Camber issues

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GlassHeadlights

West West Yall
I slammed my CRX with Function & Form coilovers and got that camber problem. I don't really care about the rear but the front is driving me nuts. Over 65-70 MPH the car kinda floats around and any bump in the road will make the car pull I'm guessing because the tires are sort of riding on the sides?

I never drove the car before the suspension so I guess it could be another issue but no other EF drove as bad as this.

Should I just get this?

Skunk2 88-91 EF Civic 90-93 DA Integra Pro-Series Front Camber Kit
 
that would probably help... mine does fine at high speeds and has pretty bad camber too... but im gonna fix mine soon hopefully... i would do it anyway it would save you on tires in the long run
 
You're right. $250 for a Skunk2 camber kit or tires which are $200 that I would have to replace constantly.

But at 70 MPH you have to hold on with two hands and prepare to be jerked around. Getting the toe sorted out helped a bunch but its just not right.
 
hmm thats weird... i need to invest in a camber kit... but you already know the deal with whats goinon with mine right now so hopefully my current tires last until i get more money
 
Buy the camber kit, at least one that zero's out your camber. My accord had the same problem slammed, that one had atleast a 2.5 -3.0" drop. It still need ball joints and a alignment. Its just not a good investment to drive on a negative camber on a daily driver. Especially if your not racing, and its not benefiting you any.

Heres something to help decide the specs on your camber
eibach_pro-alignment_bef_aft.gif
 
You're alignment might be off too, especially since you said it pulls. Also put into consideration you're driving a crx, theyre reeeaally light cars so going fast when you hit a bump since its so light you kinda float after.
 
I already got the toe aligned but since this is my DD I'll just get it.

I'm going to pop under my car and see if anything is loose because it's a weird float lol.
 
The float can be numerous things. Bad rack and pinion, bad rack and pinion bushings, broken rack and pinion bracket, bad tie rods, bad steering/idler arm, ect... So when you look, grab everything, and shake the shit out of it. All these parts should have minimal to no movement.

Oh and don't zero out the camber. A car with zero camber will handle like shit. Even for a street car. If you notice the posted picture above doesn't say "zero camber" it says "back to factory specs"
 
Oh and don't zero out the camber. A car with zero camber will handle like shit. Even for a street car. If you notice the posted picture above doesn't say "zero camber" it says "back to factory specs"

My mistake. Let me revise myself.

Zero back into factory specs.
 
My mistake. Let me revise myself.

Zero back into factory specs.

Do you know what the factory specs are, I'd like to know myself. I have skunk2 camber kits and the people that did my alignment adjusted it, I never actually looked to see where it was set.
 
The float can be numerous things. Bad rack and pinion, bad rack and pinion bushings, broken rack and pinion bracket, bad tie rods, bad steering/idler arm, ect... So when you look, grab everything, and shake the shit out of it. All these parts should have minimal to no movement.

Oh and don't zero out the camber. A car with zero camber will handle like shit. Even for a street car. If you notice the posted picture above doesn't say "zero camber" it says "back to factory specs"

:werd:

Some racers don't even use camber kits but rather take advantage of the increase in camber to help with handling.
 
I actually just installed a power steering rack off a car that drove fine and it took some of the slack away but not all.

I think I'll get the camber kit then get set it to factory specs.
 
I had a 240sx that we took the springs out completely (then lost them -_-) Not only with the bad bouncing around, but serious tire wear on them as well. Though it looks SO good on a set of 18"s. I burned through tires in like a weeks driving no more than 100 miles.
 
Lol...just driving through a couple tanks of gas when the toe was out gave me this (on my old tires).
 

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seriously though, buy a camber kit. or even an adjustable upper balljoint for the front. it wont take away all the camber, but leaves you with almost what you should have for factory specs. for the back, i would buy the upper adjustable control arm, i have the specs for front and rear, will post them in a little bit.
 
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I'm not worrying about the rear. And I will probably get the front S2 kit.

I checked underneath and the suspension fork bushings on the front lower control arms looked bad.

Anyway I adjusted the toe again and I'll try it out tonight.
 
They look sketchy, but I guess they're cost effictive. $250 vs. $170 ish.

Do they replace the anchor bolt?
Suspension4.gif
 
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