engine swapping question

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justin94

New Member
Ok, so I'm fairly new to tuning, etc. but I have friends that know about cars and are more then willing to help me out. I was looking at engine types on Wikipedia to better understand the differences and came to the conclusion that I have a F22B1 ('94 Accord EX VTEC; if I'm wrong let me know) Anyways, we were talking about swapping for a better, faster engine. Would the F22B be a wise choice? Any and all info would be appreciated :)
 
Are you talking about the dual-cam F22? If so, that would be a fine engine to have but not really a huge advantage over what you've already got. The single-cam F22s have heads that flow very well straight from the factory.

I say, if you're going to go dual-cam, then go big and get an H22...
 
Are you talking about the dual-cam F22? If so, that would be a fine engine to have but not really a huge advantage over what you've already got. The single-cam F22s have heads that flow very well straight from the factory.

I say, if you're going to go dual-cam, then go big and get an H22...

Yes I was talking about the dual, sorry to mention that. So from what your saying is, if I swap get the H22 (another on we were looking at), if not just keep what I have since the difference won't be that great.

Other then that, what's the best parts to get for most performance increase that I'll notice with no problem. Looking at maybe a $1,000 limit, for now.
 
I was looking at H22's, I want just the "H22" and not another like H22A, H22A1, etc. Right?
 
Yes I was talking about the dual, sorry to mention that. So from what your saying is, if I swap get the H22 (another on we were looking at), if not just keep what I have since the difference won't be that great.

Other then that, what's the best parts to get for most performance increase that I'll notice with no problem. Looking at maybe a $1,000 limit, for now.

It depends on what route you want to go with it. Do you want to keep it N/A? Or are you open to forced induction?

I was looking at H22's, I want just the "H22" and not another like H22A, H22A1, etc. Right?

There is no such thing as "just the H22". All of them will have at least one if not two more digits in the engine code. Any of them will work fine, but for the easiest swap, I'd look for an OBD1 engine (i.e. nothing newer then 1995)...
 
I found this, hondaswap.com/forced-induction/intro-turbocharging-230546/

I'm gonna read through it, but if you could (in short) still answer my question about the differences. Thanks.
 
N/A = Naturally Aspirated (all motor)
For $1,000.....get a Header, Intake and Exhaust. You can get it in the 15's with that set up.

Swap, in my opinion, a H22. It fits in your car pretty easy (in comparison to a 89 CRX) But this blows your $1,000 budget big time.
After purchasing the swap, you would need $400-500 in tune parts and a decent clutch. But this set up could put you in a position
where you can whoop stock Mustang GT's all day. I would say it cost around $2,500-3,000 to get the swap in your car and ready to rock.
 
either tune what you have or go h22... you could also look into the f20b!
 
Cool, this is all good to know. One thing though, forgot to mention, my car is an automatic... I wanna keep it that way though. When I do buy a new Honda it will be stick. But I should do everything the same as you guys are telling me?
 
Okay...you'll be slow with just about everything with an Auto. You can get same hp gains but it will only be fun when you are already rolling and you punch it so the trans kicks down a gear. You'll still be a turtle out of the hole.

If you feel mechanical...google Honda Auto to Manual Conversion
 
What's "N/A", and what's the diffference between them? (Sorry, I am just learning pretty much, lol)

N/A = Naturally Aspirated, i.e. no turbo or supercharger

F/I = Forced Induction, i.e. a turbo, supercharger, etc.

N/A = Naturally Aspirated (all motor)
For $1,000.....get a Header, Intake and Exhaust. You can get it in the 15's with that set up.

Swap, in my opinion, a H22. It fits in your car pretty easy (in comparison to a 89 CRX) But this blows your $1,000 budget big time.
After purchasing the swap, you would need $400-500 in tune parts and a decent clutch. But this set up could put you in a position
where you can whoop stock Mustang GT's all day. I would say it cost around $2,500-3,000 to get the swap in your car and ready to rock.

You're telling me that a simple I/H/E will cut a whole second off of an Accord's quarter mile time? I think you're crazy...
 
I actually ran a 1994 EX 2 door accord with a DC header, AEM intake and GReddy exhaust (w/a test pipe) 15.8 @ 90mph Sacramento Raceway, CA on a Wednesday (open night)

It was a 5-speed though.
 
I actually ran a 1994 EX 2 door accord with a DC header, AEM intake and GReddy exhaust (w/a test pipe) 15.8 @ 90mph Sacramento Raceway, CA on a Wednesday (open night)

It was a 5-speed though.

Yeah, I guess 15.8 is technically "in the 15s". I was just trying to say, don't expect it to make a huge difference...
 
I've seen a LS auto Integra RS with H/I/E hitting 15.4's all day long. Blew my flippin mind.

A LS Integra with 8lb drag kit and injectors hit 13.7's on street tire...all day.

I've also rememeber lots of 99 Si Civics (when they FIRST came out) run 16.1's and 16.2's with intake and exhaust b/c they broke the motor in like crap and brought it to the track. But my friend bought one...clean it with a diaper (lol), always let it get to running temp before driving and hit 15.7's consistantly at Infinion Racdeway and it was completely bone stock!!!
 
So your saying that a non built f22b1 with intake headers and exhaust will hit high 15's? I also have a 94 accord ex and was thinking about doing a h22 swap
 
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