ZC into my dx hatch

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Zero2sixtyin3

89 EF Hatch D15B2 w/ 5spd
ok so i was going through and looking at the engine swap 101 thread.i have been thinking of a zc swqap for now until my b18c1 motor is finished (gonna be a while). i dont know how long my motor will last either.

so i am wanting to know whether i will be able to use my dx harness or will i need a converted harness like from rywire or something? and second i am asking to make sure, my current tranny will work with the zc motor correct? and i will also need either the zc hood for the swap to keep from fabbing anything correct? and if i were to use the zc tranny is there a vehicle(aside from the zc equipped civic) for which i might find axles/intermediate shaft that will work? and will my dx hubs work with said axles?
 
No need for a converted harness- there aren't too many extra wires to add/run for the MPFI conversion and the change to a ZC.

Current transmission will work. Just make sure you have the right flywheel/disc/pressure plate combination. There were 3 different setups in the EFs. If you use your current flywheel with your current complete clutch you don't need to worry.

Don't necessarily need the ZC hood. You can cut webbing or space the engine down. Use hood pins if you cut the webbing out from underneath.

Not sure on the intermediate shaft.

DX hubs will work. They'll also work for the B series axles.
 
if i were to use the zc tranny is there a vehicle(aside from the zc equipped civic) for which i might find axles/intermediate shaft that will work?
the only intermediate shaft that will work with the ZC engine and ZC transmission is the JDM ZC intermediate shaft - axles from 90-93 Integra work
 
well the motor i was looking at came with a tranny too. i dont know how sought after they are and dont want an extra tranny lying around. i know i can by dpfi to mpfi harnesses already done, so would that work or is there something in addition to mpfi that i need to worry about when swapping?
 
i would just go zc and us the si tranny less headaches and u can find parts for it anywhere. my buddy had the whole zc swap in his first gen teg and then something happened to the intermediate shaft and we had to replace it and guess what? we couldnt find one so he ended up getting an si trans and he had to have a mount one off'd for it because the integra will not accept the si trans.
 
ok well heres the deal guys, i found a guy selling a sohc non vtec zc with an si transmission, wiring harness, axles, and ecu he had it up for 500 i talked him down to 440. what do you guys think? i am probably going to do a vitara build to some degree so should i do this or i have another guy literally giving me his d16y8 that is sitting in his house in pieces because his friend was going to rebuild it for him but he then decided he wanted a b18c1 and bought mine lol.

its a hard choice because i could get the sohc swap from the guy and not need to worry about wiring or anything but i would be getting a y8 for free too. maybe a mini-me vitara build? what do you all think
 
how about this... grab up that zc and si trans and use the y8 head on it i am pretty sure the zc non vtec sohc is about the same as the d16a6 so that zc block mated to a vtec head should pull some really good numbers for a stock build.
 
or are u going boost? if so yea use the vitara pistons if not ur compression ratio will be ungodly low and would have no balls.
 
well im definitely going turbo. i want big numbers. i know currently spedfactory holds the record for whp on a vitara turbo build with no sleeves @ 609 whp. 404 wtq, i figure i would go chat with them and i might get my block sleeved and see what i cant get out of it that way lol. they are about an hour from my place, 30 minutes from my work lol.

heres a vid of it lol.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-CvdlJLes4
 
but seriously if you are looking for big numbers why not sleeve it? have u seen the articles in super street mag about their single cam build? they made over 700 whp.
 
well the way i look at it, if im sleeving it its going to be more major hp and therefore a track car. track cars spend more time down then they do running. daily drivers are the opposite for the most part.

i decided i would buy a motor build it for a streetable power like 400 whp. then with the motor i take out, i will build for major power like sleeved and everything. then find a wagovan or something lol and drop it in that.

i am thinking i will go with some good cast pistons. i have heard and correct me if i heard wrong but, i was told that forged pistons take longer to warm up then cast pistons and therefore on something like a daily driver you will have some piston rattle until the car warms up. is this true?
 
Sort of- the pistons really take about the same amount of time to "warm up" but the forged aluminum tends to expand more as it reaches operating temp. The cast pistons don't expand as much, so they don't require as much piston to wall gap as the forged. This gap is what makes the pistons rattle until they're warm.
 
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