EP3Hatch1987
Meeeeooowww!!!!!
i want 2 get some drilled slotted rotors for my 95 civic DX but im only finding ones for the ex/si w/abs and since i dont have abs on my dx would it even matter?
drilled slotted rotors
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Unless you just like how they look and you dont mind paying the high price tag, you shouldn't get drilled and slotted rotors. Blanks will give you all the stopping power that you need. Drilled and slotted rotors wear down pads much faster then blanks and they dont really add worthwhile benefits. Its a waste of money in my opinion.
gone over this a bunch of times
cross drilled rotors DO NOT cool off any faster... they are highly prone to cracking under hard use... you actually lose braking due to the reduced friction surface... the only benefit they ever have is for weight reduction, and that is only really applicable on much larger rotors than your civic is equipped with...
and slotting is also just about pointless as long as you run decent pads... the newer pads do not glaze up like old technology pads used to, so the slots constantly shaving the face of the pads is not really needed any more... you will see some track cars running slots but it is more for added insurance than a real necessity... but they are also beating up their brakes significantly more than you are ever going to on the street... and they change out their brakes after every few hours of use any way, so the increased wear is not an issue for them... and once again slotted rotors are more prone to cracking under high stress use
cross drilling and slotting together on the relatively tiny rotors of a civic is completely pointless, and greatly hinders braking capacity due to the reduced friction surface... they are the braking equivalent of a body kit... they dont make you stop any faster, they only make you LOOK like you can stop faster to people who are ignorant of vehicle performance
get some decent blank rotors and some good pads, then completely flush out your shitted up brake fluid that likely hasnt been changed in the last 10 years with a good DOT4, and you will be amazed at how much better your car really does stop... instead of how much better it LOOKS like it should stop
EP3Hatch1987
Meeeeooowww!!!!!
Okay.. Great explanation ^^ I kinda want the look also so how but juss slotted?
EP3Hatch1987
Meeeeooowww!!!!!
And for pads I'm upgrading 2 hawk hps cause Ima going 2 also start going 2 the track so it's gunna be a dd and occasional track use.. Juss 2 add
still not really needed and a waste of money
the HPS are good pads... just out of curiosity and to clear everything up... what are you meaning by "track" (ie: road course HPDE track days, or drag strip)
EP3Hatch1987
Meeeeooowww!!!!!
Okay..
Autocross and drag
Autocross and drag
EP3Hatch1987
Meeeeooowww!!!!!
Okay.. And any blanks would be good? Like oem or other manufacturers?
brembo blanks FTW... here is the cheapest i've found for anything
Import Replacement Parts | Import Performance & OEM Parts
Import Replacement Parts | Import Performance & OEM Parts
Great info on this thread. Always wondered what the heck the deal was with this. Plus I see blanks are so much cheaper, I'd rather save cash & buy blanks, just my opinion! Anyways, even though I just jumped onto this from a HondaSwap twitter link post. Thanks for the 'info' everyone!
kelsodeez
Active Member
i know everyone has already beat this dead horse, but unless you buy carbon ceramic drilled slotted rotors and you have a 600HP supercar that can get up to 190mph on a straight away and has to slow down to 50 within 100 yards for a turn, then drilled/dimpled/sloted are a waste and actually hurt braking performance.
BUT if you insist on still getting slotted/drilled/dimpled, at least get a two piece rotor. that way at least you can justify them with unsprung weight reduction.
BUT if you insist on still getting slotted/drilled/dimpled, at least get a two piece rotor. that way at least you can justify them with unsprung weight reduction.
I loved my slotted rotors. 
No holes though.
No holes though.
EP3Hatch1987
Meeeeooowww!!!!!
thanx for all the info prolly still go with juss slotted 4 the look.. but 4 sure gunna keep blanks in mind..
I went with a grooved and dimpled design for the car. Results thus far is they don't warp. Can't attribute that to the grooves and dimples, probably more metallurgy - much better than OEM's. Normally, I go through a set of front pads on about a 2 year replacement.I loved my slotted rotors.
Reading through the various comments on this and a similar thread I posted there are a lot of "cons" against drilled, slotted rotors that leave me somewhat confused.
Taking all the cons stacked up at face value I am struggling with a few of the concepts presented as they appear to conflict one another:
I can grasp that slots and holes reduce surface area on the rotors and could indeed require more pad pressure to induce a given coeffieicnt of friction resulting in a given stopping rate. Is that difference significant enough to matter? I don't think it is - everything I run with slotted and drilled or grooved and dimpled rotors has plenty of breaking system capacity to lock wheel/tire at will on dry pavement either race track or street.
However, it could be that the surface irregularity created by groove/slots, holes/dimples actually increase the coeffieient of friction by the nature of the pressure of the pads running against them when hard breaking. One of the posts comments on increased pad wear with grooves/slots, dimples/holes. So, these type of rotors cause higher pad wear while having decreased friction (less braking capacity/capability) due to decreased surface area? Huh? Is that possible?
I haven't ran them long enough to be able to compare pad wear. But, I can state that the amount of crap in the front wheels from brake pads dust hasn't increased with grooved & dimpled rotors. If pad wear were diminished by 50%, I would them change them out about once a year - doesn't take much more time to do front brake pads and purge old fluid, than to change oil/filter and clean and oil the air filter on the car. So, how big a deal is that if the wear argument is true? Quite frankly, I'm not yet convinced it is cuz there ain't no evidence of it on the front wheels.
Prone to cracking and failure in general - shorter life span? Again, experience with the racing karts over the past 8 years and no breaking system issues. All rotors are drilled and slotted. Just change pads when needed - never changed a rotor, never warped a rotor on the karts. Quality rotors are quality rotors and junk is junk.
Don't want to hijack thread or start up a flame war - but, there's my opinion and first hand experience.
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