Tuning Advice

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GlassHeadlights

West West Yall
Background:

1st gen JDM B16A all stock (10.2:1 CR vs. 10.4:1 CR gen 2)
compression test showed about 237 PSI perfectly across
3" short ram intake
cheap 4-2-1 Megan header (slightly crushed just recently)
2 1/4" straight pipe w/Magnaflow 2 1/2" muffler
converted to OBD1 w/chipped P06 running P30 basemap (untouched)
high mileage original 02 sensor and injectors off D16Z6 junk yard car
new NGK platinum plugs and new distributor (timing dead set at +16 TDC) (plugs are perfect color, look mint)
A1 LS transmission
TPS is temperamental, once a day it gets a dead spot but goes back to normal

The car doesn't like cold starts, its been better as the weather got warmer but doesn't turn over nicely. It does a few revolutions then each cylinder slowly fires one by one then it catches on and idles fine, sputters a little bit when cold. Its hard to drive when cold, sputters more until I get the RPMs over 2.5-3k. Idles very smoothly and evenly after warmed up at 800 RPM ish (tach signal is wack). It will rev up smoothly and VTEC engages strong almost all the time but its never pulled hard a day in its life. Feels like it would put down 120 WHP. I don't blame it on the long geared transmission because even in 1st gear it just revvs really high and makes lots of noise but feels very restricted. Matts stock D16A6 is more playful and torquey. I've played with a few different Honda motors and you can hear them trying their hardest when wide open and mine feels blahhh. Runs out of power at high speeds with VTEC engaged. Most people tell me they smell too much gas in the exhaust fumes, I smell it some times. Doesn't smoke, only get a little black/blueish between 7-8K.

If I had a datalogging cable could I plug it in to a laptop and see what the ECU is doing with CROME or Uberdata? (Have both programs on a disc) Or do I need to invest in a wideband and Hondata conversion?
 
you need to get it on a dyno to check your rpm range and also check the timing to make sure you aren't 180 off.
 
Tps can cause you to run super rich.

How much oil is the engine burning?

I had a 150whp b16 in a integra with a ls tranny and I thought it was quick. Torquey......hell no that b16 was a gutless geo untill it reved up to about 6k rpm then it would want to keeep going and going. You probaby just need a good tune. Btw what fuel are you using? We get 91 ron+mon here you should at minimum be at that.
 
you need to get it on a dyno to check your rpm range and also check the timing to make sure you aren't 180 off.
You mean a cam off 180? Never really delt with DOHC motors until now.
Replace TPS and take it from there.
Found out I frayed the red main signal wire from hooking a volt meter up to it so many times, could be issue. Will be fixed anyway.
Tps can cause you to run super rich.

How much oil is the engine burning?

I had a 150whp b16 in a integra with a ls tranny and I thought it was quick. Torquey......hell no that b16 was a gutless geo untill it reved up to about 6k rpm then it would want to keeep going and going. You probaby just need a good tune. Btw what fuel are you using? We get 91 ron+mon here you should at minimum be at that.

I just checked plugs again and they're white, not golden/brownish like I thought. Lean? I've gone a little over 2000 KMS (1240 miles) on this oil change, put my first liter in yesterday. I talked to the only tuner on the island and he said my D16Z6 injectors are probably too small and I need something like LS/GSR injectors then tune. I drove a '93 GSR with a short YS1 trans today, felt really good compared to mine so there's more ballz to be had. And 91 oct everytime, never the same gas station if it matters.
 
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Single cam and duel cam injectors are going to be the same injectors...hell type r injectors are still 240cc injectors. I'm.almost sure your tune or ignition timing is going to be off. The center electrode should have a nce tan pink color to it.

White plugs can mean a blown headgasket, too lean, or incorrect heat range plugs you should be runing ngk bkr6egp plugs number 7092 if I remember correct
 
Timing is set to the middle red mark on the crank pulley like this: l l l

How could the tune be out? The chip I got is a stock replacement B16 P30 with knock disabled from Xenocron.

I made a cold start video and took pictures of the plugs right after. The effing thing backfired through the intake!! And you can see it bogs hard in the low RPMS, but after 2-3 minutes of running it cleans up.

YouTube - ‪B16A Cold Start Studder‬‏

Plugs in order from timing belt to dizzy.

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A sensor could be phuked up. What about CEL codes? Have you tried to dump the computer memory? (disconnect negative battery terminal for a minute or two)

Maybe the O2 sensor is causing it to go all over the place.

