Eg Vx d16z6 swap O2 sensor problem

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

D

daytonretard

New Member
im wiring in my 4 wire O2 sensor
using pins
d22 to green wire
d14 to white wire
a25 to black
a6 to black

spliced wires into existing wires using spade connectors for removal if needed. cut the wires and wrapped them back to the connection (didn't know if i could tape them off or if they needed to be in the circuit still.

car is now throwing codes 6,7 and 10.
d22 is wired into those circuits.
all i know. anyone have any information or help on this? pictures would be awesome!

even further if you can and have knowledge on doing this pm me to give me a call
 
*bump*

really needing help on this. anyone have any input?
anyone good with wiring or done this/know someone who's done this before?

just basically shorting the d22 pin out somehow (sensor ground wire) so causing all my sensors linked to it to keep an open circuit and tripping.

im good with wiring and soldering and reading schematics. just wanting to see if anyone can diagnose my why when i spliced my o2 into that pin it wouldn't ground anything out. o2 sensor functions fine now just not the other sensors.

also is there another pin i can ground it to instead? i know theres a few more ground on the p28. i just dont want to go cutting more wires unless i need to!!!
help please?
 
code 7 is TPS.....mine popped that code today!!

Are you talking about running the wires from O2 to the ECU? I'm a little confused...tell me how you converted this over.
 
I am not sure about your D22 its a ground but not too sure about it being apart of the O2 wiring. A25....I think that's the main relay and yours should have been already been occupied by....well, main relay wire.

I found this and its 4-wire form a guy who converted his EF
Orange/Black - Heater (ECU A6)
Grey(WHITE) - Signal (ECU D14)
Yellow/Black - Injector 12 Volt
Green/White - Ground
 
vx uses a 5 wire wideband. i started wiring the 4 wire bosch in using the pins i stated. cut the wires and spliced to the ecu wires. then tapped the wires to the engine bay back into the original splice when i noticed those went to sensors.

so wiring is directly from the ecu to the sensor using these pins. previous wire is also tapped into connection. not soldered right now since it didn't fix it.

d22 is the sensor ground. i also didn't use a shielded wire. i think that was the one to d14 for signal. could be my problem. might be transferring the charge to the ground. just scratching my head on this for over a week now. i'll snap a picture of the wiring tomorrow and try and upload it. just used spade connectors for easy in & out since i might rebuild my d15z1 (spun two rod bearings) and slap it back in and get my 50mpg again.

so think the non-shielded wire for signal could be transferring power to the ground?
 
Which ECU are you running with that Z6? It should be a P28.
The ECU that was stock for the VX motor or any d15 will throw you error signals all day. I couldnt imagine it would run like it is supposed to either.
 
I'm pretty sure he used the p28....well I think

OP...you ran an exposed wire to the ECU? That could be a problem
 
I just read a few other posts from him, and it seems he is aware of running the correct ECU. Unless he spaced it^_^
 
CAFROG said:
I'm pretty sure he used the p28....well I think

OP...you ran an exposed wire to the ECU? That could be a problem
Click to expand...

i'm pretty competent with mechanics ;)
i spent the 100 bucks on the p28 and took out the p07. after a huge failure of trading my aftermarket wing for a damn auto p28. haha

the wires all insulated. the signal wire isn't a shielded wire (extra copper insulation) has regular insulation. all wires are just taped or spliced using spade connectors til i fix it.

im new to honda's but i have owned and worked on cars for about 9 years now. very big mazda guy (ford probe and mx-6 gt's turbo 12 valve's) :D

i've also held a job wiring custom control panels for HVAC and electrical systems so wiring isn't a foreign language to me. didn't have access to any shielded wiring so hoping to get some tomorrow and see if that helps.

anyone know if you can run each sensor's ground to a engine/body ground or do they all have to go to the ecu?
 
CAFROG said:
code 7 is TPS.....mine popped that code today!!

