slim fan not cooling enough??

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HATCHET_HONDA

scottie fizzle
ok so i have a b16 swap in my 90 dx. well i just got it together and running again and shes running hot. i mean hot!! the damn t bar for the hood latch is even hot! no smoke, not burning coolant.... i have a aluminum full size rad and a slim fan. fan kicks on and works fine but doesnt seem to help much. maybe itd work better if it was pulling ait and not pushing air? could it be the fan isnt big enough and since the rad is allllll aluminum its not cooling at all? i mean that fucker gets soooper like surface of the sun hot! wtf! my d15 barely reads a quarter the way up on the temp guage and runs sooper cool. this sucks
 
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double check that your fan is actually wired to push instead of pull.

so the gauge moves into the dangerzone? my aluminum dualcore radiator is hot as fuck too, but it doesnt go above 2/5. im not running a fan. i would move your fan to the inside, pulling the air in.... and wire the fan to do so.
 
Did you 'burp' the cooling system? I usually drill a few 1/8" holes around the flange of the t-stat because I've seen brand new ones jam or cock slightly open and not let enough coolant thru.
It doesn't sound right.. It shouldn't get that hot.
You may have a dry crack in the head..? From a 'cold' start, how long is it before it starts to climb up past 180? If it's like 4-10min (@idle) there might be other issues.

E
 
What kind of other issues are you talking about when you say after idling 4-10min? I also have that problem. I have a new 2 core aluminum radiator with new fan and mine is overheating at an idle in about the 4-10 min. Actually the bottom hose seems to stay pretty cool to the touch. Any ideas? I am new to this Honda motor stuff. Just piked up a 93 civic with the b16A motor installed.

Dave
 
From a 'cold' start, if your temp rises quickly it usually means a cracked head from my experience and of course, the tell tale white smoke is usually a blown head gasket (coolant getting into the combustion process)
If I were you I'd drain the coolant, access the thermostat, remove (hopefully without damaging rubber gasket) look around the base of the plunger on the T-stat or spring for scuffing or rubbing marks proving it's cocking as it moves. If so, replace. If not drill the little holes that I recomended a few threads up and re-instsall with one or more holes in the 'up' position, again just using water, run with bleeder craked open (looks like a 12mm bolt with a little tower on top with a hole thru the center. Like a BIG brake bleeder.

Have that open enough to get a good flow of water/steam/bubbles coming out. Slowly tighten said bleeder until when you rev the motor using the accelerator cable to about 2000rpms and NO more foam/bubbles come out. Just coolant or water.
If you get a lot of foam/bubbles, tighten bleeder, hold upper rad hose ( in addition to keeping an eye on the gauge) and feel for expansion or the compression from the combustion process getting imto the cooling system. If so, something is cracked or degraded somewhere.

On a average motor, the temp should take several min to even get warm notwithstanding the fans coming on. Some of my cars fans wouldnt' come on for about 15+min. But since it gets ssoo hot down here that I just can't rely on a thermo switch going bad, So I just bypass them where the fan is switched on with the ign key.

I hope this can help you or others.

E
 
After replacing the thermo, new antifreeze , bleeding the system, I was still getting overheating at idle. Running it with radiator cap off it was still purging out like a volcano with the bottom radiator hose still cool to touch. I suspected a bad head gasket so I tore into that, I took head to a shop and it was checked and NO problems found at all. During that process I went to remove the water pump which I was going to replace anyway with a new one and upon removing it the impeller was broken right off of just sitting there. The pulley turned nicely and it made no noise. Who would have have guessed it was broken??
I guess I should have pulled it off 1st before removing the head, Oh well ,,, at least I have all new gaskets and cleaned up motor and was able to look at the top end, valves and cylinders which were all in awesome shape. Being I just purchased this car at least I know what I have now. Lesson to be learned!!!
 
Bad Water pump found for overheating problem

After replacing the thermo, new antifreeze , bleeding the system, I was still getting overheating at idle. Running it with radiator cap off it was still purging out like a volcano with the bottom radiator hose still cool to touch. I suspected a bad head gasket so I tore into that, I took head to a shop and it was checked and NO problems found at all. During that process I went to remove the water pump which I was going to replace anyway with a new one and upon removing it the impeller was broken right off of just sitting there. The pulley turned nicely and it made no noise. Who would have have guessed it was broken??
I guess I should have pulled it off 1st before removing the head, Oh well ,,, at least I have all new gaskets and cleaned up motor and was able to look at the top end, valves and cylinders which were all in awesome shape. Being I just purchased this car at least I know what I have now. Lesson to be learned!!!
 
crazy, water pump is usually the last suspect in a cooling problem because they almost never fail like that. Usually the worst thing a water pump does is start leaking. Glad you figured it out!
 
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