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95EGCoupeVtec

95EGCoupeVtec

SOHC VTEC at its best
ok well i got my kit on. but i have a few things im concerned about. first off, there is a slight amount of oil coming out of the fitting on the compressor side of the turbo. makes me wonder if my drain line is too low. i did it an inch away from the top of the oil pan so i don't think that's a problem. it could be too much oil pressure going to the turbo. also there is no shaft play. anyway, number two. my bov wont open up. i have my vacuum lines hooked up like shown in this thread:
https://hondaswap.com/forced-induction/turbo-vacuum-help-298811/.
but i'm wondering if i have the bov hooked to the right spot. i wanna go off of the fpr, but i have the line hooked to a vacuum line on the back of the manifold that i guess goes to some black canister. my idle is retarded also it goes up and down, maybe bc of being tee'd into this. also, i took out the wastegate spring so it wouldn't boost but it still boosts, wtf? it spooled a few times to like 5 - 6 psi and u can feel it. and instead of the bov releasing pressure it just backfeeds so i wanna make sure i get the bov set right. Here's pics of everything.

Where my boost gauge is hooked up. this is fine
1010026m.jpg


this is the sensor i have my vacuum line from the bov tee'd to.
1010020.jpg


this is the line and tee i put in. notice the sensor on the right.
1010021.jpg


this is the tee that goes from the bottom port on the WG to the bottom port on the BOV and the nipple on the compressor housing. before i put the zippers on here there was a slight bit of oil on the tee and there was some on the nipple on the compressor housing...
1010022.jpg


this is the bov. the top port goes to the intake manifold sensor line that idk what it is, the bottom line goes to the turbo and WG nipple. how do i adjust the damn thing to release pressure?
1010023.jpg


Sorry for the huge post i need to get these things fixed!!!
 
ok can i tee it off of the fpr along with my gauge? its either that or the vacuum line off of the brake booster but that one's too big. would that also fuck up my idle? it was fine till i tee'd that. and what abou the oil? should i be concerned?
 
Yeah try a different vacuum location on the intake manifold. Sensors usually aren't something to tee off of..
 
ok i got the different spot for the bov vacuum, but what about the oiL? and y would it still be boosting fully with the wastegate spring out?
 
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Why would you take the wastegate spring out? That's just about the only thing holding back boost. Put it back in. Without that your car will literally boost as far as the turbo will go, and you definitely do not want that. The lowest boost pressure you can run is the rating for the spring inside the wastegate man.

In regard to the oil on the compressor, is this kit new or used?
 
Matts96HB said:
Why would you take the wastegate spring out? That's just about the only thing holding back boost. Put it back in. Without that your car will literally boost as far as the turbo will go, and you definitely do not want that. The lowest boost pressure you can run is the rating for the spring inside the wastegate man.

In regard to the oil on the compressor, is this kit new or used?
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the kit is used but there wasn't anything wrong with it when the guy took it off. and i took the spring out bc i want it to not boost i was trying to make sure everything was in working order before i sent my ecu out and put my injectors in. i thought that wiht the wastegate open all the time it would bypass most of the exhaust off of thet turbo making it not spool. the spring has a blue stipe on it. i assume its a 7-9spi spring or 5-7psi.
 
where is the oil coming from? the fitting on the pan, or the threaded one on the snail? is your return on the pan a bolt on flange with threads or welded on? the reason i ask is b/c on my teggy, i used the bolt on style flange on the oil pan(i cant weld) and it leaked from the threads that the 10an return screwed onto. i then noticed it leaking from the feed line threads too. thats when i learned that teflon tape or thread sealant is a MUST. maybe give that a try...? not sure if im understanding the problem tho....? good luck with the fix!!!
 
plz excuse the multi-post, but if u dont use a vacuum rail/log, its best to tee all vac sources from the same place(wg/bov/gauges/fmu) its important to have consistency in the system. use the intake mani.

also u asked if the oil leak is a concern......YES

also also, if u want low boost, tial sells 0.25bar(3.5psi) springs for 38mm wg's. i had one on the hatch when i was running an fmu and didnt want ridiculously high fuel press. its a good alternative when youre pre-tune.

and just curious, but, what is your fuel/spark management at this point?
 
the leak is coming from the fitting on the compressor side only. it doesn't have teflon. all the other barbs on the car have teflon. and i have NO TUNE as of right now. im merely testing everything n make sure it all works before i install my dsm injectors and resistor box and get my ecu chipped. also SLOWdelawareEG, do u have a link to that spring? i might wanna do that so i can safely drive my car to get my downpipe done and drive it to work.

