97 integra, where should i start.....

[justmaleo]

sup peoples, the new proud owner of a 97 4 door white integra(db7?) i believe the code is db7...... anyway , the dude i bought it from was driving in 5th and for some reason down shifted to 2 next thing that happened, the car just went dead....... the car cranks but wont turn on..... Where should i start in checking to see what it is,....?...

if i can get the car rolling, that would be great and give me more time and money to do a swap or bulid that b18b.... i do have my main vehicle so im good on a car....

And a couple of q's while im typing seen some b16 blocks for cheap, does the years matter and if so what year motors i should look into.....if considering a swap.... Thanks people for reading...

 

[FLounder]

well im sure he over-revved the motor, probably bent some valves at least. it might just be in the head since you say the motor still turns over. first thing i would do is a compression test. might be a good excuse to put a vtec head on there, or just do a swap. probably the best bang for the buck swap is a GSR motor.

 

[justmaleo]

i dont know for some reason im not a fan of the gsr........ 3000 for the motor, but its definitely a direct drop.... but 3000...

 

[B16RacerN2NR]

GSR motors are $1800... you're getting ripped off if you're paying $3000 for the motor.

 

[justmaleo]

so you just saying get the engine only......... or that price you gave me is for the full swap......... ganna head tomorrow to see if autozone has the compression thing so i can try and test it....... never done that before ever ...........

 

[justmaleo]

hows your fraankenstein MdpsEG?

 

[B16RacerN2NR]

i dont know for some reason im not a fan of the gsr........ 3000 for the motor, but its definitely a direct drop.... but 3000...

so you just saying get the engine only......... or that price you gave me is for the full swap......... ganna head tomorrow to see if autozone has the compression thing so i can try and test it....... never done that before ever ...........

Well you said $3000 for the motor so I assumed that's what you were being quoted for motor only. The B18C1 is a GREAT engine, why aren't you a fan of it?

 

[justmaleo]

ok... the price for the full swap ive been seeing is 2900...... just seen the block with head for 1700 1800.......
Not a fan cause of the full swap price... think the h22 will cost me that much(after engine trans ecu axles mounts etc) and will have more power...........

Now ive been reseaching tonight on buying a B16... now i know less torque but more hp but will be a vtec and definitely a more reliable motor......
ive been reading how at start i will get taken but i will catch up when that vtec kicks in, but it will be with the ls trans.....
I also couldnt find if i do consider the B16 , what year does the B16 have to be in order to work properly wit my year tegra.... im really doing some searching so i hope no one tells me to use the search engine...lol..

 

[FLounder]

b16s are pretty gutless and it will really be a dog with the LS transmission in a heavy 4 door integra. i would highly recommend not doing that.

you could consider putting a b16a or b18c head on your LS block, with a tune and basic boltons it should make about the same power as a stock gsr motor. if you want to make real power on a LS or b20 bottom end, you will need to build the motor. rebuilding it with nice pistons and rods and putting a vtec head on there should run you less than $3k, and would certainly have potential for 200whp.

you were asking about my b20vtec setup.... well, it makes a lot of power, torquey as hell for a honda, but it wasnt cheap to build the motor top to bottom. Then i cracked the stock sleeves after switching from a supercharger to turbo. just spent $1300 on sleeving the block so i wont have any more troubles. unfortunately it costs money to go fast

really you need to think of what your eventual goal for the car is... do you just want a quick car thats reliable yet fun to drive? or are you serious about going fast? do you want boost in the future? there are a lot of directoins you could go at this point.

 

[justmaleo]

Naa, I just would like the most reliable setup but definitely need it to be a little quick so it can be fun to drive......
Just came from the autozone and they have the compression test toll that I can borrow but as I was reading ,I need to get the engine at operating temperature to do the check and the car ain't ganna start. Should I just go ahead and do the test....???????

 

[FLounder]

yes you can test cold... the readings will be little lower than it would be at operating temp, but it will still give you the informatoin you need.

 

[justmaleo]

Bet will do tomorrow , I appreciate the responses people, ill hit the page as soon as I do it....

 

[justmaleo]

ight, did the compression test and only got one reading off cyclinder one and it was 30.....lol,..... ive never done this test before but read the haynes manual also looked at a couple of websites...... and those are my results....... my mission is just to have some kind of idea of whats wrong wit the whip before i have a shop look at it, dont trust this mechanics out here in this new state i live.........another thing i did notice , is the oil..... man, when i check the dip stick the oil is amazingly passed the 2 holes, i mean like 3 inches away from the top hole......

 

[FLounder]

well the oil is high because there is coolant in it. best case scenario is the headgasket is blown out, letting compression out and coolant in. at this point you really have to pull the head off to see what happened. the whole engine might be toast, or maybe its just a $90 headgasket. its hard to say until you see. i suggest that since you have a manual, you should just remove the head yourself and take a look. it will be a good learning experience and you really cant screw anything up. a messed up LS motor isnt worth much anyways. good luck.

 

[justmaleo]

ight, had an hour down time and decided to pull the valve cover off and half of the timing belt cover..... first thing i noticed was a lot of plastic shaving, alot...looks as it the back of timimg cover behind the cam gears was touching.... 2 was a piece of what seems to be a belt of some sort. i took a pic ganna see if i can post..3 the timing belt seems to me a little little loose, i think i can slide it off with out getting to the tension bolt.. i took a pic.. 4th the marks on the cam gears looed off to me , i took a pic... and last, i decided to check and read codes and got 5 long 4 short and repeats,..... im looking at the manual right now as we speak to determine what that is..... tomorrow being sunday i think im ganna take several hour to try and ajust timing.... let me know if ya feel like i would be wasting my time...... thanks...

 

[justmaleo]

how you post pic... .. on my facebook, if ya got a sec to look....

 

[justmaleo]

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[justmaleo]

Ight, got the head off and about to take to the machine shop and have it checked...... Now is there anyway to tell if the rings are bad pistons???? The car has over 196,000 on it.. should have this thing rebuilt?

 

[integraboomer]

I have an ls/vtec in my 97 teg. The bottom is a b18b with a b16 pr3 head (obd1) it is realiable ecu converted to obd1. If you do the ls/vtec don't cheap out on the tranny. Mine has the ls tranny and it is so slow. I went from a gsr with high miles to this and I can feel this has alot more power than my last car but the gears are just too slow! Plus my gsr had LSD but I do like my ls/vtec setup alot better!

 

[josh_crewdson@y]

im thinkin slipped belt, it doesnt take much slack for it to happen.
you should have set everything back tdc, slapped the belt on and seen if she started..