Surging Idle *Video inside*
YouTube - Accord H22 Idle Surge
For everyone having simlar problems... i suggest you look into the voltage of your TPS mine was at .14* i slighty unscrewed it(same concept at the dizzy), played with it until i got the voltage to .47* closed throttle and 5.2 WOT
Also solved the starting problems by blocking off the EGR valve.
Issues:
doesnt want to start, exhaust rushes back into the intake manifold.
Buzzing noise when starting, stops when i release the clutch
idles fine when cold, when its warm the idle surges. (IACV PCV TBS)
while its idling if i give it gas its luggish and cuts out (also possibly timing?)
What I've tried:
Ive cleaned the IACV, FITV, TB and ive checked for vacumm leaks found a metel tube off of the intake (cruise control) that was uncapped.
____________________________________________
Picked up a CD5 with an H22 in it today. I'm not much of a fan of buying someone elses work but i couldnt help myself. I am now a proud owner of a riced out CD5 with an h22 swap and a 98% stock (lowered with wheels) USDM CD5.
CEL is on
its got an erratic idle, when cold its fine, but when it warms up it bounces from 1400 to 2500 kinda slowly 1.5 seconds inbetween surges. it's also hard to start, when i turn it over it takes a bit to start it and when it does, it sounds like its going to die. i figured it was the IACV, no big deal. took off the IACV, cleaned it out same problem ruled out the TPS since it only does this when its warm.
unplugged the IACV only to have the same problem persist, but differently. instead of it surging from 1400 to 2500 it how did it differently. now it was surging from 1000 to 1200 very quickly, that being said i figured it wasnt the IACV since unpluging it should stop the surging.
so i figured oh hey lets see if the FITV hole has suction, so i take off the air intake, put my finger over the hole in the TB and SHOOP it feels like a shop vac, so me being the curious person that i am i put my finger over the ICAV hole to kill the engine... it kept running... theres such a huge leak from the FITV that i had to put fingers over both holes to shut down the motor.
now while typing this up, i realized... while plugging the FITV hole it didnt cause the idle to stop bouncing, would that mean the FITV isnt the problem? or would it mean that since i didnt reset the ECU it wouldnt make a difference?
tomorrow when its light, I'm going to unplug the IACV while the air intake off of the TB and place my finger over the FITV hole to see if it stops the surging, if it does... ive found my problem FITV. if it doesnt... could it mean my IACV AND my FITV is bad? that may sound stupid, but since the suging gets worse while the IACV is plugged in, and i know the FITV isnt supposed to have any suction.
YouTube - Accord H22 Idle Surge
For everyone having simlar problems... i suggest you look into the voltage of your TPS mine was at .14* i slighty unscrewed it(same concept at the dizzy), played with it until i got the voltage to .47* closed throttle and 5.2 WOT
Also solved the starting problems by blocking off the EGR valve.
Issues:
doesnt want to start, exhaust rushes back into the intake manifold.
Buzzing noise when starting, stops when i release the clutch
idles fine when cold, when its warm the idle surges. (IACV PCV TBS)
while its idling if i give it gas its luggish and cuts out (also possibly timing?)
What I've tried:
Ive cleaned the IACV, FITV, TB and ive checked for vacumm leaks found a metel tube off of the intake (cruise control) that was uncapped.
____________________________________________
Picked up a CD5 with an H22 in it today. I'm not much of a fan of buying someone elses work but i couldnt help myself. I am now a proud owner of a riced out CD5 with an h22 swap and a 98% stock (lowered with wheels) USDM CD5.
CEL is on
its got an erratic idle, when cold its fine, but when it warms up it bounces from 1400 to 2500 kinda slowly 1.5 seconds inbetween surges. it's also hard to start, when i turn it over it takes a bit to start it and when it does, it sounds like its going to die. i figured it was the IACV, no big deal. took off the IACV, cleaned it out same problem ruled out the TPS since it only does this when its warm.
unplugged the IACV only to have the same problem persist, but differently. instead of it surging from 1400 to 2500 it how did it differently. now it was surging from 1000 to 1200 very quickly, that being said i figured it wasnt the IACV since unpluging it should stop the surging.
so i figured oh hey lets see if the FITV hole has suction, so i take off the air intake, put my finger over the hole in the TB and SHOOP it feels like a shop vac, so me being the curious person that i am i put my finger over the ICAV hole to kill the engine... it kept running... theres such a huge leak from the FITV that i had to put fingers over both holes to shut down the motor.
now while typing this up, i realized... while plugging the FITV hole it didnt cause the idle to stop bouncing, would that mean the FITV isnt the problem? or would it mean that since i didnt reset the ECU it wouldnt make a difference?
tomorrow when its light, I'm going to unplug the IACV while the air intake off of the TB and place my finger over the FITV hole to see if it stops the surging, if it does... ive found my problem FITV. if it doesnt... could it mean my IACV AND my FITV is bad? that may sound stupid, but since the suging gets worse while the IACV is plugged in, and i know the FITV isnt supposed to have any suction.
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