What would be cheapest

Cheapest to make 300-350WHP Turboed (My car is D16Z6 right now)

  • D16Z6/D16Y8

    Votes: 3 18.8%

  • B18Ax/B1x LS

    Votes: 4 25.0%

  • B16xx

    Votes: 4 25.0%

  • B18Cx

    Votes: 5 31.3%
  • Total voters
    16

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U

Utrax42

New Member
I'm just finishing a slightly built NA D16Z6 motor, and I'm already thinking about what build I want to do next.

My goal for this new build will be around 300~350WHP, Turboed.

Regardless of your opinion of D or B series being Better, What do you think would be cheapest to get to that goal? A built D16 or a Built B 16/18LS/GSR. keep in mind that my car is already set up for a D16Z6. Thanks
 
B20 with a B16 head (for lower compression vs a gsr head), with a turbo and a good tune. More displacement and better flow will give you a big leg up from the start, and will yield much better numbers in the end.
 
the cheapest way would be to turbo the d16 and throw on some nitrous.

cheap and reliable don't go together. nobody should shoot for over 300hp on a budget. do it right or you'll be doing it twice.
 
read my siggy..
do a boosted D or a boosted LS
 
Thanks for the feedback guys. The more I think about it the more I wanna go D. It will be easier to swap, and its not the most commonly built motor. D series are basically all I have experience with, and my brother has built his D so I think it will be the best idea for me for now.
What I'm thinking for the build-
- YCP Vitara Pistons - good for about 395whp on good tune. Anyone have experience with these?
- Eagle rods
- Balanced Assembly. I'd like to rev to 8K at least
- Mill head & block .010" each and use .030" head gasket to bump up to 7:1 EFFECTIVE CR for my altitude. Does anyone know how to calculate the effect of aftermarket cams on CR?
- Adjustable cam gear
- ACL Race Bearings
- Block guard
- PnP
- Stage 2 cam w/ spring/retainers (I would like this to be streetable)
- Maybe hi-flow light weight valves. Would these be necessary or even worth the money?
- Turbo of course but I'll have to research into choosing a proper size
-Walbro Fuel pump? - I'll research to see what they are rated for
- Injector size? I'll have to do some research.
- 50-100 wet shot
- AEM or Hondata for Tuning. A/F gauge w/ wideband O2 sensor. Boost gauge, and what other gauge should I run for safety monitering? I've never tuned before but I'd be up for it with my bros help, and simply work up a PSI or two at a time, and then work up through the Nos shot sizes.
And everything else for a rebuild in OEM or namebrand parts. Oil, water pump. Gates timing belt (good brand or should i use OEM?). All new gaskets/seals ect.

What do you guys think? What could I improve or do to make the setup more reliable?
Thanks again!
 
O and the supporting drive train of course.
How much would I need to build a tranny? I was hoping just LSD diff and maybe carbon synchros in 2nd and 3rd. I don't know much at all about the transmission building so...
upgraded axles
What else could I do in this area?

Rear disc brake conversion & maybe slotted front rotors.
 
if you are doing a full build, you wont need the nitrous. If i were you, i would just get a spare engine and put it on an engine stand and do the full build while you leave the car drivable.
 
95b16coupe said:
if you are doing a full build, you wont need the nitrous. If i were you, i would just get a spare engine and put it on an engine stand and do the full build while you leave the car drivable.
Click to expand...

Wouldn't the nitrous give me oodles of torque and get me spooling faster? Even if I don't use the nitrous on top end, it would broaden my power band right?
yes, I plan on just getting another engine. This build will be over a few years as I'm a poor college student with limited time & resources.
 
i personally wouldn't do both unless it was a track only monster. if you build it right, you wont need both.
 
I'd say B18/B20 as far as ease go. But, since you're starting with a Z6, that's the best route to go. For the price of a LS-swap, you can reinforce your block along with some other goodies.
 
phyregod said:
B20 with a B16 head (for lower compression vs a gsr head), with a turbo and a good tune. More displacement and better flow will give you a big leg up from the start, and will yield much better numbers in the end.
Click to expand...

^^^ agreed, best of both worlds

Though, the words "cheap" and "350whp" don't seem like they belong in the same sentence.
 
Yeah, but that does not mean you have to spend the most money on your setup. There's a difference between "cheapest" and "cheap".

ie: if you started with a D16 block, you can have a setup just as reliable but in the end cost less. Turbos and manifolds cost about the same between the D and B, so you'd have to look at internals and the block itself. B-series would require him to swap, which is like $1000 for a complete swap....and he'd still want to reinforce it wherever possible. With the D16, that would buy you new sleeves if you wanted or even rods+pistons with about $500 to spare(which could be a nice Bisimoto cam ;) ).
 
Utrax42 said:
- YCP Vitara Pistons - good for about 395whp on good tune. Anyone have experience with these?
Click to expand...

I do. In a Mini me setup, Z6 head, ZC block. They hold up, im pushing 20psi easy.

Good for low compression, they dropped mine to 8.1:1.
 
gobs of power on d-series kinda sucks due to unequal axel lengths. even with an lsd, it will walk everywhere.

i vote B-series, if just for the tranny/axle fix
 
Lol, despite the poll, i'm going to go with the D16Z6. I'll upgrade the axles for sure, so hopefully not a lot of torque steer.
Like I said this will be a long term project as I don't plan on overlooking things. Yes I want it to cost as little as possible but I WILL put in the time/money to make it reliable. I guess the important question is What is required for this to be reliable. My biggest concern atm is whether I should sleeve or not.
 
B said:
gobs of power on d-series kinda sucks due to unequal axel lengths. even with an lsd, it will walk everywhere.

i vote B-series, if just for the tranny/axle fix
Click to expand...

That has been brought up many times, but turns out it's not noticeable with an LSD.

Plus, there's equal-length axles already available for D16s....but you lose a LSD unless you have lots of money(or if the DOHC ZC came with one).
 
Utrax42 said:
Lol, despite the poll, i'm going to go with the D16Z6. I'll upgrade the axles for sure, so hopefully not a lot of torque steer.
Like I said this will be a long term project as I don't plan on overlooking things. Yes I want it to cost as little as possible but I WILL put in the time/money to make it reliable. I guess the important question is What is required for this to be reliable. My biggest concern atm is whether I should sleeve or not.
Click to expand...


D series sleeves have been known to hold up to well over 350hp easy on a good tune, the record i believe was set at little over 600hp on stock D sleeves, a matter of fact, on a D16Z6 i believe it was.
 
It later cracked IIRC. Most I heard, that actually held, was around 400hp. Still though, you're in the "high risk" zone. With a good tune you can probably get away with it...but if something goes wrong you may be looking at a new block.
 
For the price of 800 dollar sleeves + machining , I think I'd rather lower my HP goal to an even 300whp, unless my financial situation changes when the time comes to it.
 
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