Car dies after a short vtec run

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bakerderek0

Up a Creek...
I am about to lose my mind with the car I've been dealing with for the past 2 months.

The car has: 94 EG Hatch Chassis; B16A Block; B16A2 Head (stamped 99'); P72 ECU.

Issue:
1)Has a roaming Idle

2)I take the car for a ride approx 4 miles long. I hit vtec a couple of times, but never go over 6000 rpm. When I get to the end of the street, the car will die if I don't rev the motor. If I try to restart immediatly, the engine will barely turn over and usually not start. I have to just sit for 2-3 minutes, then it fires right up. I get it home asap without stopping and it dies agin in my driveway.

Steps Taken:

1) Check TPS Voltage - GOOD
2) Check IACV Function and Clean - GOOD
3) Check Vacuum Lines - GOOD
4) Check Cam Timing - GOOD
5) Check Alternator - GOOD
6) I've set the idle at 800, but it roams between 500 and 1500
7) Check O2 Sensor - GOOD

I'm all out of ideas here....There is no FITV either. I followed the vac system from a 99' civic si helms. The EG canister is different from the EK's , but I think I've got it set right.

CEL's: 10 - Intake Air Temp Sensor, I don't have one on here. The connector is just zip tied to the fire wall,
Knock Sensor - Not wired up.

Any Ideas? Maybe the ECU? Maybe the charcoal canister needs to be swaped to an EK version?
 
Nothing says "You're Screwed" better than silence...

I really need the opinion of someone who has put a b16a2 in an EG before, and can tell me how they routed the vac lines. or what steps were taken to make the vac system work.
 
Ok, here's a plan...I'm going to plug off all the lines running to the canister when I get home and see how things operate. I understand, this is done frequently and that the cannister system is just for emmisons and won't effect the operation of the engine if I take it out.
 
try the IAT
the symtpoms sound like the IAT is messed up

as i reread your post your cel'ing for the sensor i told you is fked up
go figure eh?
:D hope it helps
 
RoughKnight said:
try the IAT
the symtpoms sound like the IAT is messed up

as i reread your post your cel'ing for the sensor i told you is fked up
go figure eh?
:D hope it helps
Click to expand...

I just don't have the IAT hooked up because I don't have the sensor. I'll pick one up from this afternoon and give it ago. I just didn't think it would cause any issues. Thanks
 
bakerderek0 said:
I just don't have the IAT hooked up because I don't have the sensor. I just didn't think it would cause any issues. Thanks
Click to expand...

naive, but its the source. I had my iat fked when the guy sold me my engine, changed it and its good to go. Its very important sensor; it tells the ecu what the air temp is right before combustion so the ecu can regulate fuel mix appropratly. No signal means you'll run under ghost limp mode because the car knows its on, but after a while the car will think that no air is getting to the engine there for no fuel should go into it aka why your car spudders for a bit. Until you change it, when you find the car dying off, pull of to the side (or if your an idiot like me while still rolling) turn it off, wait 2 seconds and turn it back on with your foot down on the throttle the whole way. It'll reset that shit.

BUT FIND ONE. +rep :d
 
RoughKnight said:
naive, but its the source. I had my iat fked when the guy sold me my engine, changed it and its good to go. Its very important sensor; it tells the ecu what the air temp is right before combustion so the ecu can regulate fuel mix appropratly. No signal means you'll run under ghost limp mode because the car knows its on, but after a while the car will think that no air is getting to the engine there for no fuel should go into it aka why your car spudders for a bit. Until you change it, when you find the car dying off, pull of to the side (or if your an idiot like me while still rolling) turn it off, wait 2 seconds and turn it back on with your foot down on the throttle the whole way. It'll reset that shit.

BUT FIND ONE. +rep :d
Click to expand...

Exactly what I needed to hear. I'll post results this evening!
 
GOOD NEWS - IAT CEL is off with the install of a new IAT sensor.

