how to fix cracked plastic body panels

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Hello, has anyone ever fixed cracked plastic body panels? I have a black 87 crx si w/ cracked fenders and nose panel/front mask (piece between headlights). I was thinking of soldering or putting putty/fiberglass filler on back of panels.
I saw this link on plastic welding
Automotive Plastics: CRX Fenders and Header Panel, plastic fenders, nylon 66
And I thought I read somewhere about someone using Tiger Hair fiberglass filler on the back of a panel to hold it together.
I've barely used a welder or solder unit.
I bought some good fenders but was still hoping to salvage the others.
I'm having trouble locating a nose panel under $130.
Thanks
 
I'd put 2 or 3 layers of fiber glass on the back, and fill in the front with a small amount of bondo on front then sand and primer
 
thx guys. i think i'll buy a $10 solder kit and play around w/ it using my shredded old fender as scrap. i am doubtful about welding plastic. but the bondo/fiberglass thing might work on small cracks. i'll keep it updated. i prob will buy nose panel but first i'll experiment.
 
You can even buy a jacked up CF hood, and just sand and paint it to match the car, then you don't have the weight, but you don't look like a ricer either.
carbon fiber hoods look rice unpainted?!?!?!
i think hoods,trunklids and roof caps shouldnt be painted,only the fenders should
 
a hood that negates the header panel would be good, but i'd prob take the cheaper header panel over that. i just got the car and have been spending a bit fixing it up. yeah injen the top of a car being black like jdm s13 fastbacks are a cool look. even a black 'stripper' roof is cool. i gotta admit the ricers do love carbon fiber, even if the legit people do too. god knows the crx could use a little weight off the front.
 
I dont know how well fiberglass will stick, especially if it's a polypropylene.

I've had really good luck fixing plastic like this.

1. Get the back of the part really clean and nice in rough with some course sand paper, then clean it again with some wax and grease remover.
2. Take a thin piece of sheet metal that covers the crack, and extends quite a ways beyond it.
3. Drill a bunch of small holes into the sheet metal.
4. Mix up some good long set two part epoxy (not the quick set stuff or the putty)
5. Apply the epoxy all over the area the the piece of metal will sit. Make sure to apply enough that it contact the entire piece of sheet metal. When you press it down hopefully some epoxy comes through the holes.
6. Apply more epoxy over the entire top surface of the metal, making sure that you get it through all of the holes.
7. Let the epoxy sit for at least a day... probably 2 or 3 would be best.

The key is getting a good rough surface so that the epoxy has a physical lock with the plastic, and then making sure that the eposy is coming up through all of the holes, because that will physically lock it to the metal.

Now you can flip it over and fill the cracked area on the other side, prime and paint.
 
dang, 5 lbs, i'm so used to hoods being like 50 lbs, so cf being a 25 lb loss. wow, a plastic welder, who knew it existed. i'll have to put your plastic experience to good use. thx again guys. i'm not sure on the plastic type, my 97 gst had polyurethane bumpers and rear quarters i think, but i never worked on that plastic. by the way some people say it helps stop or slow the crack to drill a small hole at the far end of the crack (direction it is going).
 
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