BoostedHatch
get tha fuck out!
nice car man i like it alot.
JRSC b20vtec integra... finally made a thread
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thanks guys 
a little update....
went back to the dyno today, and it was still breaking up up top. thought the cap and rotor was the problem, guess not. it would drop every time the same way, sharply at 7k and not really waver much after that. we ran it a good 8 or 9 times and it did it the same way almost every time.
got it pretty well narrowed down to the distributor, its definitely an ignition miss. if we can ever get it running right, it should make a good bit more power. we have some different intake setups to play with, and still need to adjust cam timing. right now, its basically only making power till 7k. the best pull it made today was 246/181.
the torque is pretty nasty, there is a lot of it, all over the place. really fun to drive, wheelspin like crazy any time you want lol. will have dyno charts up later...
a little update....
went back to the dyno today, and it was still breaking up up top. thought the cap and rotor was the problem, guess not. it would drop every time the same way, sharply at 7k and not really waver much after that. we ran it a good 8 or 9 times and it did it the same way almost every time.
got it pretty well narrowed down to the distributor, its definitely an ignition miss. if we can ever get it running right, it should make a good bit more power. we have some different intake setups to play with, and still need to adjust cam timing. right now, its basically only making power till 7k. the best pull it made today was 246/181.
the torque is pretty nasty, there is a lot of it, all over the place. really fun to drive, wheelspin like crazy any time you want lol. will have dyno charts up later...
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eg'sforlife
Active Member
Still aint done anything with them mounts I see. Either way nice work
bluejcivic
New Member
if it screams like that at 7, i cant wait to hear it at 8500
78civic
Junior Member
Did you think to use some of that 'dia-lectric' paste between the housing of the dizzy and the coil and or igniter? Maybe some plastic attachment screws/nuts.
Older GM hei ones had a problem with the arc (when really revving..) duration lapsing just enough to actually ground or arc toward the next in line, being the mounting screw of the rotor cap after the two contact points in relation to the firing order. Does that make sense..?
Get it off and putt up all the plates and see if you have any bushing/bearing dust, or if the advance weights aren't gummed up with that yeller grease that they use. After time of cycling hot n cold it hardens (kinda like a buggar) and won't let your advance happen when it's supposed to..
Let me just say that I'm NOT experienced with the later machanics of dizzy's, just trying to give some thought to your miss, and reminiscing of past cars that gave me gray hair.
E
Older GM hei ones had a problem with the arc (when really revving..) duration lapsing just enough to actually ground or arc toward the next in line, being the mounting screw of the rotor cap after the two contact points in relation to the firing order. Does that make sense..?
Get it off and putt up all the plates and see if you have any bushing/bearing dust, or if the advance weights aren't gummed up with that yeller grease that they use. After time of cycling hot n cold it hardens (kinda like a buggar) and won't let your advance happen when it's supposed to..
Let me just say that I'm NOT experienced with the later machanics of dizzy's, just trying to give some thought to your miss, and reminiscing of past cars that gave me gray hair.
E
78civic
Junior Member
I was just lookin at your pics and maybe the wires under your cover plate..
Maybe try and take them out and separate them and see.
They might be 'bleeding' one to another if the shielding isn't that good.
OR, have you pulled the spark plug end of your wires and by using a extension on a socket, place down firmly bottoming out. Draw it back up and look to see if there is oil down bathing the plug..
Oil is a conductor and if it's deep enough, it could short down in there and you'd never know it.
Of course if there is, change your O-rings under the cover and clean up the oil, even inside the bottom of the plug wire.
E
Maybe try and take them out and separate them and see.
They might be 'bleeding' one to another if the shielding isn't that good.
OR, have you pulled the spark plug end of your wires and by using a extension on a socket, place down firmly bottoming out. Draw it back up and look to see if there is oil down bathing the plug..
Oil is a conductor and if it's deep enough, it could short down in there and you'd never know it.
Of course if there is, change your O-rings under the cover and clean up the oil, even inside the bottom of the plug wire.
E
RoughKnight
Christmas Car
holy fucking motor mounts batman
i thought it was gonna fly back into the cockpit and paint your interior red
i thought it was gonna fly back into the cockpit and paint your interior red
GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
I always though the candy green VC looks good on a B.
yes i know i still need motor mounts, will be on soon. i cant wait for it to pull to 8k+ rpms too!
thanks for the advice 78civic... i put a new cap and rotor on before this dyno session, they looked kinda rough. the plugs and wires are not very old either. and we actually put another set of wires on there yesterday just to rule that out as a problem. the plugs look good, no oil leaks or anything. the distributor is old, mid nineties. im trying to decide if i should just replace the igniter and coil inside, or just get a whole new one.
i gotta call my tuner, he is supposed to send me some a dyno graph from yesterday....
thanks for the advice 78civic... i put a new cap and rotor on before this dyno session, they looked kinda rough. the plugs and wires are not very old either. and we actually put another set of wires on there yesterday just to rule that out as a problem. the plugs look good, no oil leaks or anything. the distributor is old, mid nineties. im trying to decide if i should just replace the igniter and coil inside, or just get a whole new one.
i gotta call my tuner, he is supposed to send me some a dyno graph from yesterday....
here are couple of runs from the other day.... as you can see there is a big miss in the same spot each time. that line should keep climbing steeply and not start to fall until after 8k. there will be more tweaking to do once i can get rid of the problem, a good bit more power to be made. gotta love the torque curve... or maybe better called a plateau?? 
