500-8500rpm(highest was around 9000rpm IIRC); it's pretty much limited by the head.

If you're going to just DD it, I'd say just do a MPFI conversion and maybe a Si cam swap with the PM6 ECU.

 

[aux]

ok so i guess ill need a spare head with new spring componenets, shaved .020 , si cam + Y8 intake + mpfi + ecu + si trans + IHE and an hks(or like quality) headgasket. new cam seals and all the rest of the crap of course. ill start there then worry about the vtec head. ill let u guys know how its coming, thanx for all the info

 

[hondacivicguy05]

i don't mean to thread jack but i was curious of how hard it would to be to put the si cam in on a d15b2 with the mpfi already done reading all this was making me wonder how much power it would probably gain and if it worth doin

 

[hondacivicguy05]

ok thanks man one more ? would it be a good idea if i got an adjustable cam gear to go back on it just in case it needs to be adjusted ir just put the stock one back on

 

[aux]

ok so i found my dx hatch. its real clean, and dark grey. first things im going to do is get a set of ebay coilovers(since i wont be thrashing it around) a cheap exaust and header, and a tach so i can see where im @. next month ill do the mpfi. i found a custom harness, so i dont have to waste time tracing all the circuits, soldering this and that, etc. basically i was curious if i can use 2 bigger injectors and an intake for the time being on the dual, would the dx ecu compensate? or would it run too rich and give me problems? im hoping with the IHE and 2 bigger injectors i could gain the 10 hp from the stock 90(or whatever its @ now) 150,000 on a dx block, and this car hasnt been riced out or raced by street fools, so im hoping the comp is still good.

OH, really curious about THIS: my gt-s has a factory installed oil cooler system, which definately helps keep the oil @ reasonable temp. where on the d16 block is the oil outlet for such, i havent had a chance to get down in there and find it, and i havent picked up the hatch yet. hoping this will help the engine, and all id have to do is yank one from an AE92 gt-s.