B20 Swap

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RickParker

New Member
:shrug2: Just a few questions on this. Im puttin a B20B out of a 97 cr-v into my 96 teg LS. Are the distributors excatly the same. If i would take the distributor of the b20 and put it on the b18 would it fire correctly? Are the ECU the same ot would i need the one from the cr-v or can i switch a few sensors around? Does the tranny bolt right up? Would i need to switch flywheels. Ive been doin research on this put those areas are still gray. Its my daily driver for right now so i need it done in a few days so i can drive it. Im goin to be rebuilding the b18 too. Not sure which route im takin with the build either?
 
Distributors are 100% the same, ECU is not the same you will need a B20 ecu(some guys run the LS ecu and claim to make more power on the ass dyno), you can use the LS intake mani for a bit of a upgrade, if its auto I dont think so but if its a manual tranny then yes you would need to remove the flex plate and install a flywheel, tranny bolts up 100% perfect, and yes you can switch sensors from both engines.
 
Does the b20 ecu plug into my wiring harness? I figured that i would need to install a flywheel just didnt know if my ls flywheel would bolt into the b20. Im taking a power loss of about 20 if my research is correct i just needed something to ride around in while i rebuild the motor. Im on a limited monthly budget and hoping to have the motor done by november and the body and chassis/suspension work complete by spring '11. Any other advice on this would be appreciated. And am completely clueless on the build so far!
 
HHhhmmm.. I wonder if the CRV ecu would give better mileage somehow since it's probably setup for more torque..?

Also, I wonder which is heavier?

E
 
to be honest i dont think there is much difference in weight.. and as for the ecu it may get a few more miles since the integ is lighter but not with my foot
 
If your running a Manual LS you need a Manual ecu. I dont think there was a Manual CRV but I might be wrong. The LS flywheel will bolt up with 0 problems, the both use the same crank and rods, only diff from a B20 and a B18a is bore size (81 LS and 84mm B20) and intake manifold.

the Ecu should be the same both OBD2a.

you will gain more power and torque from the b20 than the ls. swap the intake mani's, use the ls mani on the b20.

weight isnt a factor, they both weigh about the same.
 
Thats what i figured.. just wanted to double check.. Another ? what would make an engine misfire on all four cylinders, a special code P1300, with a new dizzy, new timing belt w/ tensioner and everything at TDC and the valve lashed to spec? Im stumped.. Ohh and another thing is that when I rev the motor my computer says right around 3000 but the tach is bouncing between 5g and 8g.. the cable is intach and not loose whatsoever?
 
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Distributor talk and a jumping tach......makes me say there is something wrong with the distributor you are running. Got the LS one still? If so...try it

Run a OBD2A P75 ECU....it lets you rev higher (higher rev limiter) for sure but I'm not educated on the fuel curve differences
 
sorry I lose track of were I post, If im helping you please feel free to PM me.

swap dizzy's, make sure your firing order is correct (plug wires in correct place on dizzy), cap and rotor clean?

are you using auto ecu on a manual car or the other way arround?

make sure all wires have good connection and not corroded.
 
P1300 seems like it can be caused by lots of things.

Blown head gasket

burnt ignition coil

distributor cap

distributor rotor

sparkplugs

sparkplug wires

dirty or malfunctioning EGR

O2 sensor (PM me if needed have two one bosch NIB and another with about 15-30miles NTK .4 wire)

All that i found.
 
Distributor talk and a jumping tach......makes me say there is something wrong with the distributor you are running. Got the LS one still? If so...try it

Run a OBD2A P75 ECU....it lets you rev higher (higher rev limiter) for sure but I'm not educated on the fuel curve differences


I tested the ignition coil with a mutlimeter and got 0.6 ohms. from research thats dead on.. I also tested the ICM??< I think thats what its called and it tested great.. I have the new LS dizzy on it now but have tried the one from the B20 and it did not make a difference..
 
P1300 seems like it can be caused by lots of things.

Blown head gasket

burnt ignition coil

distributor cap

distributor rotor

sparkplugs

sparkplug wires

dirty or malfunctioning EGR

O2 sensor (PM me if needed have two one bosch NIB and another with about 15-30miles NTK .4 wire)

All that i found.


Blown head gasket>> Brand new.. no oil in the radiator and is still green

burnt ignition coil>> tested got 0.6 ohms

distributor cap>> brand new.. Also used the old one and used the one from the B20 and vice cersa

distributor rotor>> new and swapped as did above

sparkplugs>> somewhat new but they are burnt on corroded

sparkplug wires>> resister test came back positive

dirty or malfunctioning EGR>> Bypassed the EGR and didnt show any difference.. worse or better

O2 sensor (PM me if needed have two one bosch NIB and another with about 15-30miles NTK .4 wire) Are you saying you have two? Im doubting that this is bad.. I ran an O2 monitor test on it and got an excellent curve response.. Is there two O2 sensor.. a primary and a secondary?
 
sorry I lose track of were I post, If im helping you please feel free to PM me.

swap dizzy's, make sure your firing order is correct (plug wires in correct place on dizzy), cap and rotor clean?

are you using auto ecu on a manual car or the other way arround?

make sure all wires have good connection and not corroded.


Sorry about multiposting.. Now know how to multiguote lol.. firing order is good cleaned bout of them with rubbing alcohol.. and nothing is corroded.. My car is Manual.. The cr-v is auto.. so the cr-v ecu wont work in my car, right?
 
Sorry about multiposting.. Now know how to multiguote lol.. firing order is good cleaned bout of them with rubbing alcohol.. and nothing is corroded.. My car is Manual.. The cr-v is auto.. so the cr-v ecu wont work in my car, right?

It might work, but you'll always have an error light because the ECU will be looking for some inputs from the auto transmission...
 
P75 ECU is the way to go. If you had an LS in there before.....do you still have the ECU???
 
Yeah i didnt do the sawap yet.. Still getting all the pieces for the puzzle.. I got a steal on it basically, for 10 bucks.. That new dizzy is getting returned for "malfunctioning" and will be buying this motor for 150 bucks with the ecu.. The truck was sitting with damage from a t-bone accident.. If anyone needs body panels or little miscellaneous stuff let me know im sure i can get these parts.. anyway im still stumped on the b18. ive tried everything but it just seems that ill not know what the problem is until i rip into it for a rebuild..
 
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