I'm an idiot and I need help with my husbands car

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

HSHoochie

Junior Member
My husband has a 1990 Civic si and is in need of replacing the "Electronic Load Detention module"??? I called Napa and they have never heard of this. I found a somewhat part # (A-8460) but I cannot find it anywhere. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement part? Or even where it is located in the car? He originally thought he needed an alternator, but alas, he does not.

Yes, I realize my name is Hoochie. LOL
 
It starts but if you disconnect the battery it dies. It's only running at about 12.5 volts. It's supposed to be 14. The battery light is on, if you start the car and disconnect the alternator the battery light goes off and the car still runs.
 
it should be in the fuse box under the hood
 
It starts but if you disconnect the battery it dies. It's only running at about 12.5 volts. It's supposed to be 14. The battery light is on, if you start the car and disconnect the alternator the battery light goes off and the car still runs.
sounds like a bad alternator to me.
 
sounds like a bad alternator to me.

That's what I said so he went to get one and it says this on the parts sheet,
"Reman; 60 Amps; INSTALLATION ALLERT! This application uses an "Electronic Load Detector" in conjunction with the Electronic "something (can't read the sheet is cut off)" regulate alternator output. Follow prescribed test procedure for a "no charge" condition.; See Tech Tip #626
Then I did some research online and saw this,
"Honda/Acura models built after 1988 may experience rough idle, stalling or low/no altnernator output. This has been traced to failure of the ELD (electronic load detention) module. This module is designed to improve fuel economy by almost shutting the alternator off during light throttle and idle. If this module malfunctions, the ECM losses a sensor and the above listed symptoms appear. A code 20 may also be set." Then it has part No. A-8640
WTF???
 
well you can always take the alternator to autozone ect ect, and they can put it on a bench tester to see if its good or not
 
well you can always take the alternator to autozone ect ect, and they can put it on a bench tester to see if its good or not
I could try that. He doesn't get out of work until 4.
It sucks because the car is awesome. Totally stock. One owner. It only has 37K original miles!
 
I could try that. He doesn't get out of work until 4.
It sucks because the car is awesome. Totally stock. One owner. It only has 37K original miles!


With charging problems. What a piece of junk. You should sell it to me!!!:ph34r:

Ok, ok...

The code 20 indicates there is a problem in the Electric Load Detector Circuit. What this circuit does is monitor the loads placed on the engine by the alternator, A/C and headlights, among others. When an additional load is detected, the PCM raises the idle speed to compensate. The PCM has detected a fault in the system and turned the light on.

Here's how to test the system:


Remove cover from main fuse panel located in engine compartment, then disconnect electrical connector from electric load detector unit.


With ignition switch On, check for battery voltage between electrical connector positive (black/yellow wire) terminal and negative (black) terminal.


If battery voltage is present, proceed to step 4. If no voltage is present, check for the following:


Check for blown No. 14 fuse in instrument panel fuse box.


Check for open circuit in black/yellow wire between instrument panel fuse box and main fuse panel in engine compartment.


Check for improper ground (black wire) connection.


With ignition switch On, check voltage between electric load detector electrical connector green/red terminal and ground. Voltage should be approximately 4.5 to 5 volts. If voltage is as specified, proceed to step 5. If voltage is not as specified, check green/red wire between electric load detector and PFI electronic control unit. If wiring is satisfactory, electronic control unit may be at fault.


Connect electrical connector to electric load detector unit.


With ignition switch in On position and headlamps on at low beam, check voltage at green/red wire terminal at electric load detector unit electrical connector. Check voltage with connector still installed on unit. Voltage should be approximately 2 volts. If voltage is as specified, electric load detector unit is satisfactory. If voltage is not as specified, engine compartment main fuse panel and electric load detector unit must be replaced as an assembly.



honda_load_sensor_634b.gif
 
i think i might have the fusebox if it helps..
 
Don't waste your time testing it. 9 times out of 10 it is a blown fuse under the dash... the "alt" fuse under the dash is likely blown. Test all of them to be sure. If thats not the problem, the fuse box under the hood will need to be replaced. However, i don't recall a EF having an ELD, I would double check that. Does this vehicle have an OBD-I swap or ECU conversion?
 
CRX does have a ELD. I know this because I had the same CEL and fixed it by swapping fusebox(I had to swap all of my fuses too in case you were wondering; bought the fusebox "barebone") That picture Phyregod posted up is from a CRX.
 
Back
Top