B16 bucking, TPS???

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codyb76

New Member
I recently installed a b16 with 240km(150k miles) into my civic. It bucks at low speeds as i get on and off the gas and sometimes idles up to about 1500 and stays there. I am leaning towards throttle position sensor. No codes set. doe this sound likely? Also does anyone know if i can use my old 1.6 sohc tps on the b16? Both engines are factory canadian 99 model year engines and computers. Any other cars use the same sensor?
 
Change the IAC{ Idle Air Control} unit in the back off your Intake Manifold.
I had the same problem in the past.
 
Have you calibrated your throttle plate recently?

Adjust the aptly called adjustment screw on the throttle body until your TPS reads 0.495V.
 
Have you calibrated your throttle plate recently?

Adjust the aptly called adjustment screw on the throttle body until your TPS reads 0.495V.

:confused:

No. The idle adjustment screw will allow more air to bypass the throttle plate. That is all. You need to loosen the tps and rotate it till you get .45~.5v. Use a multimeter to backprobe the tps to do this.

It could be the tps. It could be the IACV. Mine did that too... I just rewired the whole engine harness and replaced every gasket on the intake system and the tps and IACV so hopefully mine's fixed lol. But as for you, I suggest trying to set the tps, and then maybe replacing the IACV with a known good one. I wouldnt just go out and buy a new one if you dont need it.
 
I will do a voltage check on tps. I am almost certain it is not IAC, last time i had a problem with that i talked to a honda guy who told me to wind in the air bypass screw and it straightened my wandering idle right up. It is more like an on/off switch, like the car thinks it should be at idle and then thinks you are at 25% or more throttle without a smooth transition. It has rivets holding the tps on so adjustment is not convienient. Looks to be the same as my sohc engine tps so i will install it and then adjust voltage once the rivets are out of the way. Thanks for all advice. I will do it tomorrow and post results.
 
:confused:

No. The idle adjustment screw will allow more air to bypass the throttle plate. That is all. You need to loosen the tps and rotate it till you get .45~.5v. Use a multimeter to backprobe the tps to do this.

Uh, you're talking about the wrong screw. The THROTTLE PLATE screw.

Let's do things how Honda does them.
 
Ok, it's called "Throttle Stop Screw"

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Stolen from Honda IACV explained - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum - EcoModder.com
 
Checked tps voltage. Is at 0.47V which is perfect. Another thing i noticed when working on it tonight is that when the throttle is held just open it surges steadily instead of just sitting at 2000 or 2200. It pulls up and down slightly. My throttle body was dirty, cleaned it, removed air screw and cleaned its passage, tomorrow will remove iac valve and clean it as well. Will try it again then and see what happens.
 
i've been having the same prob in my girl's B20 hatch, cleaned the iacv thoroughly & it didnt make any difference. The car acts up so infrequently that it's been nearly impossible to accurately track down but at this point I'm willing to bet it's the tps, dunno if some dirt or contamination got in there or what. I checked voltage and it's fine but when its acting up you can smack the tps and it calms right down.

will post back as soon as i get a definite solution
 
ALLOW ME TO CLARIFY:

Your problem is the throttle plate adjustment. There is a reason Honda didn't use regular screws on the TPS. You need to adjust the Throttle Stop Screw until the TPS voltage at the ECU reads 0.49V fully closed.

This question has been asked time and again. This is your problem's solution.
 
That does make sense about the rivet for tps, but then what is the reason that honda clearly states to never adjust the throttle stop screw? I have 0.47V, i can't see that being out of the acceptable range for the ecu. I don't mean to doubt you, but i am seeing everything being quite close to where it needs to be. I does feel like there is to much air entering the engine, but has no vacuum leaks, restricted all hoses, no difference. When i checked the air bypass screw it was nearly bottomed out, where as others i've seen in the factory setting have a fair amount of adjustment range if necessary. Any idea where the engine should idle with the iac unplugged?
 
It could also be your tune. Or lack of a tune.

I just realized that nobody asked if you were using the correct ECU.
 
I knew there was a technical term for them, I just couldnt remember, but I knew that they werent rivets.
 
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