Jackson Racing SuperCharger...... jrsc help for upgrades

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I have a jrsc looking to push 8 to 10 psi I think,it has the 4.0 pulley and the the upgraded crank pulley. It is set on a d16 mini-me swap (y7block w/y8 head) also has brand new water pump and t-belt and s.c. oil has been changed. I will be running hondata s300 and was going to use the base map that came with ths s300. I have 450cc (eclipse) injectors with resistor box, ajustable fpr and under hood fuel gauge it will have Intake with 74mm thottle body and headers no cat and 2.5 exhaust all the way back. it also has act extreme clutch with 9lb. flywheel, and walbro 255 fuel pump (342 high pressure and high flow) also have have cxracing dual core full aluminum radiator with 14" slim fan on it. I will be keeping a/c and p/s. Inside I will have a Greddy boost gauge, Greddy oil pressure gauge and aem wideband.

This is my first time dealing with boost and I am going to put this in my daily driver and I want it to be very reliable. I have been trying to do my homwork to make sure everything I need is done to a T so that I will have no complications. I need some one that tunes or has experience behind them for some help on this. I need to know if there is any thing I am missing or need to get. I am in no hurry to get it in either.This will be going in to my eg9 92 civic.
 
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Sounds like you are on the right track. In my experience, the Hondata basemap for jrsc wasn't all that good. It ran super rich at wot, and was a little lean for low load situations. Learn how to tweak the s300 while you are still N/A before you have a higher risk of breaking stuff under boost. My advice is to leave the stock fuel pressure regulator. The stock 40psi or so of fuel pressure is fine. Not to mention, the jrsc basemaps are for stock fuel pressure.
 
  1. Honestly, you're on the right track but when people talk in big blocks of text with annoying formatting it just gets really annoying and turns people off from trying to help you no matter how pure your cause is. That being said, sidude is right, you are on the right track. Do yourself a favour and get a wideband afr reader and self tune the s300 a tad to fill in the lean/rich spots before you take it to your tuner. Good luck.
 
Sounds like you are on the right track. In my experience, the Hondata basemap for jrsc wasn't all that good. It ran super rich at wot, and was a little lean for low load situations. Learn how to tweak the s300 while you are still N/A before you have a higher risk of breaking stuff under boost. My advice is to leave the stock fuel pressure regulator. The stock 40psi or so of fuel pressure is fine. Not to mention, the jrsc basemaps are for stock fuel pressure.


I have been reading and researching what I can to lean how to tune, I am thinking of taking the tuning class(efi101) in cali, just a matter of planning the trip and setting aside the money. For the base map on the s300, it is running 440cc injectors and I am running 450cc... So i guess i'll run just about right at low loads and extremely rich at wot. Also thats what my next step was the play with my n/a D16 that is in the car right now to get a feel for the maps, cuz I don't care if I blow this motor up. I read somewhere that the most common and average fuel pressure is 43.5, so I'll stick right around 40psi as you say.
 
  1. Honestly, you're on the right track but when people talk in big blocks of text with annoying formatting it just gets really annoying and turns people off from trying to help you no matter how pure your cause is. That being said, sidude is right, you are on the right track. Do yourself a favour and get a wideband afr reader and self tune the s300 a tad to fill in the lean/rich spots before you take it to your tuner. Good luck.


sorry :huh: wasn't trying to piss anyone off ... and I have the wideband. Any tips for anything on the s300 I should look out for or be aware of while playing with it?
 
the s300 has a feature that will automatically adjust the tune for a given injector. Really, there is no need to take a class. It isn't all that complicated. Start playing around on the laptop and learn yourself.
 
the s300 has a feature that will automatically adjust the tune for a given injector. Really, there is no need to take a class. It isn't all that complicated. Start playing around on the laptop and learn yourself.


Ok, I will do that. But I have never experienced a predetination or knock, how do I know when there is to much timing or not enough. also with fuel maps how do I know if i need more or less, what is an n/a d16 supposed to run at at part no throttle, part throttle and wot? should it be 14 to 14.7(no), 13.7 to 14.2(part), and 13.2 to 3.7(wo)?
 
is there a shop anywhere around that you can take it to for some dyno tuning? a street tune can work well, but nothing is as good as an experienced tuner working on a dyno.
 
ldl speed shop in vegas is about as close as I can find or courtney green in salt lake but they are both going to run me 300-350 to tune
 
The insurance of keeping your engine in 1 piece is well worth $350. Just get the tune. I'd also recommend a wideband o2 sensor and gauge. That will help you monitor and tune afr.
 
The insurance of keeping your engine in 1 piece is well worth $350. Just get the tune. I'd also recommend a wideband o2 sensor and gauge. That will help you monitor and tune afr.

thats what I might have to do, but I also want to learn how to tune... and I have aem wideband , greedy boost and greedy oil gauges.


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so... I put the motor in loaded up my base map on the s300 and it idle at like 13 but when I give it gas it sputters/chugs, what would cause this? any tips on what I need to adjust or mess with???
 
k got it running better but its only boosting like 2 psi, and I can see the bypass valve open and close. anyone have an Idea what might be happening?
 
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who knows how much a 4.0 sc pully along with the jr upgrade pulley will boost ?

also anyone know how to check the bypass valve with out pulling supercharger off?
 
who knows how much a 4.0 sc pully along with the jr upgrade pulley will boost ?

also anyone know how to check the bypass valve with out pulling supercharger off?

You should be pushing around 8 psi with the jr crank pulley. To test the bypass valve, pinch off the vacuum line going into the actuator while the car is idling. You should then see the plunger on the valve move. You can also move it by hand when the car is off. You could be getting belt slippage too. That will cause a loss of boost.
 
belt slippage has happened to me before! not with the sc belt but with the alternator belt. they both have to be pretty damn tight.
 
You should be pushing around 8 psi with the jr crank pulley. To test the bypass valve, pinch off the vacuum line going into the actuator while the car is idling. You should then see the plunger on the valve move. You can also move it by hand when the car is off. You could be getting belt slippage too. That will cause a loss of boost.


thanks, I figured I should be pushing 8 to 10 psi but wasn't sure. also with the bypass valve, when I give it gas I can see the plunger work properly. It goes all the way down till it hits the s/c where it is supposed to. do you think there could be and issue with the blade opening and closing? I have tightened the belt twice pretty damn tight and it didn't seem to help, but I am getting a new belt anyways;).

by the way 99sidude when I first got my s/c bout 2 years ago I started doing research and came across your thread and that helped me out on preping it. you did a nice cover on it
 
Ok, I will do that. But I have never experienced a predetination or knock, how do I know when there is to much timing or not enough. also with fuel maps how do I know if i need more or less, what is an n/a d16 supposed to run at at part no throttle, part throttle and wot? should it be 14 to 14.7(no), 13.7 to 14.2(part), and 13.2 to 3.7(wo)?

Do you need to do any of these fuel measurements for a turbo?
 
Do you need to do any of these fuel measurements for a turbo?

Those numbers maybe be off and a little lean for a supercharger. A turbo does not run as hot as a s/c and will require less fuel. But depending on your engine build and boost you will have to gauge it, most part throttle should be around 14.7 a/f
 
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