Overheating

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TurboRex90

Golden EG
So, finally gonna ask all my fellow HS members for some help seeing how my local tuners, and Honda dealership cant figure it out. For those who dont know, im running a D16Z6/ZC block setup in my EF. Block has vitara pistons, Eagle rods, arp studs and a low 8.5:1 compression. I have a .50trim turbo on it, tuned on pump gas with progressive gear based high/low boost... 20lbs in high boost, and 4-12-20 in low.

Now the issue is on some moderately warm days like 70's+ if i drive the car or sit for too long the temp needle will rise and ill have to drive with heat on.. which is not comfortable at all, but that what windows and a sunroof is for haha. Now i think the needle is just having electrical interferance and the car is not running hot but i could be wrong. I think so because if i open the sunroof, and press and hold the button when its fully open the needle will rise about 1/2 of the gauge ( stock temp gauge in the cluster), and ill notice my turbo timer will flicker a little bit. If i turn the lights on the needle has been known to move a hair as well. Even if i turn on the AEM actuator for Even low boost itll show a change in the needles location.
Now i know the fan is on, and its a 10" slim fan..mishimoto as well. I had to hardwire it into the acces. power because the sensor or something went out one day and it wouldnt kick on. Ive changed the coolant, and thermostat 4 times in the past 6 months to see if thats any issue, and it seems to help for a few weeks but then its back to overheating.. Now when the gauge reads that its heating up, and im sitting still, the idle will get a bit spurratic which is a sign maybe it is gettin warm.. But im clue-less.. I wanna fix this so i can take the car on longer rides without the heat or without having to stop, and just to clarrify even when i drive the car without boosting it will still get warm over time, and if i get into it too much it will get hot quick.

Anyone have ANY idea whats could cause this,
 
Are you losing any coolant over time with no signs of leaking? If so, the problem could be just a bad radiator cap.

Also, are you running coolant lines to the turbo? My friend had a similar symptom to what you're experiencing. He was running a t25 on his LS with the coolant lines for the turbo but he was running the stock radiator with a 10" slim fan from autozone. He changed over to a dual core aluminum radiator w/ a 12" slim fan and the highest the temp needle went after that was slightly over half way.
 
No ive checked the rad fluid, the level of collant in the radiator isnt dropping, although if i put som extra coolant in the overflow bottle i have noticed it vanishes sometimes... But the radiator is a Mishimoto half size racing rad... no leaks that ive ever seen.

As far as the turbo, it only has oil lines run, its not water cooled though. But i cant fit any bigger of a radiator, the one i have3 now sits a bit cock-eyed cuz space issue.

But thanks for the ideas.. ill check the cap issue.
 
No ive checked the rad fluid, the level of collant in the radiator isnt dropping, although if i put som extra coolant in the overflow bottle i have noticed it vanishes sometimes... But the radiator is a Mishimoto half size racing rad... no leaks that ive ever seen.

As far as the turbo, it only has oil lines run, its not water cooled though. But i cant fit any bigger of a radiator, the one i have3 now sits a bit cock-eyed cuz space issue.

But thanks for the ideas.. ill check the cap issue.
This leads me to believe it's the cap. Let us know what happens...
 
The regular AutoZone ones kinda suck. They start to deteriorate after one summers use. Try OEM or something along the lines of Beck and Arnley(sp?)
 
Your cooling system requires pressure, pressure on the system presses the boiling point up, which leads your coolant to stay cooler. Just to make sure though, have you bleed the coolant system as well? Air trapped in the cooling system will also allow you to over heat easily too.
 
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