Here we go.. no start.

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Matts96HB

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Ok, so my car is as follows
96 hatch
b18b1 swap
crower stg 2 turbo cams
crower valvesprings/retainers
je 9.0:1 pistons
eagle rods
turbonetics t4
3" exhaust
walbro 255
450cc injectors (saturated)

I have spark, fuel, and the timing is set to stock (just as the cam spec sheet says) starter kicks over fine, everything sounds like it should, just no start. Also, it seems to be dumping a lot of fuel, which makes me think maybe something is screwy with the timing, but i dunno which way to go with it.
Fuel pump kicks on as well.
Any help would be appreciated.
 
check rotor? mine was loose (screw fell out) and a symptom was turning over/not starting and flooding...otherwise i'm going to go with my stock answer of main fuel relay :D

:shrug2:
 
check rotor? mine was loose (screw fell out) and a symptom was turning over/not starting and flooding...otherwise i'm going to go with my stock answer of main fuel relay :D

:shrug2:

I'm going to check that tomorrow.. and then the relay..

Thanks for the ideas :) I have been drawing blanks all day, and this really helps me. If I can start eliminating problems, hopefully I can get down to what it is. Or maybe just fix it first and not have any problems :D
 
In for the read--same problem with mine. When it starts, it runs great--it just decides when it wants to do it.
 
Checking grounds as we speak. Using a small wire brush to remove any paint that is left in the threads, and even running a couple more grounds just for shits and giggles.
 
In for the read--same problem with mine. When it starts, it runs great--it just decides when it wants to do it.

Sounds like a main relay.

I have spark, fuel, and the timing is set to stock (just as the cam spec sheet says) starter kicks over fine, everything sounds like it should, just no start. Also, it seems to be dumping a lot of fuel, which makes me think maybe something is screwy with the timing, but i dunno which way to go with it.
Fuel pump kicks on as well.
Any help would be appreciated.

Check over all the stupid simple stuff.

Make sure all the plugs (engine, ecu, dizzy) are plugged in firmly, check for blown fuses in both locations, make sure the plug wires are plugged into the dizzy in the correct order, any splices are soldered and solid, power wire to the engine fuse box is installed, solid and clean.. Injectors, sensors, etc all plugged in.
 
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Sounds like a main relay.



Check over all the stupid simple stuff.

Make sure all the plugs (engine, ecu, dizzy) are plugged in firmly, check for blown fuses in both locations, make sure the plug wires are plugged into the dizzy in the correct order, any splices are soldered and solid, power wire to the engine fuse box is installed, solid and clean.. Injectors, sensors, etc all plugged in.

Thats what I'm trying to do, just keep thinking theres probably something I'm missing.. Ill look over the stuff you just suggested today.
 
Still no luck, re-did the dizzy to be sure that it was all in the correct order and what not.. and its in the correct order. dizzy is plugged in firmly, fuse box is good, its getting fuel, and sparking, which leaves one thing really.. the timing..
 
Still no luck, re-did the dizzy to be sure that it was all in the correct order and what not.. and its in the correct order. dizzy is plugged in firmly, fuse box is good, its getting fuel, and sparking, which leaves one thing really.. the timing..
where is it sparking from?wires,cap,and plugs??do you have the correct firing order??
 
Well, the two marks on the cam gears are lined up with eachother, facing eachother toward the middle, and the crank pulley mark is lined up with the mark on the timing belt cover, correct?

If those are all lined up properly, it should run well enough to dial it in properly with a timing gun..

Ummm.. Turbo spinning freely? Vacuum lines hooked up correctly? Factory ecu? Aftermarket management of any sort? Any CELs?

