Overheating Issue

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Matts96HB

Matts96HB

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My buddy just got a 92 hatch. LS/VTEC (b16 head) with a garrett t3 turbo, built pretty stout. stock sleeves. There is one imperfection. Previous owner installed ARP head studs and all of them but one are in. the last one is the stock bolt.

We thought it was the radiator (it was the stock d16 radiator), so we put my larger radiator on there, and that didnt solve it.

If he stays out of boost, it doesn't overheat. After he gets on it, even one or two pulls at 3/4 throttle, shortly after the temp gauge shoots up.

Thermostat has recently been replaced. All hoses hold pressure.

No leaks apparent, no white smoke, nothing. Just is overheating.

Any ideas?
 
You have to get a colder thermostat. Running a colder thermostat will open the thermostat at an earlier time, before the coolant temp reaches a specific temp. I would flush the coolant as well, and put in new. Make sure you put the correct amount in when flushing and run the engine after with the radiator cap off to bleed out any air in the system. The bigger radiator will help, but you may need a bigger one if your moving so much coolant so fast. Keep an eye on your water pump as well, for leaks and the such.
 
INJEN78 said:
they have restrictors to slow down coolant flow,will this work?
Click to expand...

Restrictors in the radiator? The thermostat is what controls the flow of coolant through the loop. It has to reach a desired temperature than it will open to allow coolant to flow.

EDIT: Larger radiators cool more coolant at the same rate. Coolant passes through the radiator, with the help of outside air (when in motion), or the fan (when static), draws the heat out of the coolant through fins.

Also, keep in mind, a radiator fan is useless if mounted in excess of 2-3 inches from the radiator. In that situation, you should use some type of shield sealing the fan to the radiator.
 
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Its holding pressure, we are gonna try flushing the system one more time.
Then a colder thermostat.

And yes, the fan is wired to be on at all times when the car is in the accessory mode. Not my car so I dunno why he did it.
 
well if you have no fluid loss and its holding pressure put a new themostat in there. you can get a bad one from time to time. make sure its in right also. and if all of that is good sounds like a water pump
 
new info today.. his heater doesnt work.

blows air, but its cold.

hmm.

checking tomorrow for clogs, most likely a water pump at this point?
 
im having the same problem.

one of my heater hoses is hot the other is cool. when i adjust the temperature control level the cable moves but i am still not getting any circulation. would this be the heater core or just the valve that opens to allow circulation.
 
my 87 crx take like 20 min to overheat in a stop what could it be it idles fine no leaks
 
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