Timing belt loose with pics..WTD?

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mynumber1hater

New Member
Timing Help with pics
1. What piston should I put the motor on for TDC?
2. Do the cam gears look lined up right?
3. Why does the crank pulley marks not line up with the timing pointer on the timing cover? Also there are 3 marks on the crank pulley. What mark should line up with the timing pointer on the timing cover?
4. I know the tensioner is loose or broken so there is a lot of timing belt slop and it is making a lot of noise.
5. Compression test done 250psi plus, on all 4 cylinders.
6. If the cam gears are lined up why is the crank not lined up with the timing cover?
7. The set up:
8. B18c1 bottom end
GSR crank and rods
CTR .25 over pistons (PCT)
ARP head studs
ITR water pump
B16A oil pump
NEW tensioner
DC sports 4-1 header
HEAD:
B16A head, ported and polished, 5 angle valve job
ITR cams
ITR valve springs and retainers
ITR injectors
B16 intake

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the cam marks are almost right..they need to be pointing level with the top of the head..they look to be pointing downward a little bit..you need to set cyl. 1 to TDC...which is the single mark to the right of the 3 timing marks..
so loosen the belt,redo the timing,rotate it about3-5 cam teeth then tighten it up again..rotate the motor by hand one full revolution and recheck everything..
 
the cam marks are almost right..they need to be pointing level with the top of the head..they look to be pointing downward a little bit..you need to set cyl. 1 to TDC...which is the single mark to the right of the 3 timing marks..
so loosen the belt,redo the timing,rotate it about3-5 cam teeth then tighten it up again..rotate the motor by hand one full revolution and recheck everything..

The mark with the big green arrow????? rotate the CRANK 3-5 teeth and leave the cam gear pointers lined up with the head? TDC on the compression stroke?
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Timing is a bitch, which you probably already know by now.

The last pic of the crank pulley, always line up the GREEN arrow to the mark on the lower timing cover. Get your cams set (the exhaust cam should be tilted slightly towards the back of the engine.. meaning that the intake cam should be SPOT ON and the exhaust cam angled a little towards the intake side of the engine).

After you've done that, put the 19mm wrench on the end of the crank and turn the crank COUNTERCLOCKWISE so that the cam gears rotate about 3 teeth. This will pull the slack out of the belt in between the two cam gears, and will also pull the exhaust camshaft forward so that it will line up with the intake cam. Once you have all of the tension on the front and top of the belt, tighten the tensioner. Rotate the engine counterclockwise back to TDC on CYL#1 (which is also when the green mark aligns with the lower timing cover mark) and make sure everything is lined up perfectly and tensioned properly.

Then, turn the motor counterclockwise one more time. This time, stop about every 30 degrees or so and push on the front, top, and rear of the belt to check for tension. It should be equally tensioned all the way across the belt for the full duration of a revolution.

Good luck
 
Timing is a bitch, which you probably already know by now.

The last pic of the crank pulley, always line up the GREEN arrow to the mark on the lower timing cover. Get your cams set (the exhaust cam should be tilted slightly towards the back of the engine.. meaning that the intake cam should be SPOT ON and the exhaust cam angled a little towards the intake side of the engine).

After you've done that, put the 19mm wrench on the end of the crank and turn the crank COUNTERCLOCKWISE so that the cam gears rotate about 3 teeth. This will pull the slack out of the belt in between the two cam gears, and will also pull the exhaust camshaft forward so that it will line up with the intake cam. Once you have all of the tension on the front and top of the belt, tighten the tensioner. Rotate the engine counterclockwise back to TDC on CYL#1 (which is also when the green mark aligns with the lower timing cover mark) and make sure everything is lined up perfectly and tensioned properly.

Then, turn the motor counterclockwise one more time. This time, stop about every 30 degrees or so and push on the front, top, and rear of the belt to check for tension. It should be equally tensioned all the way across the belt for the full duration of a revolution.

Good luck

Ok, what if when i line up the green arrow mark to the time cover pointer, the cam gears are off... The reason is my tensioner cam lose mabe jumped a few teeth of timing. Should i line up the cam gears and remove the timing belt then adj the crank with its marks?
 
you should set the crank to tdc,then set the camgears to their spots..put the belt on the exhaust cam then over the intake cam,make sure the tensioner is loose while doing so,then rotate the crank shaft towards the front of the car,this will make the cam gears move,as soon as the cam gears move about 3 teeth,tighten the piss out of the tensioner and rotate the cranksgaft 1 complete revolution..
 
I will get on it this weekend.. Hope to drive it monday... If you think of anything else LMK..

pic of the car:
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Clean car. What'd you say you were tuning with? I'd get it back to factory and have the ECU chipped and tuned for your exact setup. IMO, that's the only way to do it.
 
Clean car. What'd you say you were tuning with? I'd get it back to factory and have the ECU chipped and tuned for your exact setup. IMO, that's the only way to do it.

Im not tuning it with anything... Plan to adj the deg of timing this weekend and adj fuel pressure too. I have not had a chance to even look at the car this week. But i think when i first got it the FP gauge was on like 60psi..... But if that does not do it to take it to a tuner??? The one i found so far wants 450... dude thats a lot to tune a 4cyl.
 
$450 isnt a bad price at all if the guy knows what he is doing. It is next to impossible to get the car running right by just adjusting the fuel pressure. It sounds like you got some money into your build, so you want to finish it the right way. The tuning is where your going to pick up your real power, trust me on this one. It will be the most important $450 you spent so far.
 
Im not tuning it with anything... Plan to adj the deg of timing this weekend and adj fuel pressure too. I have not had a chance to even look at the car this week. But i think when i first got it the FP gauge was on like 60psi..... But if that does not do it to take it to a tuner??? The one i found so far wants 450... dude thats a lot to tune a 4cyl.

This is going to be a long post, bear with me here.

I'll start by making an example out of my build. Keep in mind that my car is turbocharged, but the same philosophy applies.

I built my engine from the ground up. I ordered a chip that was supposed to be close to a tune from phearable.net. The car ran extremely rich and would barely even run through the RPM's. I told him my setup right down to the very last nut and bolt.

I had Cody tune my car, and from the very second he started making changes to the map, the car ran 100x better. You simply cannot replicate tuning with a wideband and making realtime changes. Fool with the fuel pressure all you want, but your build is not going to reach it's full potential until you get it professionally tuned.

You've got a fairly built engine. You've come all this way, why skimp out on the factor that's going to make it all worth it? Find a reputable tuner, have your ECU chipped and tuned, and get it done right. Good luck to you.
 
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