BAD NEWS - It didn't fix the erratic idle or engine dying problems...

I capped the vac lines running to the cannister. I took pictures to show which ones...
https://hondaswap.com/members/bakerderek0/albums/303/1854.jpg
https://hondaswap.com/members/bakerderek0/albums/303/1853.jpg

I didn't mess with the vac line running from the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Should I go ahead and plug that one?

The only CEL I have is the knock sensor that's not hooked up.

I also noticed a noise that I thought was the main bearing, but it turns out it has something to do with the timing belt system. Because I can see the timing belt vibrate and "whine" between the cam and the water pump gear. I took a video, so it could be seen and heard. It's hard to see the belt vibrating on camera, but it's very noticeable in person. You see it twist best towards the end when I find the right angle. Listen for the "whining" over my bad LMA's....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4AxFgMTzfKY
 
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Im currently watching a comedy show, and I haven't gotten around to watch the
video... But stupid question


Did you reset the ECU yet? :p


In-writing edit: you must have to clear the cel, I'll watch the vid when I get home pce
 
Is the p72 ecu chipped to run the p30 maps? Never bothered to ask cause I just assumed.

Just watched the vid, sounds like a loose belt. Just get a mechanic or yourself to put a little extra uumf to all the belt areas. Get the p30 or a professional tune if it's not chipped for it, and go to Homda and get an all around general tune up. Sounds like you are Lon overdue for one.
 
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I've been thinkin of getting a p30 because it's the best & easiest from what I've read. I'll get that this week.

Does anyone think the shut off problem could be related to a blown head gasket? I've been questioning this head gasket because I find antifreeze on the timing belt side of the motor between the block and head (head gasket area). My coolant in the resevoir is not discolored or milky. My oil isn't foamy either and I'm not smoking white.
 
Went ahead and changed the head gasket yesterday. I plan to fill it back up with oil and antifreeze tonight, so i'll let you know what happens. I've got my fingers crossed for a smooth operating engine.

I found out my LMA's are fine, but my cams have scratches and some light play in their seating. So, I've got that to deal with in my near future.
 
Well when starting the car for the first time after the head gasket swap, I heard a POP, and looked to notice my engine compartment covered with gas, so I have to wait until tomorrow for honda to open so I can get some new crush washers for the fuel hose to fuel rail connection. apparently, those aren't reusable and advance auto doesn't stock em'.

so damnit
 
Ouch lol...tough luck
hang in there, this is where it gets fun/expensive :p
 
well, I have to postpone head gasket change results again....

I put the new washers on the fuel line connection and started the engine right up. everything seemed fine, until I noticed Royal Purple dripping on the ground. For whatever reason, my crankshaft oil seal is now leaking big time... when I cut the car off you can hear the leak hissing for about 10 seconds.

So, I'll be replacing that this weekend. damnit car. This is definatley a love to hate relationship.
 
I know it's been a while, but I'm back...The crankshaft seal was leaking oil because my buddy put the pcv valve in backwards. I decided to buy a new pcv valve anyway and installed it.

Just recently I've: Changed the camshaft seals on the timing belt side(had an oil leak); Changed the distributor cap & rotor; Cleaned throttle body; checked all spark plugs; checked for vacuum leaks.

I have a short lived hissing sound after the engine is cut off, which I found is via the pcv system. I noticed the oil starts dripping from the crankshaft seal again if I disconnect the pcv's vacuum line. Of course that means I have excessive crankcase pressure, but I know guys that just cap off their pcv systems and have no leaks.

I still have a surging idle and engine doesn't want to rev over 4000. I dunno whats going on here. My next step is to replace this p72 ecu with a p30. I've checked IACV & TPS (Both tested fine). No CEL's

Plan A: Find a good deal on p28 or p30 ecu

Plan B: Catch car on fire, enjoy beer.
 
oh yea. I found out I have a B18 Dizzy... tec D3179. I don't know if that would effect much?
 
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