78civic
Junior Member
I found a person on Ebay that was selling JUST the housings that were new! I'll try and find a linky..
A cheap way to find out if those NEW wires are shielded enough would be to have it running in a dark garage and look if you can see them glowing. And OHM them out too.
(<1000/ft)
I pulled my wife's head off and took a looksee at the dizzy.. Man, was I OFF!! Just reluctors and pickups.. Still I could see if just a small chip was picked up by one of the magnets..
Considering my ignorance.. What if it's a vacume leak instead of a voltage problem??
Just brainstormin.. Now you're talking of the dip at 6500? or both that one and the 1700r's ones later?
Can you check your logs to see if it leans out during those?
E
A cheap way to find out if those NEW wires are shielded enough would be to have it running in a dark garage and look if you can see them glowing. And OHM them out too.
(<1000/ft)
I pulled my wife's head off and took a looksee at the dizzy.. Man, was I OFF!! Just reluctors and pickups.. Still I could see if just a small chip was picked up by one of the magnets..
Considering my ignorance.. What if it's a vacume leak instead of a voltage problem??
Just brainstormin.. Now you're talking of the dip at 6500? or both that one and the 1700r's ones later?
Can you check your logs to see if it leans out during those?
E
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we were watching the a/f ratio the whole time and my tuner has all the information on his computer. it pretty much stayed the same throughout the pulls, even during and after the 6.5k miss. thinking that the wideband isnt fast enough to do anything about it.
pretty damn sure there is not a vacuum leak. the idle is good and the boost stays stable at just under 10psi all the way through the pulls.. just found out that D obd1 d series dizzys have the same igniter and coil. so if i can find one of them for real cheap and rob it, that might be a cheap fix. a new oem distributor is $527, and just the coil and igniter kit is $250.
pretty damn sure there is not a vacuum leak. the idle is good and the boost stays stable at just under 10psi all the way through the pulls.. just found out that D obd1 d series dizzys have the same igniter and coil. so if i can find one of them for real cheap and rob it, that might be a cheap fix. a new oem distributor is $527, and just the coil and igniter kit is $250.
78civic
Junior Member
94 - 95 ACURA INTEGRA DISTRIBUTOR HOUSING NEW : eBay Motors (item 280442113154 end time Mar-22-10 16:54:10 PDT)
That's the one for the 94-95 teg housing.. They have more but didn't look to see which ones. Sorry
And it's only 18 clams right now!!
E
That's the one for the 94-95 teg housing.. They have more but didn't look to see which ones. Sorry
And it's only 18 clams right now!!
E
finally got the front lip back on after getting it painted. the color is damn close in person, but not perfect. it should help when i wash the car, its fairly dirty in these pics, and the lip is shiny new paint. also still have to paint the screw heads that are showing.
havent resolved the ignition problem yet, been really busy lately. it still hauls ass though. some guy in a ford diesel tried me when i was merging onto the hwy today...he was merging too and when i started to lay into the throttle a little bit, he floored it right next to me. the turbo was loud and it was spewing smoke from the exhuast. so then i floored it and left him in the dust, real quick too
havent resolved the ignition problem yet, been really busy lately. it still hauls ass though. some guy in a ford diesel tried me when i was merging onto the hwy today...he was merging too and when i started to lay into the throttle a little bit, he floored it right next to me. the turbo was loud and it was spewing smoke from the exhuast. so then i floored it and left him in the dust, real quick too
GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
The lip looks excellent.
werd. I'm loving the complete look of your teg. Aggressive yet super clean. Plus it's got the power to back it up.
it still hauls ass though. some guy in a ford diesel tried me when i was merging onto the hwy today...he was merging too and when i started to lay into the throttle a little bit, he floored it right next to me. the turbo was loud and it was spewing smoke from the exhuast. so then i floored it and left him in the dust, real quick too
Whoopin' those chipped Diesels is always fun.
They will pull you off the line like no ones business though. First time I ran against my buddy's
Duramax with a chip intake and exhaust. He pulled me off the line so hard....I thought it was over
but I caught up and passed him (I could tell I was victorious by 45mph lol)
Battle Pope
Well-Known Member
For some reason I really like what you've done with your high-beams. Normally I like symmetry but the ram air port on one side and the yellowed glass on the other really looks like the car means business.
