Honda Rot - Temporary Solutions

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BrutalB83

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We all know (or should know) that the only permanent solution to quarter panel rust is to cut out the rusted metal weld new panels in. Let's say however, that I'm buying a beater car with some rot in the quarters, and I'm just wanting to do something cheap and simple to halt the spread of the rust for now, and maybe improve the appearence of it a bit. What would be your suggestions?

And I'm not even wanting to mess with Bondo or anything like that, I'm thinking like 'light sanding and spray on some automotive Rustoleum" type answers. Is that a decent temporary measure? Any other other cost effective (and preferably idiot proof) ideas for temporary Honda Rot management?

I'm pretty much retarded when it comes to body work, so if you know what you're talking about, please educate me... :huh:
 
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The bare minimum is to grind it out and pack it full of bondo. If you want to stop it from getting worse; Does it still have the rubber strip in the wheel well lip? If so pull that off. Get in your trunk with some white lithium grease and spray the heck out of the inside of the wheel wells.
 
sand, rust converter, rattle can?

Yeah, that's what I was thinking. Sand a bit, rust converter, primer, and then color? I've painted valve covers before to good result, so I think I could handle that...

The bare minimum is to grind it out and pack it full of bondo. If you want to stop it from getting worse; Does it still have the rubber strip in the wheel well lip? If so pull that off. Get in your trunk with some white lithium grease and spray the heck out of the inside of the wheel wells.

How hard is Bondo to work with? The extent of my knowledge and experience with paint and body is essentially valve cover painting and using rubbing and polishing compound on scratches. Do you think a complete noobie like me could actually make it look halfway decent with Bondo? Or should I just stick with a light sand, rust converter, and then paint?
 
Bondo work isnt hard, it takes more patience than anything else. You could try the rust converter route first and see how that works. Hit up the local paint/body supplier and ask them for Ospho, its a very very heavy duty rust converter. Make sure to wear rubber gloves and if your using it on concrete to lay down some cardboard, that shit will eat right through concrete. :eek:
 
So, in other words, make sure to be super through with masking and protecting the floor should I decide to use rust converter?


you need to stop the rust by grinding it out, like he said above and use filler. Bondo is ok, but a body shop will have much better shit there. I dont use the "bondo" only the fiberglass filler ( green) cause it can flex really well. As for bondo work its easy, put it on LIGHT coats dont go balls out with it, sand with 220 wet paper to avoid messing any thing else up. If you feel 220 is working to slow put some soap in the water if that dose not work i would not go any lower then 120 and finish up with 220 prime then sand with 400 wet paper. ( Always use a block to sand ) Best intrest for you is not using any rust inhibiters, just grind away.
 
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fiberglass filler works good and it is easy to work with. If you need to mold a corner in you can use wax paper to mold it then peel the paper off as it sets, lighty sand when done and put a thin coat of bondo over to smooth it out
 
the paint you want is POR15. it will stick to rust, and seal so good that the rust cant 'grow' i use it all the time on farm equipment that spends its life in mud. its a glossy black when it drys, but once its dry, you can paint right over it with whatever color you want, and any paint will stick to it.
DONT GET THIS STUFF ON YOUR SKIN!!! you will have black hands for 3-4 weeks before it starts falling off. and dont even bother trying to get it out of clothes, they will be destroyed. wear your junky work clothes.
 
the paint you want is POR15. it will stick to rust, and seal so good that the rust cant 'grow' i use it all the time on farm equipment that spends its life in mud. its a glossy black when it drys, but once its dry, you can paint right over it with whatever color you want, and any paint will stick to it.
DONT GET THIS STUFF ON YOUR SKIN!!! you will have black hands for 3-4 weeks before it starts falling off. and dont even bother trying to get it out of clothes, they will be destroyed. wear your junky work clothes.

Ive used stuff that sounds very similar to that other than its grey and called DP, its great stuff.
 
So this POR15 you just spary it over the rusted area then spray the paint over the top once it dries? Where can you get that stuff at?
 
Have it sand blasted. Then shoot it with bare metal primer and "automotive" rattle can paint just to seal it up really well. Then you can mess with it when you get time.
 
rust repair panels

My 91 Civic had mad Honda Rot and it was driving me crazy. I love the car but it was really frustrating that it was looking so terrible. My wife was even embarrassed to take it to church. I had been looking all over for replacement panels and got a hold of some real cheap at www.fixmyrust.com. The wheel arches were like $31 and the rocker panels were $44. I have some experience welding but could use some tips so my car looks hot again. I would appreciate any help-thanks.
 
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