Cel 10 OBD1

[RoughKnight]

Yes, here we go. I took a few pictures to help out.
I'm running a D15B obd1(not 3stage), and code 10 keeps poping up. I'm pretty sure I have the right wires plugged. Also, where is the EVAP plug for the sensor? It's just dangling there...

Pics are in attachments. This is getting ridiculous, ever since I did this swap its been problem after fucking problem. This thread is on instant notification so I will answer back almost immediately.

It runs rich, and the tuner will NOT take my $450 to chip and tune my car until the cels are all gone. Lose lose situation so far.

 

[RoughKnight]

Bump for shiny engine bay pic

 

[tjscivic]

I have been reading around and I came up reset the ecu if that dont work check the voltage at the harness side and if that dont work replace the sensor.

 

[RoughKnight]

Hmm...I'll show the Honda Manual to my mechanic and have him check the voltage from d15 to d22 and the other one, can't remember atm. It's just that I want to go boost, and the tuner will NOT let me tune the car for N/A (next year going turbo) for my 150hp goal if the ecu is still showing check engine lights. Is there any way to clean the sensor? Its the one adjacent to the drivers side, with two screws holding it and you have to plug it in facing directly up?

 

[reikoshea]

you've got the wires plugged in wrong. that one that's just dangling (red and yellow) is for your IAT sensor. which is what's throwing your code. fix that and all should be well.

 

[RoughKnight]

I tried replacing both into the slot where the one is now, and reset the ecu. Both dont work. I was researching and found out that the one with the SOLID red wire (the dangling one) is for my EVAP.

brand new iat sensor - Honda-Tech
Quote:
2P IAT = Red/Yel and Grn/Wht

2P IACV = Yel/Blk and Grn/Wht

2P Purge Solenoid = Yel/Blk and Red

3P TPS = Yel/Wht, Red/Blu, and Grn/Wht



So what now?

 

[reikoshea]

well you could do this:

pull the sensor. see how many ohm's its passing at room temperature (cold). Then use a hair drier on it for a minute or so. Test again. See you manual for acceptable readings. If they are out of range then the sensor is bad. If they are in range then the wiring is likely bad.

 

[RoughKnight]

Okay finally somebody on the right track,
In the morning, when I just fresh start the car, the cel comes on. After the car warms up to operating temp completely, the light goes away if I turn off/turn on the car. So i'm guessing thats your hairdryer trick. Now is it faulty? Or is the wiring faulty?

 

[reikoshea]

its probably giving a bad reading in cold state (bad reading meaning reading outside of normal resistance).

 

[RoughKnight]

So does it need to be replaced? Or are my wires still messed up?

 

[reikoshea]

replaced.

 

[RoughKnight]

kk i'll get on that

 

[RoughKnight]

while we're on the subject
where does the evap plug go? I dont think i have the sensor for it or I need it cause its' not throwing a code

 

[reikoshea]

while we're on the subject
where does the evap plug go? I dont think i have the sensor for it or I need it cause its' not throwing a code

I'd say RTFM for where the plug goes. As long as there's no CEL and you're not in cali it doesn't REALLY matter. just hope it doesn't end up in a ghost limp mode.

 

[RoughKnight]

RTFM?
Ravish The Fucking Manual?
And ghost limp mode?

 

[reikoshea]

RTFM?
Ravish The Fucking Manual?
And ghost limp mode?

limp mode without a CEL. i made up the term

 

[RoughKnight]

hmm
does the old one off my d15b7 work? is there even one on that engine? I jsut went to the mechanics today and i saw he still has it there, maybe I could switch it up?