my first build

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eastbxc

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this was picture i took of my 90 std hatch.....i am new to honda and cars so i figured i would just rebuild this car clean it all up and then go for power once i had learned more about cars before i got in head over heals
 

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well being broke isnt even good ofr a stock rebuild lol
but do some research,
 
for*

Like Injen said, do some research. There are lots of little steps that you need to take that can make or break the build if not done properly.
 
yeah i kinda didnt want to just do a swap and not have a clue on what i was doing and screw it all up
 
Use all stock components, and be sure to hone and crosshatch. Use the correct bearings, and the proper rings for your setup.

It's the break-in that will make your rebuild last.

Trailer -> Dyno Break-in.
That's the best break-in you can do in the USA.

Here I trailer the car to the highway, pull over to a rest-stop, unload, then rape the shit out of it. Speed up, slow down, speed up, slow down, then get off the highway. Then I've got some mountain roads that I rev the piss out of it on. I've never had a motor fail after it's been rebuilt, and a few of mine now have 40k miles after my rebuild.
 
Use all stock components, and be sure to hone and crosshatch. Use the correct bearings, and the proper rings for your setup.

It's the break-in that will make your rebuild last.

Trailer -> Dyno Break-in.
That's the best break-in you can do in the USA.

Here I trailer the car to the highway, pull over to a rest-stop, unload, then rape the shit out of it. Speed up, slow down, speed up, slow down, then get off the highway. Then I've got some mountain roads that I rev the piss out of it on. I've never had a motor fail after it's been rebuilt, and a few of mine now have 40k miles after my rebuild.

i am pretty sure if i told you about the rebuild you would be surprised its running.............before anyone says anything i was working a honda dealership when i did the rebuild over the summer and would work on it alittle each night with a 20+ year honda master tech and he has done the same thing to 2 of his hondas one crx and other 89 hatch...........the car only had 130,000 miles but wouldnt start there was so many oil leaks that it looked like someone painnted the engine bay area black so we just left the motor in and pushed the pistons out the top and replaced the pistons rings and all the oil seals and had the head hot tanked so now it runs great......most people freak when they find out that we didnt pull the motor....sorry its kinda long
 
and also if you look most honda blocks will still have the cross hatchings in them from the factory...my still did and the master tech i talked to said hes pulled heads off honda and seen the cross hatches 250,000 miles on the motor
 
i am pretty sure if i told you about the rebuild you would be surprised its running.............before anyone says anything i was working a honda dealership when i did the rebuild over the summer and would work on it alittle each night with a 20+ year honda master tech and he has done the same thing to 2 of his hondas one crx and other 89 hatch...........the car only had 130,000 miles but wouldnt start there was so many oil leaks that it looked like someone painnted the engine bay area black so we just left the motor in and pushed the pistons out the top and replaced the pistons rings and all the oil seals and had the head hot tanked so now it runs great......most people freak when they find out that we didnt pull the motor....sorry its kinda long

Nah. It's pretty plausable. Why bother pulling the block if there's no need? The only thing that pulling the whole engine accomplishes is making a lot more work. With an honda, because of the way the engine is mounted, this is an easy task.

and also if you look most honda blocks will still have the cross hatchings in them from the factory...my still did and the master tech i talked to said hes pulled heads off honda and seen the cross hatches 250,000 miles on the motor

I like to play it safe and recross-hatch after I check the cylinder round. Might just be a crazy habit of mine though.
 
I like to play it safe and recross-hatch after I check the cylinder round. Might just be a crazy habit of mine though.

Absolutely not a crazy habit. A very smart habit, if anything.

A fresh cross-hatch ensures that a proper break-in is possible. Doesn't guarantee a good break-in though.
 
hey guys im new to the site but building race engines my whole life!
the thing that seperates a master from a rookie is tricks of the trade obviously, the little things in an engine that alot of people dont notice, a pro will immediately! first in your STOCK rebuild to ensure maximum reliability and miles is to take the engine apart piece by piece and check everything. one major thing is at the top of each cylinder check for a ring that most call the carbon ring. take some scotch brite and take that off and see if the rings have wore the cylinder or if the cylinder wore the rings. if the rings put a groove in the top of the cylinder you need to buy a factory oversized piston(.5mm over) and have the block bored and honed! that cross hatch that everyone is talking about is whats gonna save your ass on the build! a cross hatch from honing a cylinder helps seat the rings to the cylinder creating a perfectly round bore and one more note, be sure to offset your ring gaps away from each other to maintain equal ring tension on the bore and it will break in much quicker.
 
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