B18b into 2000 hatch - Not running right! PLEASE help! WATCH VIDEO

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EKB18B1

New Member
Please help! Just finished a swap of a B18b from a 1996 integra into a 2000 Civic hatch.

-The civic had a d16y7 non-Vtec before.
-Were using the d16 harness on the B18b. The B18b is OBD2a, harness is OBD2b
-BTW, we are running it with a OBD1 integra B18b ECU (OBD2b to OBD1 conversion harness)
We did the 3-wire to 2-wire IACV conversion, and did the same thing on the CKP sensor. As well as lengthened the Primary o2 sensor, and a couple others.

Start it up, it starts easily, but runs like crap. Sounds like its misfiring or not runing on all cyls. But I tried removing one spark plug wire at a time while running and it seems like each one made a difference, so that would make me believe all 4 are firing somewhat. It shakes quite a bit. Im just clueless I have no idea what to do or dont have any ideas...

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Got a CEL for #9 - CYP: Cylinder Sensor - P1381 (intermittent interruption), P1382 (no signal)

Tried putting a different distributor from my DD integra on it and it didnt really make any difference at all.

Check out the video. Its kinda shitty but all I could get. Just click on it to play.
 
have you made sure all your plugs and injectors are firing other than just pulling one wire at a time
 
whered you get the conversion harness from?
if a known working distributor didnt solve the problem, the problem must be in the wiring itself.
just for reference:
distributorbearing - hondalioness (has a couple diagrams of the distributor)

as far as the wiring, im trying to dig up some sort of a diagram
 
whered you get the conversion harness from?
if a known working distributor didnt solve the problem, the problem must be in the wiring itself.
just for reference:
distributorbearing - hondalioness (has a couple diagrams of the distributor)

as far as the wiring, im trying to dig up some sort of a diagram
as for wiring got a dizzy conversion from rywire.. plug and play also we tried using 2 different obd2b-obd1 conversion harness neither made a difference. we thought maybe it was ecu so we got my buddy with hondata s300 to hook it up and use his ecu we loaded stock rs map and still did the same thing... the weird thing is that it does run or sputter like this when we tried putting stock d16 ecu in it and it would idle with lil throttle it ran great no sputter or anything which is totally weird
 
You have eliminated the dizzy so lets move on. Check cam timing and make sure it is on and that timing did not jump. Check to make sure that you have hooked up all your spark plug wires correctly. I will check Mitchel tomorrow for diag on the codes you have. Are the codes take off a OBD1 or OBD2 ecu??
 
You have eliminated the dizzy so lets move on. Check cam timing and make sure it is on and that timing did not jump. Check to make sure that you have hooked up all your spark plug wires correctly. I will check Mitchel tomorrow for diag on the codes you have. Are the codes take off a OBD1 or OBD2 ecu??

timing is fine due to few days earlier i drove the teg into the garage to pull motor(ran 100%. never changed timing what so ever.)... runs almost perfect on the obd2b stock d16y7 ecu... doesnt shake or pop at idle or reving....the cyp code 9 is from the obd1 integra ecu.
 
I hope you didn't confuse the iat plug for something else, make sure your tps and map sensor plugs are correct.
 
nope never confused them swapped a d16y8 harness on which is pretty much plug and play..... and at first it ran better for about 5-10 mins but then started to run like shit again....throwing
cel
10- IAT - intake air temperature sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
 
Update:

bought a new d16y8 Si harness (The y8's are supposed to be a lot easier to use... basically plug and play, not much cutting and saudering).
So we hooked it up, start it, and at first it sounded quite a bit better than before. So we shut it off, and a while later started it a few more times. Once it ran for a little bit it just went right back to doing exactly what it did before... shakes, sputters, and wont rev up. It wont really idle anymore either, unless you give it a hair of gas. This time, with the new engine harness, it threw 3 different codes:

IAT - intake air temp. (I think thers 2 different IAT sensors. 1 on the air box pipe, and one on the intake manifold. We dont have either hooked up yet. But that shouldnt make it run how it does?)

IACV - Idle air control valve. I have no idea why the hell it would throw this. It never threw this code with the other engine harness, and it didnt in the integra when we pulled it out a few weeks ago.

CKP - Crank position sensor. There is 1 down near the crank pulley, but we have not hooked that one up either yet. I thought obd1's didnt look for a crank position sensor??

And, our obd2 to 1 conversion harness is fine, because we tested another one of a buddies that he had, does the exact same thing.

A year ago, we put a obd2b (2000 SiR) B16 into buddies obd2a (1998 Si) car. Which is basically the same thing were doing here, right, just the opposite. Were putting a obd2a motor into a obd2b car. That was a obd2b into obd2a. But his worked just fine. Anyways, we hooked up the obd1 b18b ecu into his car, with a obd2a to 1 conversion harness. And it ran the car PERFECTLY fine. I just dont understand.
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All codes are gone except IACV code. It never threw the IACV with the y7 harness but does now with the y8 harness. Even on the D-series ECU. We havent touched the y8 harness other than extending the primary o2 sensor.
 
im guessing you did the 3 > 2 wire IACV on the new harness too?
is the IACV known to be in good working order, and have you cleaned it?
 
im guessing you did the 3 > 2 wire IACV on the new harness too?
is the IACV known to be in good working order, and have you cleaned it?
on y8 its 2 wire already thats why we switched harness no need to convert... we have swapped iacv still got the same prob.
 
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