Are you talking about running the wires from O2 to the ECU? I'm a little confused...tell me how you converted this over.
Click to expand...

you fix your code problem? i had that one time when i took off my throttle body to clean it and took the tps off. accidentally didn't align it in the grooves and the position caused it to send the code.

CAFROG said:
I am not sure about your D22 its a ground but not too sure about it being apart of the O2 wiring. A25....I think that's the main relay and yours should have been already been occupied by....well, main relay wire.

I found this and its 4-wire form a guy who converted his EF
Orange/Black - Heater (ECU A6)
Grey(WHITE) - Signal (ECU D14)
Yellow/Black - Injector 12 Volt
Green/White - Ground
Click to expand...

are you talking about the wiring on the ecu side? or the sensor side? or after the harness connectors? D22 is the sensor ground i beleive for the heater system. not sure right now. haven't worked on it in the last 3 days. but i compared schematics and its in the same system for the ground so should be correct. its just linked to the other sensors and is only providing ground to O2 now that i wired it in. weird.

thanks for all the input and help guys! just talking to someone else really helps get my mind going in the right direction!

does anyone know anyone who knows honda wiring well on this site?
 
My code 7 was the TPS and its a TB I bought (needed a USDM one for BAR) but the TPS was screwed in (meaning it was replaced). Well I checked it out (in the rain) and the screw came undone. I put it back (at what voltage...I don't know) but my CEL is gone and it drove/idled fine. I'll check it with a multimeter tomorrow if its dry out. Tips on getting the leads in those wires? Its a bitch for me....dont know why but I always stab my finger...its an awkward position. I might tap in at the shock tower.

Now for your wiring......you had 5 wire before and all was good in terms of wiring? .....what are their function in comparison to the locations for the 4 that need to (eventually) be hooked in to the right spot on the ECU for this new set up? I'm guessing its not just one extra wire that needs to be omitted. Taht would be jsut too easy.

I'm not Mr Electrical but if your wiring is clean and not exposed,,,,you should be fine. The connections you made shouldn't be some noticeable problem

So in terms of the places you are going with the wire.....are you talking about the engine harness and where it plugs into the shock tower harness? (leads into the cabin to ECU/etc) I was speaking of the spots at the ECU. One you gave is the Main Relay spot from my research.
 
the wiring is just in the wrong pins for the wideband. theres like 7 wires for O2 on this harness or something. and carries two sensor wires i beleive. haven't done too much looking into it. probly should haha.

with little wires like that i usually just take an blade and peel back some insulation (very minimal) and slip in there. then after you can take a heat gun and melt it back. or drop some silicone over it or tape. whatever works for you. need that steady hand though!

i went straight from my pinout and schematic and cut the wires on the harness to the ecu and spliced in there. then ran my wires through the firewall and straight into my O2 sensor (since its like 2 feet away with my dc 4-2-1)

theyre all spliced with spades and the wire i cut off i wrapped into the spade to get connection for the other sensors. not sure if i just need the one for ground. others were for pre-existing o2 wiring. i had a guide for taping into the shock tower wires but it was so damn confusing to understand i didn't want to attempt it. coulda caused a lot more headaches since i just sold my other harness. stupid ass me sold the SI harness before thinking of the O2 wiring haha.

at least i have a shop with a lift out here. nice and dry and i can work day or night. where you from CAFROG?
 
Northern California.....state capitol Sac-toe is my location. Not raining this morning.

Daytonretard has an idea in terms of a D16Z6 harness. Thats the harness I used for my B16A swap and we know its the right wiring for the O2. I bought my used for $70
 
i understand the application of the harnesses and the differences. mines already set up for my v-tec engine since i pulled my v-tec-e engine out so has all wiring. just that the wiring for O2 is different.

i just sold my extra one for $20. ouch didn't know what i could get out of it. but i got it with my head and a jdm d15b intake manifold and throttle body for $90 so it was a good recuperation right there.

my main question now is can i just change the green wire over to another ground pin on the ECU instead of wiring it to the sensor grounds and see if that takes car of my issue? or does it have to be in-line with the other sensor grounds?

im just north of you in oregon. pretty clear day up here! rained like hell for the last few though! Longboard is not a good substitute for my car in that weather!! haha
 
I would say to try to ground it elsewhere...thats where I was confused with the pins you plugged into.....the grounds.