EDIT: I just listened to it - has all the symptoms of weak ignition. Check battery voltage and charge condition from alternator. If ok, tear into dizzy.

If it's weak ignition it'll drive ya nuts. EDIT 2: Plugs look awful clean - maybe wait in dizzy till you check voltage of battery with it running.

Also check fuel pressure - fuel filter - fuel flow.
 
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A sensor could be phuked up. What about CEL codes? Have you tried to dump the computer memory? (disconnect negative battery terminal for a minute or two)

Maybe the O2 sensor is causing it to go all over the place.

EDIT: I just listened to it - has all the symptoms of weak ignition. Check battery voltage and charge condition from alternator. If ok, tear into dizzy.

If it's weak ignition it'll drive ya nuts.

Also check fuel pressure - fuel filter - fuel flow.

I thought fuel pressure too. I think stock our cars are 51psi, not the low 40psi of other models. I had a pressure problem when I first swapped my car. I gained like 6-7 psi from replacing the filter :ph34r:. It was really bad. Car would barely start. When you gassed it would just stall most times as soon as you let off. It idled ok though. Smelled like gas really bad, so at first I didn't think that was the problem at all. Is your gas tank starting to get rusty? You might even have some rust in the screen around the pump restricting it.
 
How old are those phuking Spark Plugs? Replace immediately! Gawddamm!!!

The top caps on those look like they may have came out of a 1953 DeSoto. :)

What condition are the plug wires in?

Oh, and when you replace the plugs put some permatex anti-sieze on the threads. Always use on spark plugs - especially with aluminum head. Torque should be ~13 ft. lbs.
 
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I get TPS code like once a week. I stuffed the frayed wire for the TPS signal together when I got the code today and stopped code and throttle responce was much better.

My mechanic said the temp sensor in the head might be throwing a bad signal and it can't read proper temp until warmed. I think 02 could be old and worn too. Plug wires are origional Honda. Plugs were new with swap, I checked gap ( even though I shouldn't need to with Platinums) and all were .40-.43 can't remember. I also thought of weak spark but I made a solid temp wire from the battery direct to dist and no change. I changed the igniter and coil for spare good Honda ones and no change.

Fuel filter was new when I got the car 20,000 kms ago but couldn't hurt to test PSI. Fuel tank should be clean but dont know for sure. It's dented from my crash way back but none of the 4 motors I had in there acted up like this one.
 
Triple post....

I just started using 91 oct with this motor only. Could it have cleaned the gunk out of the tank and clogged shit up?
 
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Triple post....

I just started using 91 oct with this motor only. Could it have cleaned the gunk out of the tank and clogged shit up?

Yes it could be cleaning agent results. Or, one simple dirty tank of gas and your filter is toast - the injected cars circulate fuel which filters it over and over. One dirty tank full of gas and the filter can be clogged.

The problem could be caused by a myriad of things - ya just have to start eliminating them.Yeah, I'm thinking a faulty sensor reading - maybe not enough to throw codes or fuel delivery. The plugs are dry looking - lean looking and the motor limps like it's lean or has a weak spark. But, weak spark will genarally leave plugs wet or fouled or black looking.

May not be one thing - could be the cumulative effects of multiple issues.
 
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I agree with a bunch of little issues. Like I don't mind buying a fuel filter, plug wires and an 02 sensor cause they're maintenance anyway.

I've been thinking and maybe I just think my car is slow because recently I've beat a FC RX7, '99 B16 coupe and a DA Integra. Got beat by a V6 Altima though...but like Magana said my B16 is slow to pick up but after 5500 RPMS (VTEC) it just won't stop pulling. :)

After playing with the TPS wire the car didn't bog out on this mornings cold start. lol I fail. I plan to go in for a tune soon.
 
I get TPS code like once a week. I stuffed the frayed wire for the TPS signal together when I got the code today and stopped code and throttle responce was much better.

uhhhh....sounds like you didn't really need a thread to figure out what was wrong. probably should have started with the EXACT problem the car already told you it was having. ^_^
 
:cool:
uhhhh....sounds like you didn't really need a thread to figure out what was wrong. probably should have started with the EXACT problem the car already told you it was having. ^_^
He just needed us to slap him around a little to get motivated enough to do it! :cool:
 
Guess I was wrong with the cold start, did it again after a 4 hour cool down. But the throttle is definitely fixed.

If the 02 was bad it would trip its self out and pull a code correct?
 
why not just fix said frayed wires to completely eliminate that as a problem? the car may not always throw a code for a problem, and the TPS can cause some weird things to happen. c'mon, n00b!
 
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