crank pully problems

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ok so i have a 1988 civic hatch with a 1991 acura integra b18a1 now the problem im having is the water pump went out so went to replace it and found that my timing belt is loser than it should be so i bought a new one so when it came time to take crank pulley off the bolt wont budge ive used a impact gun, tho i don't think its that strong of one and ive also tried super heating it with map gas as well as use liquid wrench penetrating oil then tried a breaker bar trying to go both ways and all im doing is dragging the car along the concrete now correct me if im wrong which way does this bolt come off isn't it still lefty loosey righty tighty or is or reverse for the crank pulley bolt. any other ideas that may help would be appreciated
 
Use a larger impact gun and/or hit it with more air pressure.

Application of enough heat to make a difference will likely result in collateral damage. Don't try to heat it unless you have mondo experience with a Rose Bud tip and such.

It could be corrosion or rust - but, I suspect it's just flatassed tight. It's a large hard bolt with fine threads and pulls down real snug.

First time I pulled the crank pulley or harmonic balancer off the D16A6 in my hatch was fun. Fortunately I had the impact guns already. Once the bolt was out, (not a big deal with a 1/2" drive gun @ 110psi), I had to use a good 3 prong puller to get the pulley off. It was frozen on to the crankshaft.

When you re-assemble, be sure to use some anti-seize and torque it correctly. Also, make sure the key is in place in the slot before screwing in the bolt.
 
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Ok I run the gun at 145 psi and no go which way does the bolt turn?
When viewed from the end looking through the wheel well - turn it to the left or counter clockwise.

Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosie.

Put the hammer to it!

The 1/2" drive gun I use is capable of 200 ft lbs @ rated pressure as I recall - that's probably somewhere in the vicinity of 90 - 110 psi. I'm not sure if I brought out Big Bertha or not for the crank pulley the first time - don't remember. Bertha is a 3/4" drive cheapo monster I bought at Harbor Freight. I do remember it being tight and had to use a gear/wheel puller on it once the bolt was out.

Good luck with it.
 
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Get a piece of metal pipe like a fence post or exhaust tube and slide it on the end of your ratchet to give u more leverage. The longer the ratchet, the more power u can get behind it. Have a friend wedge a prybar or screwdriver in the flywheel teeth to stop the engine from turning. I have taken the starter out before to get at the flywheel teeth to hold it still while u turn the crank bolt with a breaker bar.
 
Been here for sure!

1/2" Impact....no go.

Hold the teeth of the flywheel through the starter hole and breaker bar on the crank bolt....no go (bent two of my big dawg flat head on those teeth lol)

There's a tool they sell that is hexagon shaped (the crank pulley hole is hexagon shaped) with a hole in the middle for a 19mm deep socket to fit through. It also has a piece of flat stock welded to it and it has a slot for a 1/2" Ratchet to fit so you can hold the crank in place while the 19mm takes of the nut with a breaker bar or what ever.

I couldn't wait for the tool in the mail and no one local had it. (although Reibes had it a few months later....a-holes lol). I just measured the crank pulley hole and went to a bolt/nut specialty store to get a nut that fit. I made sure it was at least an inch thick.

I fit the nut into the crank pulley hole and put a pipe wrench on it (use what ever.....adj wrench, wrench to fit it, etc) The 19mm deep socket fits right threw the threaded hole of the nut. My friend got on that stubborn crank bolt while I held the nut in the crank pulley hole with the pipe wrench and it popped off really quick and easy. No heat.....just some WD-40 that sat on there for 20 minutes.
 
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So what ur saying is get a bolt that's big enough to fit the hexagon shaped pattern on the pully and fit a 19mm socket through that bolt and then have someone hold a wrench on the big bolt while someone else looses the crank bolt?
 
So what ur saying is get a bolt that's big enough to fit the hexagon shaped pattern on the pully and fit a 19mm socket through that bolt and then have someone hold a wrench on the big bolt while someone else looses the crank bolt?
Yes, that's exactly what he is suggesting. You can use the front frame crossmember for support - if the wrench that you use to hold crank from turning is too short to reach the cross member - use an extension on it. You'll probably need an extension on the one used for the bolt also just to generate the torque needed. And that's a decent recommendation.

