simple rebuild?

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M

mptED3

New Member
Hi im new here and I am going to rebuild a spare d16 block i picked up and try to use my d15 head on this spare to replace the current i have now. i will try to keep updates as i go. I want to do this right the first time so any critiques of my methods is appreciated!

here is what i have so far.







 
thanks for the advice! i hope to have the d16 block ready to go in by summer and then once i rebuild the d15 block put that back in by the end of summer.
 
I like to polish the interior of the block, radius the nonmating sharp interior edges just enough to make the interior look nice, it's nearly free and makes me feel like I've put that little extra into an engine.

For the most part there isn't much work, but every so often there are casting flaws that just bug the tar out of me.

Its my opinion that your not going to get much if anything out of doing this other than slightly faster oil return to the pan and some extra bit of pride in going the extra mile.

I got the idea your not crunched for time, it's just a thought.

Maurice
 
my time constraint just got more constrained. i need to have this new motor in my car by the middle of april. im sending the block to be tested and the head to be tested this week and i need to buy the conversion harness from hamotorsports; ECU Jumper Harness - OBD0 DPFI to OBD1. anybody have experience with this company?

oh yeah how do i test to make sure a p28 ecu im buying is legit?
 
doing the swap next week. putting in bearings this week, swapping all block components this week. here we go!
 
i couldnt swap the coolant inlet line from the b2 to the a6. so i bought a jdm d15b non vtec and just slapped it in real quick. well not quick it took 2 months from start to finish with the change in plan! haha live and learn. no im waiting for more money to buy an obd1 dizzy and obd1 injector clips to finalize my vtec swap.

but now ive got a d16a6 block with internals and new rings and bearings for sale!
 
still at it. in fact i just did axles this past weekend. here are the pics.
loosen lugs and spindle nut.
img3423yu.jpg

loosen crown and damper bolt/nut.
img3426j.jpg

once ball joint is loose and axle removed from hub this is how it looks.
img3425l.jpg

everything reinstalled, minus spindle nut and crown nut.
img3424h.jpg

this image shows how i had to seperate ball joint. place and raise jack on lower control arm. place wrench between lower control arm and hub. release pressure from jack. if wrench, or piece of all thread in my case, is not ground at this point, step on assembly. it should seperate the ball joint. ( disclaimer: i in no way endorse this method as OSHA safe.)
img3429h.jpg

just another view of the last image.
img3428g.jpg


oh yeah, replace cotter pin on lower ball joint, torque everything down, buy tranny fluid and replace axle seals
 
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