Help... Can't set idle and need more rpm.

[kenoverby]

Help... Can't set ignition timing on 1993 civic dx 3dr.

The initial problem of not being able to set idle was solved. Read my last post for newest problem witch is "can't set ignition timing".

!!Solved!! The rpm reading on the timing gun was set to 2 cycle engines and so I wasn't getting the proper readings. My new problem is ignition timing. Read my last post at bottom.
Hey master techs. I can't adjust my idle any more on my civic and need some ideas.
My initial rpm reading is 320rpm and it needs to be 420rpm plus or minus 50rpm while the EACV "electronic air control valve" is disconnected.
I can't adjust my idle any more on my civic and need some ideas. I changed my failed solenoid Electronic Idle Air Controle Valve "EACV" after it was humming. The only parts I have not replaced on the engine and power train systems are the Fast Idle Air Valve "FAV" witch is located on the bottom of the throttle body and havn't replaced the distributor body, egniter, coil, and spark plug wires. Everything besides the piston, piston rings, oil pump, bearings, and crankshaft are new.
I need to adjust my timing only after I have the base idle set. I currently have the timing set by holding the throttle to the proper idle. And basicly I need more rpm and my adjustment screw is all the way unscrewed. "I did unplug the EACV and reset ECU after attempting to set idle and finding problem."

The reson I have done so much to this car is when I bought it it had a Honda CX 8 valve head instead of the 16 valve head it was assembled with. I had a overheat somehow on the freeway and after pouring cold water on the engine "i was young and cool at the time hehe" I heared a crack sound near the water pump and water was getting into the oil after that. Five years later I started working on my car and found it had a headgasket failure and the block was good and normal. I reinstalled the head but didn't machine the surface and after one over heat climbing a mountain it failed another head gasket. I purchased a 16 valve head on ebay all machined and pretty and well I think it sounds like new but possible more damage in areas I am unfamiliar with like the idle air control valves that had gone through running on steem since the cooling system didn't hold pressure after a head gasket failure. Basicly alot of stuff could and did get damaged. I already replaced a contaminated o2 sensor and changed the oil twice.

Below is my parts.
1993 Honda Civic DX 3Door
D15B7 engine with PM3-6 head "valve timing is correct and set"
New factory gaskets and seals
Machined new head
New factory distributor cap and rotor
40k mile ignition coil
115k mile old distributor
115k mile old rest of parts "orginal parts that came with vehicle."
New factory air filter, oil filter, spark plugs, injectors, fuel filter, charcoal canister.
New mobile one synthetic engine oil.
New hoses and cooling system flush and kept toped off.
Good fuel changed twice a month.

Tommarow morning I will try and swap out my 115k mile old Fast Idle Air Valve with a 40k mile old one that I have as a spare.
So any ideas master techs?

Here is my proceedure I will do first thing in the morning.

Just to let you guys know, this air control valve and the camshaft are my favorite devices.

 

[serrilion]

humm... how's ya fuel pump running? idk if it could be a problem... but just another idea to check also i noticed ya didn't change out ya PCV valve located behind/ under ya fuel rail on the intake mani on the left side... little plastic 90 degree elbow.. could be ya problem as well, but idk.. just some ideas

 

[kenoverby]

humm... how's ya fuel pump running? idk if it could be a problem... but just another idea to check also i noticed ya didn't change out ya PCV valve located behind/ under ya fuel rail on the intake mani on the left side... little plastic 90 degree elbow.. could be ya problem as well, but idk.. just some ideas

I new it was a old main relay so I changed that and the fuel pump is pressurizing the system good and normal.
I worked on my car today and found some things.
I replaced the fast idle valve and advanced my timing. I got my idle solved but still have low vacume and retarded timing. I can't adjust the ignition timing any more. I was told that it is a valve problem because of the vacume results. I did notice a valve spring looked week witch came assembled on my rebuilt head I got from ebay. I think they mis-matched a spring. Any ideas if I should simple replace that spring and adjust valve gapping when engine is hot and if that would fix the vacume problem? All hoses are new, new pcv valve, and new gaskets with seals. The distributor is not new and may need replacing along with spark plug wires.

 

[CAFROG]

I "think" you can adjust it with the car off (back retarded). Just loosen the bolts and move it....tighten back down. If you are not jumping the service connector.....the ECU should put it where it was. And then you can jump the service connector and have more room to advance it to a more desirable point.

 

[kenoverby]

I "think" you can adjust it with the car off (back retarded). Just loosen the bolts and move it....tighten back down. If you are not jumping the service connector.....the ECU should put it where it was. And then you can jump the service connector and have more room to advance it to a more desirable point.

Interesting, I like that idea and was thinking about it earlier. Well if it's not in the book it is needing exploration hehe. Ill try it tomarrow.

 

[CAFROG]

Did you try to advance it without jumping the service plug? If so, that would be why you have ran out of room

 

[kenoverby]

Did you try to advance it without jumping the service plug? If so, that would be why you have ran out of room

Can a vacume problem caused by a week cylinder caused by wrong valve springs cause ecu to say that the map sensor shows low load and cause retard spark and so I can't set my ignition timing? I know I have a spring that is wrong and the cylinder acts like it's misfiring since it is weeker then other 3. The vacume reading is pulsing and it is showing "Ignition Timing Late". So I think the pulsing of the gauge tells that there is a valve problem. And my main problem is that I can't set ignition timing. The head is a re-built and machined one from ebay. Sounds strong other then that one wrong exhaust valve spring. So what do you master techs think? Should I buy a new distributor? Could I set ignition timing with a week cylinder even though I can set idle? I distributor is at it's limit and I need more advancment.

 

[CAFROG]

You have a big rat's nest of 'possible' problems. Do you even know the degrees the timing is right now? Which leads to the next question.....how do you know its a ignition timing situation when you have a vacuum problem too.?