READY FOR DYNO!!! 200 + whp NA?

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formby

formby

learning in progress
after about 2 months of delays and machine work she is ready for a break in and tune.

quick specs
99ej6
p28 crome
82mm ls/vtec
GE girdle kit
fully rebuilt b16 head
gasket matched
pro2+ cams degreed in
RS b16 pistons
68mm pro products TB
port-matched PR3 IM
4-1 header
2.25" x 22"resonator
2.5"resonator back exhaust
GSR tranny
quaife LSD
CC 6puck
exedy PP
gator stg2 axles
msd wires
450cc dsm inj

did the whole swap on my own, i did have help sliding it under the car. i started on monday and finished last night and i took tuesday off.

she turned over on the first try after i pressurized it and the idle is great seeing as its not tuned.

tomorrow ill be at central florida turbo for a dyno break in / tune. i am hoping to break into the 200whp and 175wtq.

if you are interested ill be tuning at noon. they have live web cams

central florida turbo - tunedbycft.com | centralfloridaturbo.com :cool:
 
formby said:
2.25" x 22"resonator
2.5"resonator back exhaust
Click to expand...

? Kinda backwards, dontcha think? and 2.5" on a NA motor?

Personally, I'd have gone with like a 3" resonator with a 2.5" exhaust. But then again, I would have also gone with no resonator and a 2 or 2.25" exhaust, just to keep velocity up. Too big is bad.
 
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dyno today at around NOON !!!! red hatch btw

thanks guys. i did spend a lot of time thinking about what parts i will use and even more if they will work together.
also i think the only parts that i am worried about are the JG engine dynamics springs and retainers i used but the machine shop tested them and said the are okay to use. and they claim that they are good upto 12k so we'll see.


from what i gather i will be a little over camed but when i build my ITR cranked B20 i should be on point.

pics/vids when i get them
 
Well i only made 153hp and 106tq... it was reading 200psi on CYL1.

i was told that the mustang dyno reads low and i think that the header and exhaust that it has is taking away at least 20-30hp.

going to do a leak down test and another comp test in a couple days. i'm thinking about milling the head and using a 1 layer HG. to bump up the CR.

i guess i should've gone with the CTR pistons.

i am very disappointed.

also when the cams were degreed in the guy did it wrong and the had to zero them out.

any suggestions?
 
Resonator is too small for your pipes and choking your exhaust, but that isn't costing you 50hp..

Injectors seem to be overkill. Might not be getting good atomization.

Most of the build seems to be built more around strength and durability than power.. Boost that biatch.
 
some one on HT said it might be bent valves and i wouldnt doubt it since i just went to check the oil and it was a qt low. when i look under the car i have a puddle of oil and its from the oil pump area.

FUCK ME... the machine shop has to fix this asap
 
Also, you said one cylinder was compression tested to 200psi? Thats pretty good, but what were the others at?
 
Is your p28 stock, chipped, or do you have some sort of tuning program on it (hondata aem)? That could be a big problem with why your not seeing the dyno numbers your wanting. Hondata took my n/a b16a from 130 whp to 155 and all it has is bolt ons. I think a tune is the best money you can spend. I also know of ppl having problems with the dsm injectors too.... they are cheaper but not as good as rc's. As far as your oil leak goes fix it then decide if its eating oil. Check your external oil line. And remember its not the dyno numbers that matter its what it throws down at the track!!!!!
 
Read. Crome, which is why he is tuning on the dyno in the first place.
 
ok when the car got there it was at the 10deg mark on the right side of the scale on the int gear. they said they looked way off but since it idled perfect they would see what was up. it made 110/88 +/-

then it came off the dyno and they zeroed out the cams and after tuning the ecu and cams it made 150/106. moving the cams one deg made 10hp.

to top it all off my altima which is my beater broke both drive belts. i fixed them last night but when they broke they tore one wire on the AC compressor and now it doesnt work. so i have to drive that altima with no ac in this heat... it sucks
 
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i went to talk to the shop i explained the situation and he told me that he has a 90 warranty against things like this and that he would fix the problem, so i needed to bring it in if i wanted the engine fixed at no cost.

he told me that he needed to check to see what was wrong and that he could not just take my word and buy me parts.



which i understand & i am as broke as i can be with out going hungry or not paying the bills . [my 7 month old is more important than any car so i cant spend more money on this; its supposed to be the last build for a long time.]

He also did not degree the cams in a guy from a shop down did it because his wheel was bent up. so i gave him the benefit of doubt.
he picked up the car and he is going to do a comp test, check the valves, fix the oil pump and take out the pro2s and put in my old set up.
SI int/GSR exh


he said that i would see a psi increase with the stock cams. because the low psi could be overlap on the cams and he recognized the engine should be at around 220-230 psi.

i dropped off a new timing belt and some oil today and ill give him a call by 5pm for an update.
 
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