Cam cap delimma

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Jared759

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The cam cap that is where the cam seal is on my PR3 head is broken. I read that cam caps are engine specific and its better off to buy a new head. I've also read that its fine to use another cam cap as long as its from the same type head. Anyone had any experience with this?
 
I would try to call honda and ask someone. I dont think the cam seal cap would be that much of an issue. Now if it was for the camshaft you may run into an issue. But when you purchase a cam seal you just get one for the motor and it is not broken down by the vin #. Im not 100% on this so if someone knows for sure please correct me.
 
Just order a new one. You don't need a new head!
 
You don't need a new head but you can't just buy one and slap it on. You will need a machine shop to line hone it to your head.
 
You don't need a new head but you can't just buy one and slap it on. You will need a machine shop to line hone it to your head.

Yea thats what I thought. Might as well buy another head, figure with paying the machine shop to line hone it I'd be about in the same situation money wise. All I need is a bare pr3 head with caps and valves.
 
You don't need a new head but you can't just buy one and slap it on. You will need a machine shop to line hone it to your head.

Really? I would think the factory tolerance is good enough where a new replacement will suite just fine.
 
Yea thats what I thought. Might as well buy another head, figure with paying the machine shop to line hone it I'd be about in the same situation money wise. All I need is a bare pr3 head with caps and valves.

Line hone isn't going to be too much. It's just the other stuff that starts to add up. Like time to pull the head off, new head gasket, new headbolts (i would go with ARP studs). Then there's also the "while i'm there" stuff like water pump, timing belt, getting the head ported, ect... It adds up real fast.

IMO, getting all the extra stuff done would be about as much as finding another head but in the end you end up with new parts, port job, valve angle job, ect.

Really? I would think the factory tolerance is good enough where a new replacement will suite just fine.
You would think so since there's no bearings but they are like crankshaft main bearing caps.
 
I've found a guy who has a complete b16a longblock for $500. I've been wanting to snatch up another block for a while now and start my turbo build, I figured I'd use this as an excuse to get the ball rolling.
 
Really? I would think the factory tolerance is good enough where a new replacement will suite just fine.
I would buy the part, pull the cam, install the part and go with a teloscoping guage and mic it - comparing clearance to the other cam. If it ain't broke, no need to fix it. Also could use some plastigauge.

Just thinking - depends upon the engine too. If it's a screamer then I'd use a bit more care than a DD.

Not taking a shot at you B16RacerN2NR. Maybe what you suggest is the norm for a Honda head - I don't know.
 
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I would buy the part, pull the cam, install the part and go with a teloscoping guage and mic it - comparing clearance to the other cam. If it ain't broke, no need to fix it. Also could use some plastigauge.

Just thinking - depends upon the engine too. If it's a screamer then I'd use a bit more care than a DD.

Not taking a shot at you B16RacerN2NR. Maybe what you suggest is the norm for a Honda head - I don't know.

The last chapter with that machine shop would be in small claims court - the head was dropped.
The thing is, the clearances aren't the only thing that matters.

Picture having 2 cubes with the same size hole through each one. Then you break each one so you have two pieces with half circles in them. Then try mixing the pieces up and see how good they line up. The clearances may be the same since they had the same size holes but their mating surfaces can be completely different.

That was the best my imagination could do right now... lol. Hope it makes sense lol.
 
The thing is, the clearances aren't the only thing that matters.

Picture having 2 cubes with the same size hole through each one. Then you break each one so you have two pieces with half circles in them. Then try mixing the pieces up and see how good they line up. The clearances may be the same since they had the same size holes but their mating surfaces can be completely different.

That was the best my imagination could do right now... lol. Hope it makes sense lol.
Get the part, have machine shop check the fit and correct any issues. B16RacerN2NR is spot on.

Makes perfect sense to me. I did my first rod to crank lap job back in the 60's on the Briggs & Stratton engine on my mini-bike. Built so many engines after that I lost count years ago. Lots of 2 strokes, a couple of automotive, motorcycles, racing karts and Radio Control models - fixed wing aircraft and racing hydroplanes.

In the early days, I didn't have money for machine shop time - so I learned to improvise. ;)
 
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