Pissing me off? Do I have bent valves if???

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OMLJA0512

New Member
So i have a D15B2 on my 1989 hatchback, 4 speed M/T, when i got the car it knocked so i thought i was screwed. did some research and it was loose rockers. tightened them, but stilled knocked, tightend them again and it stopped, but it would hardly advance any when i gave it some gas on 3rd, fourth wouldnt even move anywhere but i did notice like a hauling sound from the engine and when i would brake to come to a stop the car would turn off. i asked around and found out i had over tightened the rockers(the part where it meets the valve) so i loosened them and it knocked again. So i was like its better than having it turn off and not advancing. well it still turned off but i got some acceleration going. the knocking got to loud so i tightened the rockers again but was really carefull not to over tighten them.....

Conclusion: Stopped knocking accelerates in 3rd, not much in 4th but it still turns off on me.

Can any one help me out? Do i have some bent valves or what might be wrong?


Thanks a million, im just getting pretty tired of this crap. and i dont have money for a great swap that i would love to get.
 
You need to invest in torque wrench. Just set everything to spec and adjust the valves. Well.. sounds like you should get them adjusted by someone else really.
 
You need to invest in torque wrench. Just set everything to spec and adjust the valves. Well.. sounds like you should get them adjusted by someone else really.
i dont think they have a set torquee ones on my car have like a screw in the middle of a bolt and thats what tightens the gap so it wont knock but is you screw it in to much it pushes down on the valve. i gave it just another .25 of a turn when i felt it touch the valve. didnt think it would do any damage. And i live on a tight budget so i cant really afford to pay someone.
 
first you need feeler gauges for the size of gap you need. second you need specs for the gap. third you need flat screwdriver and 12 mm wrench depending on nut size. what you do is find out if your gap is to wide or to tight.<< close. intake has one gap size exhaust has a diff gap size. what you do is loosen the nut and turn the screwdriver until you have a slight drag on feeler gauge. not so tight you cant move it and not so loose it does not touch. once you get it to the right gap you hold the screwdriver and tighten the nut. making sure you do not move the screwdriver when doing it. recheck your gap to make sure it did not move. then do it for all cylinders. make sure you do the proper cylinder in order. << again spec sheet NEEDED. if to complicated you pay someone who knows what they are doing.
 
first you need feeler gauges for the size of gap you need. second you need specs for the gap. third you need flat screwdriver and 12 mm wrench depending on nut size. what you do is find out if your gap is to wide or to tight.<< close. intake has one gap size exhaust has a diff gap size. what you do is loosen the nut and turn the screwdriver until you have a slight drag on feeler gauge. not so tight you cant move it and not so loose it does not touch. once you get it to the right gap you hold the screwdriver and tighten the nut. making sure you do not move the screwdriver when doing it. recheck your gap to make sure it did not move. then do it for all cylinders. make sure you do the proper cylinder in order. << again spec sheet NEEDED. if to complicated you pay someone who knows what they are doing.
Its a little to late for that. I did all that with out the proper specifications you mentioned and i stopped the knocking, but now if i dont let the engine warm up enough and i drive it, it will turn off on me when coming to a stop it will do that for a while then it stays on. also around 5 to 10 minutes after driving the check engine light comes on, im guessing its the oxygen sensor since its not burning the fuel right or something.
 
I don't even think Jesus Christ could do a valve adjustment without feeler gauges :facepalm:
I dont appreciate you dissing Jesus Christ, he is the only one in this world that nothing is impossible for, and in this case with or without any tools or anything else. So if you have nothing nice to say about him, please dont mention him at all.
 
Its a little to late for that. I did all that with out the proper specifications you mentioned and i stopped the knocking, but now if i dont let the engine warm up enough and i drive it, it will turn off on me when coming to a stop it will do that for a while then it stays on. also around 5 to 10 minutes after driving the check engine light comes on, im guessing its the oxygen sensor since its not burning the fuel right or something.

Yea u did it without the proper specifications and probably got so Damn lucky that u didn't royalie Fuck ur engine.
 
I dont appreciate you dissing Jesus Christ, he is the only one in this world that nothing is impossible for, and in this case with or without any tools or anything else. So if you have nothing nice to say about him, please dont mention him at all.

do yourself a favor and just pick up a haynes or chilton manual if u cant take a joke
 
Yeah i figured thats what happenend. So any ideas on what i Did manage to F**k up

well first did you find out what the engine code is. could be ur problem. oxygen sensor wont make ur car cut off. also what does it idle at. also for the haynes manual u can find it at most part stores.
 
I can take jokes, just dont include him in them. and can i find those manuals at the local auto parts store?

Chill out buddy. The joke was more on you than on Jesus. I'm a church-goer myself, but I don't have a problem laughing at what was said here.

Anyway, yes, you should be able to find a manual at your local parts store. If not, they can probably order it for you. And if they can't, Ebay or Amazon will have it, and probably for cheaper. Maybe you should just start there...
 
well first did you find out what the engine code is. could be ur problem. oxygen sensor wont make ur car cut off. also what does it idle at. also for the haynes manual u can find it at most part stores.
No, i took it to autozone and they told me that that car had to be 1990 and above for them to be able to hook it up. I told the guy the 1990 and 1991 were the same as this one but he insisted so i left. I'm going to try again today see what they say, if not im going to have to look else where.

Yeah i figured Oxygen censors would not do that but wasnt sure. I dont really know what it idles at, i have no RPM gauge(just my luck). but when i turn it on and it has been sitting for a while, it fluctuates and goes all the way down to where it sounds like its going to turn off and then it goes to a steady pace again, and so on.

also i think my throttle is getting stuck because most of the time it revs up really high that i have to pull on the pedal with my foot for it to go down to normal. to the point that i dont even have to press the gas and just shift up
 
Chill out buddy. The joke was more on you than on Jesus. I'm a church-goer myself, but I don't have a problem laughing at what was said here.

Anyway, yes, you should be able to find a manual at your local parts store. If not, they can probably order it for you. And if they can't, Ebay or Amazon will have it, and probably for cheaper. Maybe you should just start there...
i guess we started off wrong. Sorry. alright thanks i appreciate you still posting after i gave you shit. im going to check it out right now.
 
rio grande valley is the shit of the earth

adjusting valves isnt rocket science but I think you should take it to a mechanic, this is over your head, sorry.

the jesus joke was pretty hilarious too, relax a little bit. jesus is so awesome he could adjust valves on a rotary
 
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rio grande valley is the shit of the earth

adjusting valves isnt rocket science but I think you should take it to a mechanic, this is over your head, sorry.

the jesus joke was pretty hilarious too, relax a little bit. jesus is so awesome he could adjust valves on a rotary
if you gonna comment please read the previous posts. I Believe I already stated the adjusting valves part was done, I believe I also stated I was tight on cash so I am going to be doing the fixing myself if possible, if not then Im going to have to live with a messed up engine till I can afford a B18 Swap. Alot of the mechanics is a little over my head but im not affraid to get dirty if told how to do it my self. And what makes the place where you live so special? I'm Sorry to every one who is just trying to help but im just tired of dealing with the car and just want to fix it ASAP.
 
You stated you blindly adjusted the valves; which means they're probably incorrectly gapped. OE is .006in/.008in IIRC for the B16. Most people just go +/- .001 from those specs and that difference is VERY hard to see with your eyes or feel with your hands, so you need to use a feeler gauge.
 
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