DOHC ZC- What does this code mean??

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I swapped a dohc zc into my 91 civic si hatch. I looked at the ecu and it blinks 10 times, then 7 times, then 10 times, then 7 times!! Anyone know what this means?? Its the ecu from my 91 hatch.. Is it doing this because of the wrong ecu?? It still runs good.. I dont want to run into any probs before its too late.. Thanks!!!
 
this is the code for your intake air temp. sensor #10 and thorttle positions sensor and the reason it blinks again is because it repeats its self... there should be a break in between the the code flash.. but check your plugs and wires
 
Did you get the motor with a broken TPS and have to add one yourself? If so, then you have to set it in the correct parameters using a voltmeter. The specs are .5v @ idle and 4.5v @ WOT. If the TPS was fine when you got the motor, it could have taken a shit or somethings up with the wiring. It's real common for the wires in our old ass cars to get brittle and start breaking away from the plugs. Same goes for the Intake air temp sensor...

thats code 17...try resetting the ecu
That's not 17. 17 would be 1 long blink then 7 quick blinks.

my vtec is not kicking in and check engine light is on now dont have plug to test it its a swap b20b and gsr every thing else and p28 reves high now also what could be wrong
Start your own thread...
 
Did you get the motor with a broken TPS and have to add one yourself? If so, then you have to set it in the correct parameters using a voltmeter. The specs are .5v @ idle and 4.5v @ WOT. If the TPS was fine when you got the motor, it could have taken a shit or somethings up with the wiring. It's real common for the wires in our old ass cars to get brittle and start breaking away from the plugs. Same goes for the Intake air temp sensor...

That's not 17. 17 would be 1 long blink then 7 quick blinks.

Start your own thread...


Ya, thanks for the back up... for all 3 of these ppl that sounds correct
 
That's not 17. 17 would be 1 long blink then 7 quick blinks.
OBD0 D-series ECUs (OP has a PM6) do not have long and short blinks - you just count the number of times it blinks, between pauses - 17 blinks is code 17, 20 blinks is code 20, 15 blinks is code 15, etc. - if you don't believe this, take a car with OBD0 D-series ECU that has no codes showing and unplug the EACV, start it up and when the check engine light comes on, shut it off and read the code - you will find that it blinks 15 times

if it blinks 10 times, pauses, and blinks 7 times, it has 2 codes, one for code 10 and one for code 7 - if it blinks 17 times without a pause, it is code 17
 
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it blinks 10 times then pauses, then 7 times then pauses. and now my car is running like shit. it wants to bog out and stall. and the car jerks a little. any ideas?
 
OBD0 D-series ECUs (OP has a PM6) do not have long and short blinks - you just count the number of times it blinks, between pauses - 17 blinks is code 17, 20 blinks is code 20, 15 blinks is code 15, etc. - if you don't believe this, take a car with OBD0 D-series ECU that has no codes showing and unplug the EACV, start it up and when the check engine light comes on, shut it off and read the code - you will find that it blinks 15 times

if it blinks 10 times, pauses, and blinks 7 times, it has 2 codes, one for code 10 and one for code 7 - if it blinks 17 times without a pause, it is code 17
Got'cha. I didn't know d series used a different morse code style than B series. Goes to show i don't waste my time on the paper weight d series motors :ph34r: lol j/k
 
it blinks 10 times then pauses, then 7 times then pauses. and now my car is running like shit. it wants to bog out and stall. and the car jerks a little. any ideas?
code 10 is for the Intake Air Temp sensor - we usually see this on a new swap when the wrong connector is plugged into the IAT sensor - should be a white 2-wire connector with red with yellow stripe and green with white stripe wires - the 2-wire connector with blue and black/yellow wires shouldn't be connected to anything

code 7 is for the Throttle Position Sensor - sensor could be bad or needing recalibrated or something wrong or loose in the wiring to the connector

fix the codes, reset the ECU and the idle may resolve itself

once you turn the key off, the Check Engine Light goes off and stays off until the ECU detects another problem - the codes still remain in the ECU until you reset it

fluctuating idle could be caused by low coolant level, air pocket in the cooling system, vacuum leak, EACV not working correctly or MAP not working correctly
 
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