v-tec help

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rondogg779

New Member
got a 97 accord with jdm h22a.the v-tec is not popping.i ran some wires the other day just playing around with it and it will pop if you run it to the battery.so i ran two wires inside the car and hit it at like 4500 and it seemed to have lost a little power.you could hear the v-tec and it sounded good but just didnt do anything for power.i would like to figure this out today.could the pressure switch be bad?????any suggestions would be great.
 
vtec does not hit that low, it was prolly the secondaries you heard. if the switch was bad you would have a check engine light on for it. also check the oil level
 
well from what i read v-tec is supposed to kick in somewhere around 4,500.i do have a check engine light on but it was due to the shitty swap(obd1 motor with obd2 ecu).oil level is fine and would i not be losing compression if i blew the welds on the intake???the car runs fine my boys gsr can just barely keep up but i cant figure out why the v-tec makes it lose power.i only made it hit v-tec 3 times and all times were at 4500 until 6,000.any other suggestions??
 
You probably blew the welds on the intake manifold

well from what i read v-tec is supposed to kick in somewhere around 4,500.i do have a check engine light on but it was due to the shitty swap(obd1 motor with obd2 ecu).oil level is fine and would i not be losing compression if i blew the welds on the intake???the car runs fine my boys gsr can just barely keep up but i cant figure out why the v-tec makes it lose power.i only made it hit v-tec 3 times and all times were at 4500 until 6,000.any other suggestions??
BWUAHAHAHAHAHA...

The only way the actual VTEC engagement would cause you to feel a loss in power is if it was engaging too early. So I think it's just your ass dyno playing tricks on you... As far VTEC cutting off at 6000, check your wiring. Could have a loose solder or crimp somewhere. But you did say you got CEL's on so I suggest knocking out all those problems first. VTEC is the least of your worries if you got CEL's on...
 
and i will have to double look but im thinkin vtec on the h22a cuts on at 52 or 5600rpm
 
either way i ran it with v-tec on up to 7,000(where it hits rev limiter.)the cel is on because its the obd1 motor with od2 computer.there is quite a bit of fucked up wiring and im slowly untangling that.but the motor runs strong leaks no oil or water.i my cooling fan just quit working on me though,i checked all relays and fuses and nothing so i ran a toggle switch for the time being but do i need to run both fans??/
 
they dont depending on the cel, yeah you need to run the correct ecu and ect ect for the vtec to work correctly
 
ok what if i was to hook up a tach with a shift light,run the v-tec to the shift light,and set it to come on at 5,200 would a constant power possibly make it work better???if not its going on craigslist lol...
 
for vtec to work correct it need more than just to be cut on, the air fuel ect ect is changed by the vtec ecu at the cut on point, just wire it all up the way it is suppose to be.
 
ha funny.i ran it all the way to the ecu and its still not getting power.what other computers are compatible?does it have to be from an accord?i know it needs to be obd2 but could i snatch one from an ex civic?
 
how can i find out if my computer is obd1 or obd2?im not for sure which one it is.if i get some numbers off of it and put them on here would someone know???
 
ok,couldnt find much but i appreciate the help.the car is now bogging down around 5,000 im just going to get rid of it im done fucking with it.thanks again.
 
I don't know if this helps, but mine was kicking in late and check enginge light was on. Apparently, my OC censor was off. See it that helps. I went back to normal after I changed it.
 
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