d16z6 problems????

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93Spooner

New Member
hey guys i just bought a 93 civic dx it was converted to stick and swapped with a d16z6 well bought it for $400 of some kid and it was smoking like a crop duster so i pulled the motor and the rings were fried prob from the straight pipe exhaust he had on it so i traded the exhaust to some dumbass for his stock 96 ex one. I rebuilt the motor we bored it 40 over shave the block and head and port and polish on the head so i put it back in and it would warm up and stall out so we adjusted the throtle cable for now to get it running. well it revs up and down when i hit 1500 rmp and is fine before and after that someone said clean the iac so i did still does it and i also don't hear the vtec pop and the gas mil sucks. im just trying to find the prob before i blow it up cuz its my daily driver i don't have anything els to drive thanks for any help.
 
What ECU are you running? should be a P28.
Sounds like you may have issues with proper auto to manual ecu/wire harness conversion.
 
its running the p28 im wondering if the problem is that the vtec is popin at 1500rpm and that's what it bounces and shit gas mil and why i don't here it i use to be a mini trucker but i fell in love with hondas now i know a lot about the d15b1 which i had in my sol a year back but the vtec is all new to me
 
1500 rpm for VTEC engagement is crazy! Possible only if you have a chipped P28 programmed by a dumb a$$ who thinks VTEC is a power boost on a video game lol. If you ECU is a virgin....the problem is not it.

Have you got it up to running temp yet? If not....this could also be the FITV (you can clean it too...just screw the white plug back in where it was when re-installing it) What about the timing belt off a tooth? Just trying to help. Valve lash? Hard to tell b/c you have completely rebuilt it and beyond OEM specs so the problem could be a variety of things.

Maybe someone who is a d series build guru will chime in.
 
ok not vtec just found a wiring photo went out and looked its not even hooked up the kid had the two ecu wires wired tougher and run to the green/yellow wire lol fuckin kids well im guna go do it the right way so i can at least pop v for now lol and what is the FITV?
 
Fast Idle Thermo Valve (its mounted on the bottom of the throttle body and has a coolant line going through it. Take TB off and its easy to get to after that. I believe it controls rpm when motor is cold
 
ok not vtec just found a wiring photo went out and looked its not even hooked up the kid had the two ecu wires wired tougher and run to the green/yellow wire lol fuckin kids well im guna go do it the right way so i can at least pop v for now lol and what is the FITV?

I read this post 3 times, still not gettin it. Maybe its me. :cool:
 
ok cleaned the IACV and the FITV still bouncing at 1500rpm the o2 sensor wouldn't have any thing to do with this would it?
 
any check engine codes? check what ecu you have. there is a great reference section that will help you in identifying what you have. if the rpm bounces from 1500-3500 or so, check iacv. best way to do it is raise the front of car and make the radiator the highest point to allow air to escape.
 
no check engine light again its a p28 ecu and yesterday it stopped bouncing but it started again today its only a few hundred rpm from 1500 to 2000 so idk and are the o2 sesnors diff from the 92 d16z6s to the 96 d16z6s?
 
obd1 (92-95) only used one o2 sensor.
for the z6 with a p28 and good engine harness you will want a 4 wire o2 sensor.
obd2a (96-98) used two o2 sensors.
 
I am having a hard time understanding your post lol. Anyway it sounds like your having a idle surge. Idle revin up and down? I know this may seem simple but maybe bleed your radiator. I know mine did the same thing for a few days until I got all the air out.
 
Definitely worth looking into. Nice one, Michael Jordan's 94 coupe. After the things he did....a bleed shoudl be in order. Hopefully the OP hasn't done it and its the solution!
:thumbsup: Rep'd
 
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