So I tried to pass smog today.....didn't pass at idle....pissed me off good. Money Money Money......may need a cat or maybe the USDM p30 I got isn't a virgin like I thought. I am running a little rich.....I think but the guy will diagnose it for $70 Monday
 
CAFROG said:
I would say to try to ground it elsewhere...thats where I was confused with the pins you plugged into.....the grounds.

So I tried to pass smog today.....didn't pass at idle....pissed me off good. Money Money Money......may need a cat or maybe the USDM p30 I got isn't a virgin like I thought. I am running a little rich.....I think but the guy will diagnose it for $70 Monday
Click to expand...

yeah i had some success today and checked the schematics and had another ground at d21 and that also ran to my egr system i had before so i spliced it into the egr plug sensor ground in the engine bay and no more check engine lights!! whoo!! now i have to take it to honda to get it timed correctly. crank always has like 3 degrees of play in it whenever i set the timing. stumping on that as well. hate that damn tensioner too!!!

ouch good luck on the smog testing! we don't have that in my area. used to where i lived. how i found out i burnt an exhaust valve in my old 240sx. lady came back in coughing haha. you running a air/fuel gauge? keep a report up on that man!
 
NICE! no more CEL is always a good thing. I hate seeing that thing on!! What do you mean by play in the crank? The tensioner....lossen the bolt and try to use a small pry bar or flat head to move it into a tensioned position....with the marks at TDC on sprocket and crank....then tighten the tensioner. Just take it to a decent mechanic and get him to check it with you. You can adjust it right there and have him time it again. Do you know the steps to changing the timing in your car? Jump the service plug and such.

I will keep you updated I have a thread called "JDM Pass Smog in CA" that I started a while ago. Its 3 pages long and has had over 1500 views (pretty hot topic in CA). Check it out for updates. So far....I am gonna pop the ECU open to look for a chip (hope not...paid almost $300 for a Virgin P30 USDM) and it might be the cat....while someone said they think its the O2 sensor LMAO That would be funny after I was trying to help you wire yours up. Its like $180 OEM online for one of those and a cat is about $200 so either one seems like a crappy option that may or may not work.
 
yeah i've tried the normal procedure over and over. i pry the tensioner and tighten the bolt back up but my pulley always advances about 3-5 degrees. almost always goes back to this same position no matter if where i put the damn crank at before i put the belt on.

got a guy coming out today to see if he wants to trade me a coupe ex for my hatch. get a lil more room then! i'll miss the projectors though.

damn man hope you pass. hopes its not the cat either!! know anyone who needs a wideband sensor? still have an extra from my vx. i'll check out your thread though. i love reading anything i can like that.
 
I have head that you can also go the 3-4 degrees the other way so when you tighten the tensioner....all is TDC Would that maybe work? Old tensioner?

Edit: My USDM P30 ($300) had a friggin' chip in it and I HOPE this is my problem with smog
 
damn no bueno on that chip for smog. what kind of mileage were you getting?
probly disable your O2 sensor(s).

i've probably literally tried about 10+ hours to set the damn timing. had it running well a few times but then had to fix sensors and it always goes out of time again. belt is newer so i re-used when i slapped the other head on there (looked like was on for less than 10k). no visible wear or anything. same size as old one.

that guy is coming out after the super bowl so hope he knows what is going on. sounds like he knows a little more than i do about these particular cars. never had timing issues like this before on any other car i've owned! driving me nuts haha.

honda's are headaches but they're growing on me. long as i have my advil.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top