b18c1 gsr block, gsr head, ls crank and ls rods

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xdougx

New Member
first off i spun a rod bearing in my gsr. i read you can put the LS crank and rods in a gsr and it will bump the compression up and the ls crank is a little longer stroke. well, i want to know if i can still use the gsr pistons? the cylinders were done not too long ago, i can still see hone marks. i dunno who rebuilt it but someone did. i'm also wanting to know if i'm gonna have to hone the cylinders. i hear that there could be a lip in the top of the cylinder and the fact that the pistons are now going to go up farther than they did worrys me. i didn't really wanna take the block to a machine shop, but if i have too i will.
 
yes you can do this, it will be like having a LS vtec! :)

you can Use GSR pistons but I would say you should get usdm or jdm ITR or P30 pistons. all will bump compression above gsr pistons.

The gsr deck hight is the same as the LS so the pistons wont come above the deck hight.

you will need to treat this like a rebuild, you will need to re hone the block. If it was me, I would bore the block .5 to 1mm over.

A seller by the name of uyunira sells rebuild kits for $250 shipped. just tell em what pistons you want and what gasket kit you need.

when you buy the LS rods I would get ARP rod bolts and have em pressed in, also i would have the rods reconditioned.

you will probably spend about $500-800 for a rebuild if you build it yourself. that should be tuned if your a smart buyer.
 
first off i spun a rod bearing in my gsr. i read you can put the LS crank and rods in a gsr and it will bump the compression up and the ls crank is a little longer stroke. well, i want to know if i can still use the gsr pistons? the cylinders were done not too long ago, i can still see hone marks. i dunno who rebuilt it but someone did. i'm also wanting to know if i'm gonna have to hone the cylinders. i hear that there could be a lip in the top of the cylinder and the fact that the pistons are now going to go up farther than they did worrys me. i didn't really wanna take the block to a machine shop, but if i have too i will.


We have done this setup Many, Many times with success... Basically anytime someone came in with a spun rod bearing in their GSR, we'd refer them to use an LS crank and rods. Usually we'd use the P30 pistons because they fit great on the LS rods and the compression ends up around 11.5:1 (great for a street motor). Make sure you use ARP rod bolts and check all the bearing clearances before assembly.

Also, the crankshaft counterweights will slightly touch the oil squirters. You will have to bend the oil squirters a tiny bit to clear the counterweights...
 
A seller by the name of uyunira sells rebuild kits for $250 shipped. just tell em what pistons you want and what gasket kit you need.

im new to this site and is doing a simular build, and well ^^^ guy has a very good deal on the parts i need, how would i get in contact with him? i tried searching but all i can find is posts' not members..
 
^^im very new to this site...but do you mind posting up link please?
 
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/Parts-A..._ssn=uyunira&_trksid=p4506.c0.m273&Make=Honda
i.html


thats it let me know if it works
 
just wanted to post up my success on this matter. it was the first motor i put together so i had a couple mistakes that have been straightened out. i did use the golden eagle oil squirter delete, i should have had the crank balanced and didn't the gsr head was ported and i used usdm type r pistons. ls crank, ls rods. i also went with a skunk2 intake manifold, ebay 2.5 inch header and a ebay xtd clutch setup. arp rod bolts and arp head studs. the car is untuned and really needs tuned but rite now on motor it's the fastest all motor civic at the track. i brought it to the track for the first time sunday, with everything rite and was pulling off 9.5s motor consistantly in the 1/8 mile. i know the car is capable of better than that. it was with shitty 2.5 60 foots and no traction. the car also has a 75 shot of nitrous and walboro 255hp fuel pump. it pulls very well and feels like this buiild was just rite for the nitrous. it makes a quick qesome streetcar. i am pretty confident this car has potential with traction on the nitrous to run mid to high `12s in the 1/4 on drag radials.
 
just wanted to post up my success on this matter. it was the first motor i put together so i had a couple mistakes that have been straightened out. i did use the golden eagle oil squirter delete, i should have had the crank balanced and didn't the gsr head was ported and i used usdm type r pistons. ls crank, ls rods. i also went with a skunk2 intake manifold, ebay 2.5 inch header and a ebay xtd clutch setup. arp rod bolts and arp head studs. the car is untuned and really needs tuned but rite now on motor it's the fastest all motor civic at the track. i brought it to the track for the first time sunday, with everything rite and was pulling off 9.5s motor consistantly in the 1/8 mile. i know the car is capable of better than that. it was with shitty 2.5 60 foots and no traction. the car also has a 75 shot of nitrous and walboro 255hp fuel pump. it pulls very well and feels like this buiild was just rite for the nitrous. it makes a quick qesome streetcar. i am pretty confident this car has potential with traction on the nitrous to run mid to high `12s in the 1/4 on drag radials.


"edit" 9.5s was on motor. i ran worse on nitrous, no traction on street tires with camber out of wack.
 
just wanted to post up my success on this matter. it was the first motor i put together so i had a couple mistakes that have been straightened out. i did use the golden eagle oil squirter delete, i should have had the crank balanced and didn't the gsr head was ported and i used usdm type r pistons. ls crank, ls rods. i also went with a skunk2 intake manifold, ebay 2.5 inch header and a ebay xtd clutch setup. arp rod bolts and arp head studs. the car is untuned and really needs tuned but rite now on motor it's the fastest all motor civic at the track. i brought it to the track for the first time sunday, with everything rite and was pulling off 9.5s motor consistantly in the 1/8 mile. i know the car is capable of better than that. it was with shitty 2.5 60 foots and no traction. the car also has a 75 shot of nitrous and walboro 255hp fuel pump. it pulls very well and feels like this buiild was just rite for the nitrous. it makes a quick qesome streetcar. i am pretty confident this car has potential with traction on the nitrous to run mid to high `12s in the 1/4 on drag radials.
What cams are you running in your setup?
 
someone help me....im using b16a engine..bolt on apexi turbo kit...the bearing have spun....then this time I will go to gsr block with b20 crank and forge 81mm piston+rod....is it fit..
 
ls/b20 cranks are the same.
as long as you use ls rods with the ls crank, you're ok. gsr pistons don't fit ls rods, that's why the b16/p30 set up is popular, but you probably don't want that much compression in a turbo set up.
 
ls/b20 cranks are the same.
as long as you use ls rods with the ls crank, you're ok. gsr pistons don't fit ls rods, that's why the b16/p30 set up is popular, but you probably don't want that much compression in a turbo set up.
im using b16a engine...because the spun bearing...im thinking to replace entire block with b18gsr...is it need to do anything or just plug and play...and how about the main stud arp b16a...can it be use at the gsr block
 
b16 deck height is shorter. you can't do ls rods/crank in a b16.
if you do the entire short block from a gsr, it will more or less just bolt up to the b16 head.
 
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