EDIT: the drain line on the pan is bolted and welded. on the inside of the pan the bolts are welded in place. I WONDER IF THERE"S TOO MUCH OIL PRESSURE? MAYBE I SHOULD RUN A RESTRICTOR?
 
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95EGCoupeVtec said:
the leak is coming from the fitting on the compressor side only. it doesn't have teflon. all the other barbs on the car have teflon. and i have NO TUNE as of right now. im merely testing everything n make sure it all works before i install my dsm injectors and resistor box and get my ecu chipped. also SLOWdelawareEG, do u have a link to that spring? i might wanna do that so i can safely drive my car to get my downpipe done and drive it to work.
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then thats probably your problem--put some teflon or other sealant on those threads!! save some oil!!

im not yelling at you because you obviously dont know but......the no tune is BAD BAD--fucking crazy BAD. you can plan on grenading your motor on the way to the shop. get an FMU for the time being($40 shipped ebay) you absolutely have to have at least FUEL correction. the fact that youve driven your car at full boost with no fuel/spark correction is ridiculous. ive seen catastrophic failure from "one test run" hahahaha. believe me its NOT WORTH IT!! even when not under boost, the i/a temps are waaaaay too high--please dont drive it anymore. even if it doesnt break on the spot, theres no telling how many 1000s of miles youre taking off the life of your motor for when it is tuned:(
 
yeah i noticed from putting around in it that the turbo and manifold stays very hot afterwards. i guess i'll take the fitting off of the compressor side n teflon it. thx for the advice man. and it hasn't been boosted that much, maybe only 4psi tops. trust me i only drive it that one time.
 
95EGCoupeVtec said:
yeah i noticed from putting around in it that the turbo and manifold stays very hot afterwards. i guess i'll take the fitting off of the compressor side n teflon it. thx for the advice man. and it hasn't been boosted that much, maybe only 4psi tops. trust me i only drive it that one time.
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like i said, i wasnt flaming you like many of the stuck up douchebags(you know who you are) on this site would have. but im telling you, 1psi is WAAAAY too much on a stock fuel system. for all you know youve weakened your rods and ring lands to the point that when they see 10psi tuned, they break anyway. not sayin its the end of the world, just dont be suprised.

My advice: DO NOT drive your car until you

1) fix the leaks, 2)get a basemap(from your tuner), 3)install your large injectors

after that LIMP that bitch to wherever youre getting your piping done then STRAIGHT to the dyno(no "street tune"). basemaps arent exactly safe and in my experience they run alot better if from a reputable shop thats doing the tuning:D
 
If you are worried about driving it to get tuned or driving it to work here is what you do. This is simple and works. I did it for my prelude. Disconnect your ic piping where it goes into your tb. Then put a filter on there. Then you are n/a still but everything else is turbo, it just boosts into the atmosphere. But firat fix all leaks. And wait on your injectors untill you have your ecu and are ready to tune. Then either while you are at the shop to dyno or right before you go install all that other stuff. Trust me i have learned all of this the hard way. I just got my motor rebuilt, and now it is broke in. Put 1200 miles on it in a week. Tomorrow i am going to get it tuned.
 
SLOWdelawareEG u make me worried that 1psi is too much. lol like full throttle isn't safe either. if that makes sense. anyway the car is sitting there till i get the injectors n ecu done. oh yeah and the basemap is from xenocron so it should be good. but all in all, i definately dont wanna break my pistons lol.
 
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the fitting that has oil coming out is the small vacuum nipple that's threaded into the compressor housing, not either of the oil line fittings.
 
SLOWdelawareEG said:
again, teflon homey!:D
Click to expand...

yeah i know i should use teflon there. should any oil be getting into the compressor housing anyway? idk i nvr had that prob before. so should the car be ok it i take one of the couplers off so the boost doesn't go into the motor?
 
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