having second thoughts... help...

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im having second thoughts about my d series build... i priced parts the other day and its gonna be 1300 just for bottom end... ouch. i think for that i could find a wrecked integra and swap the LS in, i know i LOVED my other hatch that had the ls... i just dont think i can realistically do this on my budget... even though a nitrous d16 sounded really nice... i just dont think i can beet the torque and power and aftermarket support of the ls, then i can do the ls/vtec setup later... im looking for opinions, should i throw some bearings in the d16y5 block i have get the crank done (if needed) and sell it? or keep it for future needs?

:cliffs:
having doubts about building the single slammer

should i throw fresh bearings in my y5 bottom end and sell it?

looking for opinions on what to do...

also looking for the cheapest way to still have it reliable... i think if i take my time on the b-swap i can make it reliable...
 
Ya wanna dance, ya gotta pay the piper.

Not throwing that in your face - it's just the way it is.

I paid $2200 for my '91 hatch back in 2002.

Wheels, tires, struts, full brake job, alarm, stereo, tower braces, radiator, Optima battery, stainless header and catback, rebuild tranny, clutch, polyurethane busings........

I don't even know what all that cost - probably in the neighborhood of $5k and I did all the work except for alarm and tranny.

Now the motor, looking at $2.5k for a stage 1 ZC twin cam build. That includes buying the motor shipped to my front door, then a full rebulid.

Options, there are always options. Doing the re-build, means essentially a new motor will go into the car - that's the way I want to go.

Funny, I didn't advise you here - I shared what I did with mine and why. Reminds me of a business I was involved in years ago. We went to some consultants for advice on setting up depreciation schedules. That's basically how you take write off's for new equipment. 3 years, 5 years, 10 years. Ended up going with 5 year and what I know now, 10 year is probably best. The business was a small regional pro sound and lighting shop. The consultants were from SCORE (Service mans Core of Retired Executives). When I asked the guy what to do he essentially said "I can't really tell you because I don't know that business". "I know business, and could get you in the ball park, but you really need to figure that out yourself".

Carefully consider advice - your situation is your situation and nobody else's. Gather imputs, feedback and make your own INFORMED decisions.
 
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... well then lol. i wasnt looking for somebody to tell me exactly what to do i was just looking for opinions and why i should go that route... i've been considering a vitara build also but im worried about reliability
 
... well then lol. i wasnt looking for somebody to tell me exactly what to do i was just looking for opinions and why i should go that route... i've been considering a vitara build also but im worried about reliability
You're on the right track bro.

Build yourself a nice ride. Don't put all the emphasis under the hood. Suspension, brakes, struts, interior, exhaust, paint, wheels/tires and so on.......
 
If you're looking to sell just the engine, it's really not worth it to spend cash rebuilding the bottom end just to give it away for next to nothing.
 
You're on the right track bro.

Build yourself a nice ride. Don't put all the emphasis under the hood. Suspension, brakes, struts, interior, exhaust, paint, wheels/tires and so on.......

it has a pretty decent suspension on it already, some nice wheels, i would like some tires that are a little more grippy (good year viva2's right now), i think ill buy i skunk2 camber kit before i start on the engine though, about 4,000 miles on these tires and the fronts were pretty worn so i rotated them to the back, it has a full 2.25" exhaust with a resonator, high flow cat, and 3a muffler that doesnt sound too bad, the paint isnt too bad besides the black hood and clear peeling on the roof, i want to get brembo blanks with hawk pads too, for the engine i may throw in a mild cam with a cam gear and get a decent tune for now, hopefully push around 125-130 to the wheels, i need to upgrade the clutch too pretty badly

If you're looking to sell just the engine, it's really not worth it to spend cash rebuilding the bottom end just to give it away for next to nothing.

well i bought the bottom end for $40 with a spun bearing, so i thought i could throw some cheap bearings in but the cheapest are $70 so then i'd have $110 in it plus my labor, i dont think i could get that much out of it, so i may keep it for now
 
Your doing well with it.

An adjustable cam timing sprocket is nice. Allows you do dial in the cam to the sweet spot. I'm running the cam in D16A6 ~1-2 degrees advanced. Gives it just a hint of more bottom end - which makes it more driveable. I have a cool little shaft I made up that will hold two cam timing sprockets and is keyed common to them both.

It allows one to "Baseline" the adjustable sprocket to the stock one. Makes it easy.

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Cam%20Tool%202.jpg


My shop assistant, technical advisor and security field marshall - Casey.

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well i bought the bottom end for $40 with a spun bearing, so i thought i could throw some cheap bearings in but the cheapest are $70 so then i'd have $110 in it plus my labor, i dont think i could get that much out of it, so i may keep it for now

Considering that people practically give those D16 bottom ends away even when they're good- it's not worth your money to rebuild and sell it.
 
alright so i think ill try to sell as is or just keep it for spare parts to add to my collection
 
so i've been diggin around tonight and found if i use the P2M pistons from the y5 and a thinner (.025") headgasket i can get a 9.475:1 cr or if i can find P2P pistons from a y8 i can get a 9.679:1 cr, plus my head will be milled so that will raise it a little also, do these numbers sound close? i think i may do something like this
 
What are your power goals exactly?

I myself am building a nitrous motor(though biased towards NA); hint...it's nowhere close to done. :(
 
well they WERE around 200 without nitrous but now that i have changed my mind a little to focus on other things i think around 125-130 to the wheels for as cheap as possible
 
120-130 should be doable with a i/h/e(a good header), increased compression(PG6 or PM7 pistons), and tune.
 
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