Injectors: Quoted from G2IC Turbo Guide - A Guide to Turbocharging your Honda / Acura Integra Great writeup here, could skim over it to see if you missed something. I'm no turbo pro.
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]AFC Hack[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Components Required[/FONT]

  • [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]450cc Injectors[/FONT]
  • [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]High Flow Fuel Pump[/FONT]
  • [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Apex-I SAFC or VAFC[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]First let me say that 'AFC Hack' is a poor name for this setup. The AFC is not being hacked in any way. Installation of the AFC is per manufacturer's instructions. The only thing that can be considered 'hacked' is the MAP sensor signal wire, but even that is stretching it. This setup is the cheapest way to mimic how a factory turbocharged engine runs. Factory turbocharged engines do not use rising rate fuel pressure regulators to add fuel, they use large injectors instead. Unfortunately adding larger injectors with nothing to control them but the stock Honda computer does not work. The stock computer is tuned for 245cc injectors, adding an injector twice that size will get you twice as much fuel per injector pulse. The most popular source for the 450cc injectors is from the 90-99 manual transmission equipped, turbocharged, DSMs. You can find these injectors for under $100 on ebay.com. These injectors are low resistance, Peak and Hold, injectors which will not run properly on an OBD1 or later engine without some modifications to the engine wiring harness, for OBD 0 (90-91 Integras) no modifications are required. In order to run these low resistance injectors on OBD1 or later engines, resistors must be added to the injector wiring harness. There are 2 ways to accomplish this, wire the resistors inline with each injector or by using the resistor box from a 90-91 Integra. If you chose to wire in resistors inline on each injector wire then you will need 10watt 10ohm resistors (they look like the picture below) which can be found at Radio Shack. Solder one resistor into each black and yellow wire for each injector (see wiring diagram below). If you chose to use the resistor box (see picture below) then you will need to do a bit more cutting and soldering. The resistor box has 4 black wires and one red wire. After cutting the black and yellow wires solder each of the black wires from the resistor box to each of the black and yellow wire that leads to the injectors, it does not matter which black wire in the resistor box goes to which injector. Be sure the black and yellow wires you find are actually the injector wires by checking for continuity on the injector connector. Now we need to connect the red wire from the resistor box to all 4 of the other black and yellow wires. It is best to use a butt connector to do this, if you try to solder all these wires together you will end up with a large ball of solder. See the wiring diagram below for using the resistor box.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
resistor.jpg
[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
AFC_resistors.jpg
[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
resistor_box.jpg
[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
AFC_resistors_box.jpg
[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]If you are not confident working with electronics, or with soldering, then find someone to do the work for you. Solid soldering is very important, having a soldered connection come apart while at full boost would be very bad in this situation. [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]To supply these larger injectors with fuel you will need a high flow fuel pump such as the Walbro 255lph pump. This pump can be installed inline or intank. If running the pump inline, disable the stock fuel pump. Although it is not necessary to remove the stock fuel pump, know that pumping fuel through the disabled stock fuel pump will slightly limit flow rates. The stock fuel lines and the stock fuel rail are good to over 400 horsepower, they do not need to be replaced.[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]With the AFC Hack method of fuel management, the AFC is installed as per manufacturer instructions. The AFC should be set as follows:[/FONT]
  • [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Low/Hi Throttle Setting: 71% 72% (respectively)[/FONT]
  • [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Low Throttle Setting 1000-8000: -40% (negative 40%)[/FONT]
  • [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]High Throttle Setting 1000-8000: -40% (negative 40%)[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]These settings can be adjusted ± 5% to fine tune for your application. Also, if you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (not a rising rate regulator) experiment with raising and lowering the fuel pressures.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]This setup is good to about 12 PSI max since that is the limit of the Honda MAP sensor. This setup is very reliable and more precise than the above methods. [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Check out http://www.thedropshop.tv/vafc.htm and Honda-Tech.com: Forced Induction: h-t afc hack info for more information.[/FONT]

Just tossing shit out there.
 
^ Thanks man, thats extremely handy and I'm gonna bookmark that for future reference.

Anyway, I got it started! Turned out that it was just extremely flooded and the map is really rich at idle. Also, the chip was in backwards at first -_- so fixed that, and it starts just fine now, epic! thanks for the help guys +rep to those I could
 
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