Changin Pistons Through the Oil Pan!?

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LtWilliamT

New Member
Im about to get a 1995 Acura Integra GSR with the B18C1 motor that just had head work done......It ran great but now i was told one the piston rods are bent. I was thinking bout just goin through the oil pan and replaceing the crank shaft, bearings, and using performance rods, pistons, and rings. Is this possible?

P.S. I have never seen the car in person or heard it.....its comming from a good friend of mine and he just wants to get rid of it.
 
Dude if that works let me know.

Next year some time im putting a wiseco 11.5:1 piston kit with eagle rods and arp rods bolts in.
If you can go through the oil pan that would take .005 as long (lol)

The problems i forsee though are: Getting the piston into the block with the rod (cause well the crank shaft and all) then pushing the piston up and rotating the crank around *which shouldn't be too hard since well there shouldn't be any compression and what not. I don't know sounds like little ninja finger work to me.
 
no, pistons come out through the top. they wont fit out the bottom of the block even with the crank removed.

get to work ;)
 
Thanks turbo.
I kind of suspected it would be too good to be true lol.
 
thanks guys.......this means i need to pull the engine and replace all of the seals right? this is gonna be a real J.O.B.....well im willing to learn
 
this is ghetto but you can just leave the crank in and push the piston out the top...i know that works but its half ass
 
i was just found out that he got the car checked by a technician and he is saying its a lose rod bearing......should i just change the rod and bearings?
 
your probably gonna want to make sure everything is torqued to speak...
IMG_2361.jpg
IMG_2360.jpg
 
OMFG
Wow homie drove that shit a little hard.
:sad:
dude man...wow well atleast you can do forged or r or some other good pistons in there
=)
'

YO BXC you can change the rings by leaving the crank in and pushing the piston out the top no? cause I don't want to yank my block for a rings job if I don't have too...that is if the cylinder wall isn't pwnd
 
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it was because things were not tightened to specs....i did not see these pictures just pictures from another forum
 
i am not sure what wasnt to spec on that particular motor but its a good rule of thumb to just have a chiltons manual to make sure you torque everything to proper specs
 
That looks like the rod caps weren't torqued down properly or someone decided to try and push those stock LS rods a little too far.

Pull your motor, get it tanked, do it right. You don't want to have to do it twice.
 
it is really ghetto but i can say that it has worked and i got the idea from a honda master tech who has done it several times and still not once has it back fired
 
eastbxc said:
it is really ghetto but i can say that it has worked and i got the idea from a honda master tech who has done it several times and still not once has it back fired
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My dad and I have done it too on his EF. It now has 20,000 miles on it running strong.
 
theres a lot of stuff to look into....but i dont see why there wouldnt be room
 
also if you do do this when your putting the rods back in be sure to put something over the rod bolts so you do not scratch up the sidewalls or the crank
 
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