Individual Throttle Bodies.

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Kevoh

New Member
So I've been advised that ITBs are a PITA, when it comes to tuning. My question is, I know they're not as good as F/I but
how much more power can you get from them. It has to be better than just getting an intake right?
And what makes tuning them and maintaining the tune so hard?
They don's seem to be very popular, I actually haven't seen anyone use them.
Any opinions?
Oh also anyone have an opinion about JET ECUs?
 
Is this your daily driver? If so, I'd stay away from ITBs. They're loud, difficult to tune, and more likely to ingest contaminants into the motor then a standard intake would.

And I'd probably avoid the Jet ECU upgrade as well. I haven't heard many positive things about them. What mods do you even have on your engine currently anyway?
 
Yes it's my DD and I don't have any mods to my engine yet, t's completely stock.
I'm just looking around, to see what route to go.
Do they really make a significant power increase to be so expesnive, or do you
have to back it up with raising the compression?
 
Screw ITBs. Pain in the ass, expensive, and not much gain to be had. Certainly not a good HP/$/Effort ratio.

Get a decent header, full exhaust, intake, and a good tune. Then go from there.
 
Will definitely look into it thanks. I'm looking into buying strut bars and an intake first. I've been given different responses so I'm not sure. After installing strut bars I won't need to get an alignment will I.
 
No alignment needed, But if you're going with strut bars, Get them with no pivot points in them. I'd strongly suggest Neuspeed.
 
So there is a difference, I thought about it but thought it wasn't nothing. What's wrong with the ones with pivot points, they're the ones kind of shaped like an X right? Is there anything I need to look out for. Where do you guys get all this info from?? I mean I do my research but it just comes down to asking other people. I appreciate the help.
 
Pivot points allow the bar to move and flex with the car, thereby rendering it ineffective. They are just fake, wanna be bars that look cool. Real bars have no pivot points, because the bar is supposed to add rigidity to the car.

Real:
neuspeed_polishedsmall.gif

Notice the solid construction, welded joints, lack of any pivot points.

Fake:
800px-Strut_bar_ng_sentra.JPG


Notice that there is a single bolt holding each side to the separate mounting brackets. This adds pivot points as well as adjustability to the bar. These are not needed for performance, but are needed so they can sell the same bar for multiple car models. These add very little rigidity vs solid bars and are a complete waste of money. This is why these bars are $30 and neuspeed's are $150.

We get this info from eachother, research, and personal trial and error.
 
Yes it's my DD and I don't have any mods to my engine yet, t's completely stock.
I'm just looking around, to see what route to go.
Do they really make a significant power increase to be so expesnive, or do you
have to back it up with raising the compression?

Heard. Any suggestions on a good ECU once I do that, so I can plan on my budget?

If your engine is stock and all you're planning for right now is bolt-on mods (intake/header/exhaust/etc.) then you don't need to do anything with the ECU really...
 
Heard. I'm not sure what I'll do yet, since I'm a poor man I'm just looking at all options and waiting to see if anything changes financialy as I expect it to. If it does I might just do some bolt ons on this car and get another honda and build something better. So if I do get the bolt ons, all I'll have to do is unplugg the battery for a while, let the ECU zero itself and I'm good to go right?
 
Heard. I'm not sure what I'll do yet, since I'm a poor man I'm just looking at all options and waiting to see if anything changes financialy as I expect it to. If it does I might just do some bolt ons on this car and get another honda and build something better. So if I do get the bolt ons, all I'll have to do is unplugg the battery for a while, let the ECU zero itself and I'm good to go right?

Correct. The ECU can adjust itself to minor modifications (like increased airflow from an after-market intake for example)...
 
The factory ecu can and will adjust to run properly.. But you will still see gains from a tune after intake and full exhaust. And you'll have the ability to tune for when you start digging into the motor with cams, etc.
 
Hello. How was thanksgiving?
So I have a cousing with a 2000 civic ex, he just had a swap for the same stock engine since he blew out the old one(didn't change his oil for months). The new one sucks so bad on low revs and it takes a while for it to build up.
I noticed the revs flactuate, sort of like you keep pumping the gas pedal and letting go. Any ideas what could cause this, is it the valve timing?

Oh yeah I found this stupid website that I can't remeber, it had fake auto-parts just to make fun of people. It had a butt dyno, clutch belt, radiator insulation and all this stuff that does not exist in a real car. So I text my cousin, and I'm like, I think I know what it is. Check your muffler bearings see if they're fine, oh and did they change your clutch belt when they did the swap? He goes, not that I know of, they didn't touch the clutch they just told me it's wearing out. Then I go oh, yeah also check your radiator insulation, you probably don't need a new radiator.
It was so funny how I was messing with him, I should be arrested. He likes cars, but he won't do any research, so he ends being more of a ricer. Has a loud muffler but the car doesn't go anywhere.

Thought I would share this.
 
...ok first off, strut bars are going to be a waste of money for right now. You're not going to notice any handling gains. Start by purchasing some good tires, that's going to yield the greatest results. Then get yourself a rear sway bar. Look at my car related threads, there's a lot of good info from the more knowledgeable members in them. There aren't too many threads to browse through either.
 
I already got some nice rims and tires. Also have new struts on that are stiff enough and still ride pretty good. I love em. I just have to buy 2 new tires for my rear end, then I'm set.
 
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