I'd be tempted to look around for a larger gun as a loaner or rent one. A 3/4" drive with a 3/4" to 1/2" adaptor on it. A decent 3/4" drive impact gun will crank out 500 or more ft lbs of torque and outta git 'r done. I can't imagine that bolt taking more than 500 ft lbs to loosen.

Time ya spend rounding up the stuff, you could probably get a gun. And you already have air.

It's really just about your preference.

Good luck with it.

FYI: http://www.harborfreight.com/air-to...-inch-standard-anvil-impact-wrench-32871.html Will push 500 ft lbs at rated pressure of 90 psi for $65.00. I use higher quality guns in the 1/4", 3/8" & 1/2' drive sizes - use the 3/4" infrequently so it's a cheapie.

Impact%20Gun.JPG
 
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+1/2" impact should get it off. When my brother wanted me to change his water pump I had him drive to my brother-in-law's work to loosen it(I believe it was still a 1/2" but bigger/stronger than what he normally uses on cars). A 1" should have no problem taking it off though; but it's mainly diesel/heavy machine shops that have these.
 
The Nut idea has worked for me. I helped another guy on this site with the same problem. He tried everything before trying my idea.....he tried to use heat too.....no good. He even went to numerous shops and their impact guns didn't touch it either. Funny thing was he lived close to me and I went out and bought him a nut (its like $3). It worked great for him.

Try my idea before you go and spend big cash on an impact gun that you'll hardly ever need (especially on a Honda)

Fastenal is a bolt specialy company thats all over Northern California migth be one around you too
 
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well carfrog ill have to give you your props your idea worked took a bit but it worked i simply just drove my car down to the local bolt and nut shop that carries ten of thousands of bolts and such grabbed a bunch had the lady there walk out with me and i test fitted a few till i found a perfect fit got home jacked car up took tire off and put the bolt in there and used a monkey wrench of all things because my biggest crescent wrench was slightly to small and wedge the wrench on the frame is such a way it wouldn't move then grabbed my breaker bar with extensions and a 19mm deep well socket and i twisted 2 extensions before i grabbed my trusty 1/2 drive ratchet and just let it hang low and i just the used the front support of the car and just shoved the wrench with my foot and it came off easy.
 
Outstanding! Glad you got it and glad you didn't hurt yourself in the process.
 
lol i did the bleeping breaker bar hit my ankle and its swollen lol but anyways to try and answer eman's question im not one hundred percent sure i think it was 1 3/4 but it was a thicker heavy duty NUT cost me $2.50 and when i say 1 3/4 i mean from one flat side to the other
 
.......the bleeping breaker bar hit my ankle and its swollen.......
I missed the boat here and have thought about whether I should post this or not. You're done and successully. Not back seat driving here. But for future members that have a similar problem and use search engine to arrive at this thread/solution.

We got so focused on the solution, we forgot to mention pitfalls in the arena of safety.

I meant to post about dangers back before you slammed your leg/shin. Sorry I didn't, may or may not have mattered anyway - but, it should have been mentioned.

Using an impact gun one should always wear eye protection and gloves are a very good idea - gloves are good for most all auto maintenance. When applying high amounts of torque things can get critical fast. Bolts snap, metal fragments can go flying, washers flying, bolt heads flying out of the socket on the gun, sockets can even fly off, etc.

Doing it the old school way with torque extentions and hopping up and down on wrenches is also dangerous. Pre-load conditions exist and things break, slip off, and bolts can snap loose suddenly.

Then comes application of heat - another area that warrants caution and has lots of risk and potential for injury or damage.

I've done it both ways lots of times.

Always, use lots of caution. And if you're not comfortable doing whatever it is your doing, get some help. Professional help if necessary.
 
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So here is the tool I found at the parts store today. Got the job done very quickly! Although, it cost me $40 (holy fawk!)....BUT....they called it a "loaner tool" and told me to bring it back when I was done for a full refund. Or I could just keep it. Worked like a charm.

IMG_0272.jpg


....and if you have the motor out like me, you can line up the hole on the tool handle with the threaded hole in the bracket for the lower mount (used a 17mm bolt from the passenger side, front, lower transmission mount). Made it that much easier.
 
yeah i tried to get that tool none of the shops around here had one so i had to basically come up with my own lol, and as to mod mans comment he is right about safety lol but i stepped of the extension and it caused it to roll then the breaker bar came down on my ankle was a mistake and accidents happen
 
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