98+ ITR Header clearance on my EH3

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

CAFROG

CAFROG

Honda Minion
VIP
So I put the header on last night. Before I did, I took a picture of my DC header's clearance (big ass dent and all). Getting the new catalytic converter hooked up to the exhaust today (After I drive it over to the shop.....open header). Hoping to feel a difference with the switch. The 2" vs. 2.5" plus the removal of the dent (lets see how long I can keep this one without a dent)

FYI the Dent is from a ex-girlfriend driving my hatch when I was drinking (she effing sucked at driving over speed bumps)

100_1234.jpg


And the JDM ITR header. Before install.....I sat them right next to one another and it looked like the JDM header was about 1/4" taller (so I figure a 1/4" less clearance.

100_1235.jpg


So.....yes the stuff I read was true.....it sits pretty low. But I am optimistic in its survival on the roads with me behind the wheel.....famous last words.
 
Last edited:
I do have the stock one. Just didn't put it on yet....got stainless hardware today. I did think about getting the one your posted.
That skid plate does look like it will take more punishment. I got the stock one so It would look "normal" for mr. smog guy master fresh

Heading to get the cat put on at 11:30
 
stock one?

you mean the "heat shield"????

yeah that flimsy sheet metal POS isnt going to protect shit from shit

i have the fastline performance skid plate on my sol.... and i can not endorse it strongly enough... BUY ONE

it is a very solid plate
it works very well
it has saved my header a few times

:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 
Okay....hell...I just bought one for $75 shipped and taxed. Wonder if it will fit with the lower heat shield.....we'll see....doubtful. If I can't use the shield....I'll have one up for sale.

Exhaust came out good. Since that stupid Header bracket doesn't fit on B16's....I decided to run a stainless steel flex pipe (about 3" of the pipe will actually flex).
And stainless ain't cheap lol. Today (after the skid plate purchase) I spent another $200 on a car that ain't worth $5K
 
you use the skid plate in place of the lower heat shield
you can still use the upper heat shield with it though
 
one of the reasons I hate DC headers. My 65$ shipped ebay header held up better than that 200$ coke can thin DC garbage.

any notice in gains with the ITR and 2.5" exhaust? low end or top end?
 
Hard to tell what hp change yet....I only drove it hard once since and it was at 3pm when it was 90+ degrees out.

I'm driving out of town tonight and I'll mess with it when its cool out.

It did feel stronger with the A/C on :thumbsup:

Only problem I had with DC was the performance. One of the only new headers you can buy thats CARB legal and the output kinda sucks
 
Here's a pic of the header with heat shield on. I like it. Put my OEM air box and valve cover back on and its smog-a-riffic

100_1236.jpg
 
looking good.. you really make me miss my hatchie
 
Just took a picture of my new tail lights and Honda Emblems on the wheels. I put them on months ago but just washed the beer can yesterday so I took a picture. Old School License Plate

100_1242.jpg
 
GlassHeadlights said:
:ditto: One of the cleanest...

Btw, what the difference between a 96 ITR and 98 ITR?
Click to expand...


this is for the JDM versions:

96-97 - 200hp@8000RPM 133.8lb-ft@7500 RPM, 98+ 200hp@8000RPM 137.5lb-ft@6200 RPM
96-97 has cast iron 4-2-1 header, 98+ has stainless steel 4-1 header
98+ has carbon faux spark plug cover
98+ has intake ports cleaned up by machine rather than by hand (more accurate)
transmission---- 1st ---- 2nd ----3rd ---- 4th ---- 5th ------ FD
96-97 gears = 3.230 - 2.105 - 1.458 - 1.107 - 0.848 - 4.400
98+... gears = 3.230 - 2.105 - 1.458 - 1.034 - 0.787 - 4.785
00-01 has cams similar to CTR profile
 
My Girlfriend was driving in front of me Yesterday and she says my car looks like a tri-pod with the two front tires and the header in the middle (through her rear view mirror). She said that with the DC header too but this one is much wider on the bottom b/c they stagger the runners
 
I have been hearing a hissing sound from under the car (while rev'ing not idling or normal cruising) and took it to the muffler guy today. He did find two pin holes to weld shut but after that......no leaks. I still hear the hissing sound so I googled. I found a RSX forum that talked about flex pipes and a guy claimed his also hissed from day one. Mine is the interlocking style with a coiled lining inside. I think this coiled lining is making the hiss as it passes by.....I know there are other types that are still stainless but a double lining of stainless mesh. But I then ran across a pic of a mesh flex pipe where the mesh swelled up and the inside diameter of the pipe shrunk to 3/4". SO I am stumped

My options (that I can see):

1) Customize/Fabricate the ITR header bracket (since the bracket for the header don't fit B16's)
-this lets me get rid of the flex pipe for good

2) Try one of those dual layer mesh flex pipes

3) Effing live with it

Anyone see another possible solution.....let me know
 
Yeah.....#1 might be a pain in the ass to fabricate. That bracket has a curve to it to go around the drive shaft so I can't make my own very easy. Couldn't find anyone online that did anything on a B16 with the ITR header except the flex pipe....or not a damn thing and rolled like that 'til the wheels fell off. or the flange welds broke lol
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top